Ryan

Yeah, I think it'd be cool to be on the mountain for up to four days, considering I have nothing else to do. Of course, weather could put a damper on those plans, but it would be nice to be able to be out for that long. Sounds good though, thanks for the advice.

No idea how that happened...point is, 6 mil doesnt work on my 8 mil line. 5 mil does.

Alright- I need some feedback on our tentative itinerary for the Kautz Glacier in mid May. Our plan is to make the approach in to below the Turtle on the first day, set up camp, sleep, then the next day ascend from below the Turtle to Camp Hazard and set up camp there. We'll start our summit day from Camp Hazard, hopefully summit, and then back down to Camp Hazard and descend the Turtle and, depending on how we're feeling, either hike back to Paradise or camp another night. Any suggestions? Anyone who has done the route before, and if so, what was your itinerary? Thanks!

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CCH is based out of Laramie, Wyoming.

Most definitely the Sabretooths! I've used mine on everything- slushy or hard snow, low angle ice, steep ice, brittle ice, soft ice, mixed...they're amazing. Can't say I've used the Grivels, can't imagine that they'd be too much worse, but for me the Sabretooths are where it's at!

12 bucks for a Fusion?! WTF?! Where...how? I'll give you 15 for it!

Now I really feel like an outsider...not in the PNW, but I'm going to traverse a greater part of the Bridger Range north of Bozeman...23 miles of ridge! Mmmm...

Awesome, thanks!

Alright, cool...what diameter cordelette would you use for prussiking on an Ice Line? I'd be using the rope for glacier travel...would 5 be effective? 6 mil seems like it might be too big.

Alright- what would you all recommend then for ice climbing- the Ice Line or the Cobra?

NOLSe- do you have the Beal Ice Line? I'm considering getting it for a glacier/alpine rope. Also- anyone have any experience with the Beal Cobra (8.6mm)?

I'll also agree with the fact that even though the climb may be fatter than hell, do NOT get on it if the temperatures during the daytime are going to be even semi-warm. My partner and I headed out to do an ice climb in the Absoroka Range (southeast of Bozeman} the other day, and I was 10 feet from the top of the 200 foot flow when an 800 foot avalanche prone snow couloir above the flow cut loose on us, depositing WET snow right where we were on the flow. I nearly shit my pants- the avalanche lasted a solid five minutes, the snow just kept coming and coming. Better it be spaced out than all in one dump...but it was fucking terrifying. It was too warm of a day to be ice climbing, but we were enticed by the fact that this climb was FAT and had very good ice. Point being...good ice sometimes isn't worth it this time of year.

Ok, since we're on the topic, does anyone currently use the Beal Ice Line (8.1mm)? I'm considering getting one for glacier/ice/alpine climbing...what are your experiences with this rope, if any?

Good report...I don't view it as a failure in the least. Remember what Dr. Doom has to say- "Surviving is succeeding, standing on top a bonus." Good luck in the future!

Alright, cool. Sounds like hauling a tent along is worth it in the long run. We'll be climbing the route on a Monday/Tuesday, so if we do decide to stay at the Muir shelter I think we'd be able to get a spot. Thanks for the info!

Ok, I know that it is variable, but generally speaking, what are the temperatures on Rainier (Camp Muir, summit, etc), in mid-May? We're planning on doing the DC route then, and are deciding whether we should camp at Muir or Ingraham Flats (Muir would negate the need for a tent, Ingraham Flats would give us a head start, but we'd have to carry tents)...OR, can you get by at Ingraham Flats without a tent? Any and all info is much appreciated...

What it all comes down to is getting out and just diving right in. That doesn't mean go try to lead a hard route on shitty gear, but head out, find a line that looks doable, and see what happens. Placing pro beforehand (on the ground) helps a bit as well.

I've got the Z2, which has the toe loop on it. There's the Z1, which is basically the Z2 with no toe loop. The sole on mine are vibram, but are not the same tread as Dru's...a bit smoother, still works well for hiking around in the summer. Get a pair, they're awesome!

Haha, fucking gold! That's great- nice work!

Yeah, Amazon does have some pretty sweet deals on guidebooks, etc...I'll keep buying from them for sure.

Anasazi Velcros are the way to go! I dig 'em!

No finals for another 6 weeks for me...of course, it's not like they'll matter, I'm a lazyass and am only taking 13 credits, attending class only 3 days a week for four hours each day...plenty of time to climb!

Haha...I knew it! Fuckin sickos...

I've used mine in a variety of conditions, and as long as you keep the canister protected from the cold in some form and use some type of windscreen, it works well- unfortunately, the canisters don't last too long if you're using it quite a bit (in cold weather, for example).