Ryan

There's something with the BD screws where the diameter of the screw right at the tip of the screw is micrometers smaller than the rest of the diameter so there is very little resistance when placing the screw...just what I've been told.

Good issue, I love Alpinist!

Yeah, I saw the date, first time I've ever heard of this though. Too far fetched for me...

I would recommend this approach on hard trad routes that you have done before and know which piece needs to go where, etc. I've definitely racked my pro on draws before when I'm going for the redpoint on a climb that has shut me down before, usually due to the fact that I DID hang out too long to place pro. On bigger routes or routes that I have not climbed before, I'll rack like I usually do, with one biner on each cam, stoppers racked on an oval or two, and a few slings, spare biners, and draws.

Regardless of that...edible gear? Let's get real...

Dear lord...what has the world come to?

I am absolutely in love with my Aliens- I've got black, blue, yellow, red, purple, and white. Red and yellow are the ones that I use the most, and I have fallen on both my yellow and blue Aliens that had far less than ideal placements- both held. I've fallen on my white one as well. For me, Aliens are the easiest and quickest cams to place in smaller cracks...they work wonders. I have never used WC Zeros, so I really cannot state my opinion on them, but to me they look like they're not as durable as the Aliens...just an observation. At any rate, I'll be keeping Aliens on my rack for quite some time.

Sounds good- we don't have skis, so it looks like we'll be doing alot of slogging. Might not be worth our time, but we'll see how the conditions are when we get out there. Thanks very much for the info!

I absolutely love my Alien cams for finger sized crack climbing- haven't found a cam that places easier, plus they never walk. For larger sizes, BD is where it's at.

Cool, what does the North Face involve...rock, ice..?

Alright, sounds good. My partner and I would really like to get on Shuksan when we're out there, though- if the Chimneys are not in good condition, would a route like the Sulphide Glacier be a better option?

Eh...my friend bought a set of the Acme cams, and they were a far cry from the quality of BD, Alien, etc. They walked easier, and overall seemed kind of cheap...I have found the higher end cams to be much more user friendly, but that's not to say that the Acme cams are worthless. I'd say sack it up and buy the more expensive cams- just my two cents.

Too fuckin funny!

The Climbers Guide to Squamish by Kevin McLane

Anyone climbed the Fisher Chimneys on Shuksan in May? If so- how was it (snowpack, weather, route condition, etc)...?

Cool- I'm trying to find the balance between the two so I can use it on a route that requires both rock climbing travel. Thanks for the advice!

Ahh...I never would have thought of that, awesome idea! Thanks! And Alpinfox, thanks for the suggestions- I'm talking about it being the only rope that we'll "have" in the context of it being the only rope that we'll be carrying with us when we have to make approaches and haul the rope on longer routes where we may or may not end up belaying the whole thing. I have 2 60m 10.3mm single ropes that I'll have out there with me, but those will sit in the car unless we decide to go cragging.

I'm heading to Washington in May, and I plan on having only one double rope (probably a 60M 8.1mm Beal Ice Line) that we'll use on Rainier for glacier travel, and then on any other route we do- who would advise having a second rope along, or would just the one do for alot of the moderate routes in the range (West Ridge of Forbidden, for example)...what does everyone use normally?

If you're ambitious enough to ship them yourself, then Rock and Resole in Boulder does an awesome job.

I guess my experience was the exact opposite- the OP screw wobbled quite a bit, whereas the BD screw needed very little to get it started, allowing me to start grinding it in. It could be that I just need a bit more practice though...

Olympic, that is a good point. I'm all about speed, though, so that's why I'm sticking with BD. The grinder knob on the OP screws is nice to have, though. I'll hang on to the two I have for placements that don't need to be made pronto.

Captions for the pics would be very good...but other than that I loved it! Awesome job for sure!

Hmm...interesting. The one thing I do like about the OP screws are the fact that the hanger is pretty big compared to the BD screws. It makes it super easy to clip, but the claim that you can clip two biners into the hanger, although true, seems a bit fucked, becuase one of the biners ends up resting on the other one- doesn't seem too practical in my mind. I'll just stick with BD.

If any of you are in a fix for ice and have the patience (for the drive in), Hyalite is in great condition, and should stay that way for awhile I'd imagine. Climbed the Dribbles the other day and it was FAT. All the popular routes were looking good (Cleo's, Genesis, Mummy, etc). Snowpack is pretty good as well. The crux of the whole venture will more than likely be getting to the trailhead...the road is rutted, but if you have a sled, you're golden. Just thought I'd make all of you coastal people jealous!

Yeah, I hacked out a few holes and went for it, it helped a little bit, but when I'm sketching out way above my last screw on steep ice the last thing I need is that damn screw laughing in my face. They work alright once they're started- I must be too spoiled by how easy the BD screws are to use.