shapp

To mean it means when I am in danger of actually hurting my self where I might actually need medical attention or loose a bunch of skin if I fall. Im not going to die, but I might get get bruised up, maybe need a stitch or two and generally not want to repeat the experience again after a fall. I also feel like I am actually on a run out when I start getting a bit nervious and a little scared. However, I am a pussy and this usually happens before I am actaully on a "runout" where I might actually get hurt, so I guess its a good evolutionary trait. What does "runout" mean to you. And in a big generalization, how far above a solid peice of A1 gear (bolt or trad I don't differntiate) with no potenial to deck or hit a ledge, do you start feeling the "runout" factor when climbing hard near your athletic limit.

Carry a normal rack, I bet you will climb harder and way faster with less weight Just think if you put in a piece on average every 6 to 7 feet, then get comfortably with putting in pieces say on average 10 to 12 feet. Bam you just lead the pitch way faster, took almost half the gear, second takes half the time to clean, it is a cascading huge effect. This has really got me thinking on what is actually a "runout". See new topic to continue.

you just can't fix stupid, I guess I should have never posted. Dude, I said it looks like the close bolts at this crag seam like a good idea. There are tons tons tons of places that have trad climbs stretching a full rope. I almost always climb with doubles these days due to long pitches we climb and the need to have 2 ropes to rap. On most long routes you aint taking enough gear to put in 24+ draws. Hell, I don't even own that many. Game over, looks like a cool place!

Being that 55 meters is close to 180 feet and if there is a bolt every 7 feet that would be 25 bolts. It would be reasonable on a trad climb if you were sewing it up to place a piece at your feet. Especially if you were on uncertain terrain. Not arguing the crag is overbolted, just wondering. There are a lot of 50 to 55 meter pitches in darrington on hard slab (not realy friendly to falling either), though solid rock, and the most pro/bolts you might have on a 55 meter pitch would be in the 15 to 17 range, and not really what I would call runout, minus the issue with falling on ledges/and big nobs fing you up on a fall, a bolt every 10 feet or so is not runout to me when climbing at my limit, is it to you? Again not trying to argue about bolts at this crag, yoru nitial reponse was great, the follow up implying the need to space bolts closely just because it is hard seams silly. On a hard climbyou place gear where you can and where you can get a good rest stance, not at your feet, for example it might be safer to power 10 or 12 feet and get to a good stance than to fiddle with gear at a poor stance. Obvioisly we could beat this subject to death, bottom line looks like a very cool area, close bolts spacing seams tomake a lot of sense there, can't wait to g. Ivan, is it time for you and I, and corvallisclimb had a circle jerk up there?

interesting, just curious how you get 24 or more draws needed for a 55 meter pitch? Is there aid involved on these? Now that I am a lot closer, I need to get up there an check it out.

Interestingly there is another inflatable Dam hydroproject on the South Fork Snoqualmie that no one gripes too much about and it works great.

One of the most amazing photos of a pinnacle I have ever seen let alone of the Turkey Os Baculum. I am wondering if my phalic reference offends Argetino Gaucho?

a. because a lot of my TRs are not posted as TR, but just posts, such as this one: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1015270/Re_something_other_than_Hood_S Upper owyhee at twice floodstage was weak sauce fo sho, will delete it shortly b. because I don't put out a lot of TRs c. you must be right, I haven't climbed anything d. you should be so lucky as to recieve gay porn in your gas tank cover from Capt. Frick. My post was mostly about the lack of exploration it seams as reflected in Oregon TRs on this site. Mountain Climbing used to be about exploration and discovery to a large degree, but it seams that 85% of Oregon has been forgotton for a very long time. I would love to read a TR from snow man Jim about skiing a coulier off the east side of Steens Mountain, or about putting up a hairball FA in the Menagerie, or about Dodd putting up the route on the twilight tower in Leslie Gulch, or about mr. abbes solo snowboard decent off the north face of strawberry mountain, or the first time a climber visited hells canyon lime stone, or some other such thing. Not that the Hood stuff isn't interesting, but its on the map, it has volumes written about it, which is why som many flock to it. I don't mean to diminish climbing on Hood but encourage others to seak the lesser visited mountains and report back on the wunders that they may find. Peace and good climbing.

Nice!

how many firsts are there? The rock fall that closed 1/3rd of the cliff shortly after I climbed limp dick. I don't know what year it was, but I did post about it on CC climbers about the shifting at the top of the dick but I can't seem to find it on the search

Thats cause the top part of Limp Dick that shifted on me is now gone dude, and wasn't there when you climbed it last summer!

I was actually on limp dick a few years ago just before the first closure/rock fall. I actually, put a cam up a the top and hung. I felt this weird sensation and looked up as the cam was expanding and the column shifting and immediately un-weighted the cam and free climbed up and off. Scared the beezus out of me.

Defenitely a great crack climbing area. The tounge and cheek poop jokes were directed at the draft guide book "report", not the actual crag which is pretty rad.

dam, great idea, dig babby dig, lets turn it into a 3 pitch crag

Actually, ohter than wanting to puke on myself for ready too many Hood TRs, I thought my post was fairly supportive of the OP -my be for you to come to me house to give me sexy times Kozak

Nice Pics and TR, BUT..... Routes change, with global warming, rock fall, variation in ice from year to year etc etc, mountaineering routes can be very different from on year to the next, in general much more so than pure rock. Do we really have to focus so much on who did exactly what when? And to the climbers actually posting a TR, is it that important to determine/focus on an FA? No it is just about getting out there and having a great climb. post edited to heal goucho and kazaks hurt ass.

Well, I ate this bran muffin before I realized we were out of TP, and making a mad rush for the throne, in advertantly grabbed the moolack report........

I would go check out Marys but I didn't learn how to climb road cuts in the gym yet, and we are going to need more gay porn, Captain Frick can you assist? I can however provide a Darrington Big Moss Raper for the boulders! I would however, give up to an OZ of the good stuff for the guide however, if that is still the going rate?

Well, roger me silly, another moolack website: http://climberscatalog.com/?cat=10 and a facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/moolackrockclimbing

Oh Snap! now PDub can get rich and retire. http://www.wix.com/ire510/moolackrockclimbing/apps/blog

They are there, several horizontal placements on P1, a few key TCU placements in pods on the upper part of P2, Not much additional on P3, A few placements on P4, especially if you take the slightly easier left hand version of around the crux P5, several placements from .5 to 2" or so, I can't believe you lead that pitch with no additional gear. When climbing this route, if you feal the next bolt is way far and it isn't 5.6 terrain, look hard, there is likely very good natural pro to be had, though you might have to garden a little to find it. To clarify, by way far, I mean 10 feet or less or so on harder terrain

Nice!, Note to the not-so-hard climbers (such as my self): Leading Other Side of the Tracks with only draws and no supplemental trad gear (epecially a few TCUs and regular cams up to about 2") may result in soiling of the pants!

Spionin - Post a TR and more photos, P1 FA of Tracks several years ago.

You gotta get yo self one of these bad boys for some long term moss raping!

Shout out to a friend Isaac and Bjornen Babcock, their nature special is on tomorrow night. Not climbing, but should be great. http://www.pbs.org/wnet/nature/episodes/river-of-no-return/introduction/7618/