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Everything posted by shapp
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I have used the next size below pink with good success in wierd placements in pods and overlaps around darrington area climbs
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Stay less at Crater and keep heading east. Some places in the eastern half of the state I like: Steens Mountain, Hart Mountain, Alvord Desert, Alvord Hotsprings, Haines Steakhouse, Anthony Lakes, Malheur Wildlife Refuge, Pine Mountain Observatory (space telescope), Leslie gulch, John Day fossil beds
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One reason to be super careful heading up to Squire Creek routes this year too, huge snow year, wet longer, could be more rock fall latter than expected.
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Various within striking distance of boise: Hells Canyon, take the route through Cambridge, Burnt River lime stone, Spring Mt. Oregon is within striking distance of Boise for a good weekend of shorter trad and sport, Slick Rock regular route is very fun, long and casual, Finger of Fate is pretty fun.
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Nah, I'm a trad climber which is a pretty tough proposition on most limestone. I was in Railay in '93 and I suspect it's still about the only time the locals have seen a full trad rack or someone trad climbing there (which mostly consists of slinging things and stacking stuff in pockets). A couple of them were pretty fascinated by it all so I was never wanting for partners. Me thinks you protest what you know not. Pre-conceived notions are often askew. I too am a primarily trad climber, Hells Canyon rocks! While there are ample “sport routes” there are also several mixed routes put up by VERT THE MAN that will put the pucker up your trad anus.
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Legally yes, morally no, when you see some of the other stuff that has been allowed. And the stick man cartoon, how could you in good conciense take that away from the public domain! that was soooo funny! Anyway, I still think you are hot, lets drink some beers and we'll see who plays the queen! post script: oops I just got the new terms and constions to check the box when I just logged in, and sextually oriented content is no longer allowed, so I guess the queen comment is now grounds for a spanking.
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Thank you I think? I am surprised that you didn't just do this in the first place, as access concerns are allways near the forefront of our climbing community.
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A recent thread on info about the status of access to the Coburg crags near Eugene was recently deleted, I suppose by the moderators, as it degenerated into a pissing match, although quite a funny one with cartoons and such. Anyway, It seams a waste to have deleted the entire thread as there was some good access info in the thread, could it not have been possible to delete the "offending" posts and leave the good info? The only valid censorship of ideas is the right of people not to listen (or to read). Now I suspose I will be banned for questioning the hand of god.
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So I had a look into my big Gray binder with all sorts of notes, scraps and topos of all things Oregon choss, and the crag is/was? owned by John Jaqua family (promient local attorney at one time, maybe now deceased). They used to or still do own a big farm accross the road a bit next to the river by the crag. I actually asked to get permisson to climb there in about 1993 or 1994, and they said no, I even offered to help maintain the trails and wooden stairs etc. out there, still no. Also there is a nest up on part of the crag routinely used by Osprey each year. My understanding is that the Nature Conservancy doesn't own the land with the crag, they own some grass land up above that is habitat for the fenders blue butterfly. Anyway, there are some good routes there that only a couple of guys, brothers, and you know who you are, have long term permission to climb there. The three times I visited, I poached it, getting caught the last time, I did ask permission before I tried the poaching. Getting caught wasn't too big of a scene, but I wouldn't recommend it. This was also about 15 years ago, last time I visited it.
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I did climb there a few times in the mid 1990s, there are good bolted and trad lines, but it is private and you will get busted poaching. It sure would be cool for the Access Fund to take up the issue. If it were public it would be a great resource.
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[TR] Hood - Misterium Tremendum Sandy Glacier Headwall solo 6/3/2011
shapp replied to YocumRidge's topic in Oregon Cascades
Clear evidence that if Red Dawn ever played out in real life you know the other side would win, we would all be drinking a lot more, speaking a differnet language, and rolling our "R"s. -
Bad ass mo fo! We climed Dilley's Delight last year and had a hard look at the line you climbed. Very striking route! too bad the crux is a few letters above my free climbing ability.
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The amazing google: http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/2010/03/squire-creek-wall-slab-daddy/ How you gonna climb 510+ slab for 23 pitches?
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Trip: east of cow town - the Boner Date: 5/21/2011 Trip Report: The world did not come to an end, however, it was wet on Saturday so we couldn't climb at the largest monolith in Oregon, so we went and scoped out another feature I long (pun intended) wanted to observe up close. The giant boner. I really wanted to post this pic on the Chineese electroncis spam post that was just deleted, but the mods got it first. Damn! Gear Notes: aiders and a few hooks would be needed! Approach Notes: 8.5 miles of gravel road and 15 minutes of hiking through the doug fir re-prod
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I consider Spring Mt. part of the greater D-town area, although the climbing is pretty different than at the Clear Creek or Squire creek areas.
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Spring Mountain - Rolling Thunder route, shoes?
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A line of coke makes the music work with it a lot better!
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bring the velcro gloves for the new sheep lover! Hey frank name these walls! Not Darrington, but it gets me excited!
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Oh shit beotch, nice tip, Kromona mines area then is what it probably is up SE of Spada (different drainage than Static). If it is, then the approach will keep most away.
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I guess Comb Buttress - second tooth area
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something other than Hood - SF Owyhee 4/16-23/2011
shapp replied to shapp's topic in Oregon Cascades
Cataraft, they are actually a much more stable and better choice for Class IV and up rapids of this sort than a regular self bailing raft. If doug would have been in a 12' raft instead of his 12' cat surfing that hole, he would have probably flipped for sure, as when a raft is in a hole surfing like that the front end dives into the upstream drop and flips easier, the open ended natureof a cat prevents this to a larger degree and if a front tube hits the back face of the drop it wills spin and buck and has a greater chance of staying upright. -
something other than Hood - SF Owyhee 4/16-23/2011
shapp replied to shapp's topic in Oregon Cascades
Kenny and Doug getting it done! [video:youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=picasacid&feature=player_embedded [video:youtube] -
fossilized ordovician walrus penis complete with intact nutsack - beautiful specimen. Update: I took the fossil to the Burke Gilman museum at UW. I finally got it back last week. The final conclusion by the experts is that it is a distal end of a left femur of a Camelid (extinct camel species), which could not be identified to the exact species. There are clear tooth gnaw marks on one end that are part of the fossil indicating something large either killed it or made dinner of Joe Camel after his demise from other causes. The fossil is between 2 to 7 million years old. Through the discovery of this fossil I learned that Camels evolved in North America, then dispersed to the rest of the world over land bridges, then went extinct in North Amerrica. There are several extinct species, the fossil I have is from one of the largr onnes that stood around 2.5 meters at the shoulder.
