Ryan

Anyone climbed the Fisher Chimneys on Shuksan in May? If so- how was it (snowpack, weather, route condition, etc)...?

Cool- I'm trying to find the balance between the two so I can use it on a route that requires both rock climbing travel. Thanks for the advice!

Ahh...I never would have thought of that, awesome idea! Thanks! And Alpinfox, thanks for the suggestions- I'm talking about it being the only rope that we'll "have" in the context of it being the only rope that we'll be carrying with us when we have to make approaches and haul the rope on longer routes where we may or may not end up belaying the whole thing. I have 2 60m 10.3mm single ropes that I'll have out there with me, but those will sit in the car unless we decide to go cragging.

I'm heading to Washington in May, and I plan on having only one double rope (probably a 60M 8.1mm Beal Ice Line) that we'll use on Rainier for glacier travel, and then on any other route we do- who would advise having a second rope along, or would just the one do for alot of the moderate routes in the range (West Ridge of Forbidden, for example)...what does everyone use normally?

If you're ambitious enough to ship them yourself, then Rock and Resole in Boulder does an awesome job.

I guess my experience was the exact opposite- the OP screw wobbled quite a bit, whereas the BD screw needed very little to get it started, allowing me to start grinding it in. It could be that I just need a bit more practice though...

Olympic, that is a good point. I'm all about speed, though, so that's why I'm sticking with BD. The grinder knob on the OP screws is nice to have, though. I'll hang on to the two I have for placements that don't need to be made pronto.

Captions for the pics would be very good...but other than that I loved it! Awesome job for sure!

Hmm...interesting. The one thing I do like about the OP screws are the fact that the hanger is pretty big compared to the BD screws. It makes it super easy to clip, but the claim that you can clip two biners into the hanger, although true, seems a bit fucked, becuase one of the biners ends up resting on the other one- doesn't seem too practical in my mind. I'll just stick with BD.

If any of you are in a fix for ice and have the patience (for the drive in), Hyalite is in great condition, and should stay that way for awhile I'd imagine. Climbed the Dribbles the other day and it was FAT. All the popular routes were looking good (Cleo's, Genesis, Mummy, etc). Snowpack is pretty good as well. The crux of the whole venture will more than likely be getting to the trailhead...the road is rutted, but if you have a sled, you're golden. Just thought I'd make all of you coastal people jealous!

Yeah, I hacked out a few holes and went for it, it helped a little bit, but when I'm sketching out way above my last screw on steep ice the last thing I need is that damn screw laughing in my face. They work alright once they're started- I must be too spoiled by how easy the BD screws are to use.

Is there anyone that actually likes these screws? I received two of them for Christmas, and upon using them, I've found that unless the ice is absolutely perfect (plastic and FAT) they are a bitch to place, provided you can even get them started. I used them in somewhat brittle ice, and all they did was fracture the ice in every direction around the attempted placement, causing the ice to plate off, leaving me frustrated. BD screws worked fine in the same ice. Any thoughts on OP screws?

Had my new skis stolen at Blackcomb a couple years ago. Pissed me right off.

I've used the B-52, ATC, and Reverso equal amounts, and now the only device I carry with me is the Reverso. It's so simple to use, and the autoblock option is nice for crevasse rescue situations- I know that the B-52 can autoblock, but the Reverso is just so easy.

Haha...nope, no relocating for me. My buddy, on the other hand, is heading out there next year. He was wondering about the proximity of ice.

I see...nothing too incredibly close then. Hyalite Canyon has spoiled me!

Awesome, thanks for the advice. I'll look into it.

Alright...a variety of routes that range from WI3-5 that are around 100-200 feet long and offer good ice for most of the winter months.

How far is the nearest quality ice climbing from Seattle?

Good point...any recommendations for moderate range alpine rock routes (up to 5.9)?

Thanks for the pointers...catbirdseat, our plan was to do the DC and Gib Ledges route and then come back down to Paradise and head over and take the White River approach (I believe that's the one?) to Liberty Ridge. Some of you are probably right though- this plan may be a bit too ambitious. If it were my call we'd head straight for Liberty Ridge, but the DC is the route that suits the majority's ability and ambition. Unfortunate. One of my partners is game for more technical routes, though, so we may look at scrapping any shot at Rainier altogether and doing some other peaks. Is the DC worth my time seeing as how it's the only route I can do with my friends and still get to the summit? I'm completely unfamiliar with the PNW, so any and all advice is appreciated.

There are four of us going, two of which have not had much mountain experience, but are experienced climbers. We'll be doing the DC route with them, and then they'll head down and my other partner and I plan to remain at Muir and climb the Gibralter Chute route after the DC route. Then, conditions permitting, we might go for Liberty Ridge seeing as how we'll have experienced the descent already. We plan on being in the Cascades for 2 full weeks, so that should give us enough time to tick off those routes...what do you all think?

Cool...would it be wise to reserve a permit for the month of May, or are there not enough climbers then to worry about it?

Good call, as always.

Excellent, thanks for the info guys...so let me get this straight then- besides the flat rate, there is a 20 dollar fee for each climb? Or does the 20 dollar fee cover the 2 weeks that it mentions, which means that I would be able to climb the 2 or 3 routes that I had planned? Thanks again!