Ryan

Beautiful.

Certain people will always be assholes on the internet- it's far easier to flame someone when you're locked away in the security of your basement, typing away with a grin on your face. It's those people that have got the issues...IMHO. For the most part, though, this site seems pretty friendly.

Good TR- you mentioned a team from South Dakota? My buddies climbed Denali around that same time, all three were from Rapid City, SD, but only two summited...maybe you saw them? It's a small world...sounds like you guys had quite the experience though!

It's nice to have a hardcopy though.

Alpinist is an independant magazine, not run by a giant media corporation- their prices are going to be higher. The quality of Alpinist, in my opinion, is very much worth the 13 dollars. So- anyone out there with an Alpinist 0?

15 bucks for Alpinist 1? Anyone with an Alpinist 0?

Anyone have a copy of Alpinist 1 or 0 (or both) in decent shape that they'd be willing to sell?

Damn, sounds like they're really gettin after it!

I really like the BD Cobras for everything...mixed, waterfall ice, alpine...very nice set of tools, you should see if you rent those and try them out sometime.

Direct Exum on the Grand- long story short, we had a late start, got caught in weather, didn't know how to get off the route...that was in my first year of climbing.

Ahh, right, I can't think today. Snoboy's got it right...my bad.

There's something with the BD screws where the diameter of the screw right at the tip of the screw is micrometers smaller than the rest of the diameter so there is very little resistance when placing the screw...just what I've been told.

Good issue, I love Alpinist!

Yeah, I saw the date, first time I've ever heard of this though. Too far fetched for me...

I would recommend this approach on hard trad routes that you have done before and know which piece needs to go where, etc. I've definitely racked my pro on draws before when I'm going for the redpoint on a climb that has shut me down before, usually due to the fact that I DID hang out too long to place pro. On bigger routes or routes that I have not climbed before, I'll rack like I usually do, with one biner on each cam, stoppers racked on an oval or two, and a few slings, spare biners, and draws.

Regardless of that...edible gear? Let's get real...

Dear lord...what has the world come to?

I am absolutely in love with my Aliens- I've got black, blue, yellow, red, purple, and white. Red and yellow are the ones that I use the most, and I have fallen on both my yellow and blue Aliens that had far less than ideal placements- both held. I've fallen on my white one as well. For me, Aliens are the easiest and quickest cams to place in smaller cracks...they work wonders. I have never used WC Zeros, so I really cannot state my opinion on them, but to me they look like they're not as durable as the Aliens...just an observation. At any rate, I'll be keeping Aliens on my rack for quite some time.

Sounds good- we don't have skis, so it looks like we'll be doing alot of slogging. Might not be worth our time, but we'll see how the conditions are when we get out there. Thanks very much for the info!

I absolutely love my Alien cams for finger sized crack climbing- haven't found a cam that places easier, plus they never walk. For larger sizes, BD is where it's at.

Cool, what does the North Face involve...rock, ice..?

Alright, sounds good. My partner and I would really like to get on Shuksan when we're out there, though- if the Chimneys are not in good condition, would a route like the Sulphide Glacier be a better option?

Eh...my friend bought a set of the Acme cams, and they were a far cry from the quality of BD, Alien, etc. They walked easier, and overall seemed kind of cheap...I have found the higher end cams to be much more user friendly, but that's not to say that the Acme cams are worthless. I'd say sack it up and buy the more expensive cams- just my two cents.

Too fuckin funny!

The Climbers Guide to Squamish by Kevin McLane