shapp

chris, these are not "my routes". I am all for cutting a tree here or there and eating tasty animals though. Peace.

I also might add that in a way Chris, your previous work up there made it much more possible for the current routes to be done they way they were. Without the engineers route, putting up the Holy Grail would have been much more difficult I suspect. And the bolted 2x4s etc. on the approach slab, much different than trimming some trees? Again, all due respect, there are not many around of your fortitude Lots of folks think Hanold is crazy for the things he has done unropped, climbing hard slab unropped (or soloing while roped but with essentially no pro) is an entirely different type of scary shit.

Chris, we all totally respect the things you have done out there up the Squire. Although there are more bolts (and of larger size than you are accustomed to, I don't think many folks would call these "sport routes". And I don't see it as becoming a super duper popular place overrunn with folk. Most of the younger crowd are still mostly into pulling plastic and steep sport routes, and cuss like crazy climbing 5.10+ slab with mere 12' between fat bolts even though they can cruz 5.12 limestone. I personally cut the trail through the Cedars that you mention and spent a very long time doing it. I sincerely appolozie if this is personally upsetting. However, I garuantee they will be back shortly and the way will become hard again if left unattended. Thank you again for "crazy" inspiration. I think a larger portion of this wall will remain "wild" for a very very long time. Ps I miss the C&S website!

If shap can climb up the approach slab alone without a rope then anyone can, though I do like a hand line coming down, especially after some whiskey and a toke.

pretty much winter up on top right now were all the good long trad routes are ifin you are heading down there for a trip, I did some multipitch with tremendous knobs on rappel rock several years ago, would love to go back http://www.kgun9.com/news/local/134969423.html

keep me in mind, it is hard to find partners that are both good trad climbers and can row/paddle 4+ and have their own boats, and I am moving back to OR at the end of this year.

Do you mean lake creek, a trib to the West Fork Hood? If so, I can imigine kayaking it but not rafting? Where you put in for a raft decent?

I like sking into the Fuji Shelter. We once started at the gold lake shelter and tried to ski to fuji shelter from the east, instead of coming up the road from the west. The trail was not broke and was not obvious. It got dark before we reached the shelter, we didn't have a tent as we were going to bivy in the fuji shelter. We rigged up a haphazard shelter with a couple small ground tarps and hopped in our old bivy bags and sleeping bags just as it started to rain hard all night!. Luckily it wasn't that cold. We got wet, got up the next morning as soon as light, shelter was about 1/2 mile away. Temps dropped and it became a blizzard. Built a fire in the barrel stove in the fuji shelter and got all dried out, carved wooden spoons and drank Crown all day. Got up next morning after skies had cleard to ski Mt. Fuji. Topo map we had was not very good, there was a lot of rolling steep hills to navigate and the snow conditions were sketchy, so we turned back, packed up and skied out the road to the west down to the highway, temps rose again, snow was gone about 2 miles from the highway. we draged our sleds on the gravel out to the highway, then tried to hitch hike in the rain back up to our car at Gold Lake snow park. I hid in the woods with all the gear as my buddy thumbed it. Finally an old pickup truck stopped. The guy turned off his engine for some reason, and couldn't get it started again for about 20 minutes. Quite a time had by all. While working in the little minam in NE oregon in October, I hiked down from Moss springs and I was going to hike through up and out Dobbin Creek over the ridge into NF Catherine Creek in Late October for a bull trout spawning survey. My coworker brad dropped me off then was going to drive the 40 mile trip around to pick me up at the other end. It was about a 13 mile hike or so. About 2 miles in, it started to snow, about 3 miles in it was snowing hard, about 6 miles in it was a blizzard. I did have gear and was fully prepared to bivy in the worst case scenario, I abandoned the survey and started humping out Dobbin Cr. to meet brad. The trail at the upper end of Dobbin Cr. gets real hard to find when there isn't snow (scattered patchs of trees and grass meadows with lots of elk trails around. Once I got up there the top of Dobbin a couple miles from the trail head, there was about a foot of snow on the ground and right as I realized I couldn't find the trail, brad comes plowing down the hill after me. We meet up and head back out, a little ways up his track it was snowing so hard his tracks were gone. Fun times. I really like sking Angel Basin area in the Elk Horns too and Strawberry mountain, And the ridge above black lake in the Elkhorns We also used to skin up the hill at spout springs when it was closed for a few years and ski the back side terrain.

sheat beetch you guys is funny

Moving down to Forest Grove, went and baught a house down there last weekend (subject to inspection There is a great full finshed out basement, and the boss has given preliminary permit approval to build a climbing wall. It is a huge space and I could easily get 26' long x 8+' high wall in there. I have build walls before (a long time ago) and won't have any problem building what I want structurally. My question is, where is a good source to buy new holds (besides craigslist) at a good price. Probably looking to get 150 to 200 holds and hardware. Thanks for any suggestions

Another one in Oregon to the NE. Good rock, but few routes. send me a pm if you took this or know what this is and know of any route development there. p.s. I have posted a topo map of this area on cc sprayers before, it over looks a river that is the biggest fork of the Wallowa River, but not of that name. The name of the bluff is also the name of a roadless mangement area. There are a bunch of cracks and faces that are of good quality, it is a 10 minute walke from a gravel road to the top, it faces east. The best part of the crag is further round the corner on the right of the photo

Thanks for the offer, I won't be down there full time till probably after the first of the year, lots of stuff to do to get moved down there and shop set up. I will make several trips back up to D-town in the summer though to visit Hanman and Uncle Dirty etc.!

Finally getting back to the state of my birth and upbringing. Will be moving to forest grove by the end of the year. Looking for partners in the immediate vicinity for climbing shenaneganigans that involve multipitch trad, route development, sheep, an occasional goat, adult beverages, and also ability to kayak and or row whitewater is a plus. Salmon and steelhead will also be persued on occasion when rock is wet. Shapp

I always considered 5.10- to be anything from hard 5.9 to 5.10a, I don't think gold rush could be considered 10b.

you know the merrell flash dance (neon grean with pink triangle) rocked! Not!

I climb for my self, I don't give a flying F what anyone else is doing and it doesn't influence me at all, that being said, I watched the 60 minutes story on tv, and that is not for me. I have only free soloed a couple times and it scared the beezus out of my behind. Anyone ever taken a lead fall while roped climbing because they broke a hold? I have, upside down even, on an easy climb well within my free solo limit, a climb I had previously done rope probably 8 times before. I could have thought, dam I might solo that, done it a bunch, know every move, If I would have made that choice I would be dead.

Hey all you guys responding to the OP. 5.6 or under was the request. There is a big difference between 5.6 and under and 5.7-5.8 when you are a new trad leader. Listen to Corvallis, Staender is a great place to get on a bunch of 5.6. Look at Watt's guide and get on every thing with two or more stars. And you won't be anyones way, but more importantly won't have anyone around making you nervious.

I thought about Brian a bit last night in rememberance. Some good times in high school: sitting in the hot tub at his house with the hot exchange student from finland (girl) Brian diving off the top of the train tressle at hayden bridge (he was a competition diver and quit good) Ice cream cone building competitions at AM/PM

RIP, I grew up with Brian, haven't talked to him in 20 years though. One of his bros died in another tragic non-climbing incident several years ago. He was a nice dude. Sympothy to the family. Shapp

Though I am not one of the drummers, the grass lands, now called skull hollow, has been the scene of late night climbers parties since time immemorial. Go to the bivy or motel 6. The grass lands has never been sought for quiet solitude.

Garden weasel at 3 oclock rock, I like that route but it needs all new bolts.

Thanks for the words everyone.

Ode to the dog Simon, went to work with me nearly every day of his 13 years.

My 13 year old good friend passed on this morning. Got him at the La Grande Oregon shelter when he was 6 weeks old.

nice!, more horse cock and instant starbucks instead of the frenchpress and you would have made more objectives