matt_m

2nd the statement that the ADK IS actually a death knot. Rock and Ice and several other sources have stated and it's been tested that the ADK is EXTREMELY dangerous - when loaded the knot rolls on itself but doesn't cinch down nearly as well as the EDK. I think there was a rap accident in AINAM where this happened. Stay away from the ADK. That said - I usually use the EDK with 12in or so tails and tighten the hell out of it before rapping. Weird ropes or long, smooth raps (eg Royal arches) I'll use the double fish but most other places like Ref Rocks - EDK well cleaned and pre tightened is the way to go.

Yep - Have the misties and like them How well do they stay open? They don't have a spreader bar like the yates ones but they'll stay open about as wide as your foot when weighted - I've never had major issues getting in them. If you're doing serious aid - yates all the way but for most stuff the misties are nice and lighter to boot

Yep - Have the misties and like them

So true - a lot of people like to criticize things now, that, historically were not controversial. And vice versa - no one screams bloody murder when people hang and work a route now but back them - whoa boy. Yo Yoing was a "bridge" technique between the "you fall you lower and pull your rope" ethics of the earlier gens and the more modern "work it then lead it" style. Remember - hang-dogging was a term with negative connotations - nowadays, you mention that phrase at WWI and some people may not even know what you're talking about let alone consider it a critique.

No kidding - Senseless thoughts of paranoia is pretty cool as well. Anyone know where he got all his chain and bolts and such? His replacement makes Index all that much cooler. And that Chain! That'll be there for a long long time.

The FM radio thing baffles me - every single person I know that has an iPod loves it for many reasons but one of the biggest is that they never have to listen to FM again! Yes, the shuffle adverts the "shuffle" as a feature but more so as a style of use. Their point is that this is a really basic device that plays music and is ridiculously easy to use and carry. They studied mp3 player use and found a large % of people were just shuffling any way so why not save space and complexity and make that the style of use. If you want the ability to choose a song you spend $50 and get the 4gb mini (damn sexy as well) WMA playback? I guess you could want this but I've never needed to carry music in this format. I think napster does this but iTunes music store is HANDS DOWN the best place to buy new stuff and they use AAC. You can also encode your own cds in any foramt you want and I can't think of a reason you;d do it in WMA vs AAC. iPods and the use they receive once purchased is almost illicit drug like. I've had 4 close friends all get them after seeing me with mine for the past year and within a week they wouldn't shut up about them. get one - once you get a taste you'll never look back

no idea in bham but you're close to squamish (relatively) Drop them off at Valhalla - Snoboy does a bang up job with them (i think that's who does them) You'll have to send them to yates if you need them reslung. option b - buy the cam dr repair kit from MEC and fix your own

It's pretty damn cool. I've had a 3G 15Gb iPod for a while and it lives in my car. I got the shuffle for working out and "abuse prone" things since I didn't want to risk the big'un. (Took a spill on the road bike with it and nearly killed it - Got a nice scar sacificing the body instead) Anyway - I'ev got the 512 MB one - hold 120 songs right now (8 Hrs worth!) I ride with it and take it to the gym for solo sessions etc etc. It's great, super lightweight and essentially a no brainer to use. hit play, adjust volume, go. If you're looking to select stuff while you're on the go - this isn't for you - get a mini or reg iPod. Think of the shuffle as a biggie -sized mix CD that you can change every time you're back at your computer. I have a workout mix, chill mix and an "angry" mix that I can put on before heading out.

So, siting on the ferry riding back from index yesterday I start reading Sky Valley pretty thouroghly (Planning on a lot of time here this year - need to get strong). Anyway, I noticed that a BOATLOAD of FAs were done by Greg Collum. Did a google search and he looks to have done some big stuff on Shipton among others but DAMN. Did he live at index with a HUGE personal fortune? Impressive stuff.

Mmm - I don't think Marcus wears a helmet. Looked at the 32 book. No lid there...

Ouch - painful use of "Nor Cal" speak. Even my New England "wicked fast" doesn't sound that bad

Damn! I thought the same thing - The old Blurr model I think - should've bought this used one off a buddy of mine but climbing gear was the (was? is!) the priority. These things look AWESOME

Take a look at the product pict on their web site - the inner cams are independent which makes me think it's a 4CU. Cool. VERY Interested in these as well. I think the animation was just simplified which makes it looks like a TCU.

Not sure if you consider this "not in the USA" per se. Squamish! 1) You CAN DRIVE THERE 2) YOU CAN BRING ALL YOUR OWN FOOD AND CAMP 3) In season - lots if international flavor 4) Ridiculous climbing Outside US - I've heard Mexico but can't vouch for it personally

In order of selection size... 1) Cascade Crags 2) REI - Seattle 3) Probably Marmot 4) Every where else

yep - Ramutas here too - Better than when I bought them!

ipod mini or ipod ipod has been rockin out for over a year can't live without it

Anyone know if this has been done or tried? A highly motivated friend of mine was starting to ask questions...

Until I actually SEE and HOLD one in my hand AND see that's there's new info in there - I won't believe jack about any new guide book Troll - 3

Actually - the "safest" helmet on he market today climbing wise is the Petzl Meteor ie the "bike helmet". This is based on the energy absorption on the helmets on the market. The Petzl rep said the foam does the best job but that most people avoid it because it looks like a bike helmet. The "deformation" is what takes the hit. The difference between a ski helmet and climbing helmet is probably the fact that RATED climbing helmets have to survive a puncture test as well... Not sure if the ski helmet would do that. I can could go on and on... Anyway - it would probably be ok (better than nothing at all) but for another $50 or so you could have a sport specific helmet.

Back to the accessories info. 3 essentials for ipod bliss... 1) Rubber Case of some sort. Yes it's hard to get into your pocket but i no longer worry about scratching my $400 pack of cards. Best Buy had a decent clear-ish one. Bonus - the rubber keeps the pod from sliding every which way on smooth surfaces. 2) Belkin makes a car power adapter that give you a line level out (unlike the headphone port) This allows infinite playing in your car. 3) Add to the Belkin a TAPE adapter and you're mobile in the car (If you have a stereo with an aux in source use this instead of the tape) You could also go with the Monster Cable power/radio adapter that adds FM capabilities but it's pricey and doesn't have a line level out - Upside - you can grab it and viola! Tunes in anyones road trip mobile. 4) Screen protector - keep those scratches at bay. best out there (use it on my treo) Boxwave ipod Stuff Yes it's $13 but it's WAY better than any cheapo one you get at staples nuff nerdy for now...

There's no "other" category so I went with another state that was "away" from WA

Climb: Gunks and NH-All Over the Place Date of Climb: 10/3/2004 Trip Report: Just got back from a 10 day trip through NY / NH. This will be my first attempt at a long trip report so please deal with the ramblings and inane banter. Got into NY on Oct 2nd and was down in S. NY by the afternoon. I have family that lives 50 minutes from the Gunks (Poughkeepsie native: ayeh) so base camp was super cush. Nothing like a "mom - cooked" meal after a day on the rock. Headed out to the Gunks the next day and was reminded of all the craziness that is New Paltz. I hadn't been there in 4 years but man, it's still nutty on a good fall weekend. Picture a parking lot full of 200 (yes that's two hundred) cars all with people packing TRAD gear. I've never seen so many cams and ridiculous displays of tied webbing runners in one place. Cool. Being a weekend we did the old Gunks route finding routine of 1) walk to base of climb 2) ask if we're at the right spot 3) be told no it's over there 40 ft 4) look over 40ft to see 2 partied waiting to get on the Williams 3 star classic. Got on some good climbs regardless including Pax De Deux and MF. I was loving the horizontals already. Day 2 - Monday. The cliffs seem abandoned as we made our way down to High E. Hopped on that and then back around to get on Directissima. Both great climbs. Also did Bonnies Roof and Ants Line, working our way back towards the car, finishing up with an onsight of Retribution. That sucker is hard and lacks a lot of those friendly horizontals - Very rough crystalline piton scars for your fingers. Observations after two days. The horizontal climbing is SICK. Every time you think you've run out of holds, you reach a little higher up and BAM! Great incut edge. This leads me to point 2. It's good to be tall in the Gunks. Short people - sorry but you're stuck having to stretch for those great edges. 3) Aliens are undoubtedly the GREATEST PIECE OF GEAR EVER MADE. I say this all the time out west but having been back to my old haunt WITH aliens I've been even more convinced. Go buy two sets to red and ignore anyone who says othewise. Same goes for the gunks tie-off. Versatile as heck. Double ropes - Learn to love them as you PIMP everyone around you with them. They're confidence inspiring on the roofs, great for the wondering pro placements AND you can rap down a lot of stuff in one shot, smiling as you pass the people trying to feed that single for the 3rd! time getting down from the high-e buttress. Lastly, and this could be blastphemy for me (esp having learned there). I think going from the Gunks to say, Squamish vertical cracks would feel a lot harder than going the other way. Yeah the Gunks were pumpy but horizontals are pretty straight forward. (Exceptions like the retribution pins scars do exist!) Day 3 - Weather looks iffy so we pack up and bust a move to North Conway, NH for some good ole granite loving at Cathedral / Whitehorse. Get there late afternoon and book-it down to Book of Soleminity. DAMN. After two days of horizontals, getting back into the granite climbing that I love was F-in HARD. Tiny little crimps and STEMMING in corners! That first 40 ft around the bulge made me WORK. Got it clean and after a little thought, fired through the second pitch as well topping out as the sun set. Met some really nice retirees at the top that had a place in town and chatted it up with them for a little as we sorted and stacked the gear. Walked to the car (LOVE the cliff top parking) and drove to dinner. Some Moose place in N Conway that was good. Crisp fall air and wood smoke had me grinning ear to ear as we made our way to the hostel in town to crash. Decent place, the hostel that is, and right on the road to the cliff. 10 minutes tops from bed to belay if you wanted. Day 4 - Whitehorse Day. Parked at the hotel and walked over to the Wonder Wall area. Not a bad approach at all. Racked up and began the adventure of FINDING the start to The Last Unicorn. Tip: The tree at the base is dead and no longer standing - looks like a small rock fall/slide took it out. Start near the fresh rock and work your way up and left (Scary) to the bolt. Unicorn had to be one of my favorite climbs of the Trip. After the EXCITING 1st pitch (only pro for the start are two pins and a bolt before the crux) the climb mellows and is SPECTACULAR. Highly recommended. Rapped down and did some other face climbs there before finishing up on Ethereal Crack and the 10a next to it. Good stuff. Dinner at the Chinese place in town (lots-o-food!) before hitting the sack. Day 5 - Cathedral 2 - Quick stop in IMS and EMS to get my cliff poster and t shirt (I collect them) before rapping into the start of Recombeast. Again, there's a reason this is a must do. No as cool as Solemnity or Unicorn but great location nonetheless. Walked over and did Chicken Delight then hiked down to try and get on Deidre. Party on it so we head over and try and find the start of Intimidation. I start up what I think is the climb and work pretty damn hard to get up the first pitch. The whole time I'm thinking "holy sandbag batman" even for 10b. Later I found out I was on Abracadbra. Sweet, my first onsight trad 11b. Thats a good whoops. We kept walking over to the thin air face to run up Rapid Transit before finishing off the day with a TR on Airation Crack. Great climb but don't mess up because this thing will break your fingers the locks are so secure. North Conway Observations - This place was amazing. No crowds, great town, great people, great climbing. I'll be going back again without a doubt. Day 6 - Hump Day. We hump over the Kanc Highway (Beautiful fall folliage) hoping to run up something on Cannon. Park the car, check out the rock scar formely know as the Old Man in the Mountain and start up to get on Moby Grape for a nice long crusier day. Get to the base to see no less than 4! parties on the route. WTF?! We rope up anyway thinking if we hustle we might pass them all before the 3rd pitch with some simul-climbing. We get up to the top to see ANOTHER party higher up. Bleh - rap down, do Reppy's Crack (Think Kalahnie Crack but longer and cleaner) and hike over to Whiney/Gillman. Pass some nice people lower down and top out pretty fast. Cool ridge climbing. Descend, hop in the car and book-it to Dartmouth so I can shoot the breeze with my old coach and get some grub before we watched the debates in a dorm lounge. Drive home to NY at 1am tired but having a blast. day 7 - rest day day 8 - Back to the Gunks - Nutty crowds but we manage to get on Modern Times and CCK Direct among others. Good stories with those two though... Modern Times (5.8+) - This wins the award for biggest 5.8 sandbag EVER. Seriously - how many 5.8s pull through 10+ foot roofs? not many. When people say they lead solid 5.8 just ask them if they've done modern times. Probably my top 5.8 ever. Don't ask questions, just go do it. Put in some good pro at the roof and go go go. When you pull over the top the smile on your face will HURT it will be so big. CCK Direct - Line on this one but we decide to cue up. Small world since the people in front of us were from Seattle AND I knew one of them (mutual friends) Good times Tim! As we're waiting, an older man and his son come up and line up behind us. Standard friendly climber conversation leads to a conversation about NH climbing and what we'd been on. The older gentleman can identify everything I'm talking about BEFORE I tell him route names and drops a few choice lines like "One of the first 10 ascents of the salathe" or something like that. Hmmm - this guy seems to be legit and old school. Who is he? More conversation about checking out Canon and the VMC Direct Direct (Didn't do it - time and wuss factor overruled) Gentleman " Yeah, that's a hard route. I did it again last year and was working pretty hard it. I did the first ascent of that you know...." Yep - Steve Arsenault was cruising up the cliff right behind me. SWEET. Very nice, smart guy with a lot of knowledge of the climbing scene. Great conversation up the cliff as we waited with him and his son (nice as well) at the GT ledge too. Day 9 - Last day - Fire up all the other classics we were trying to get on all week and manage them all. Double-issima, Son-of-East-O (Tied with modern times for best 5.8 EVER) Arrow etc. Fall colors are in full effect. Can't beat the east in Oct. Nothing else like it. I realized that if I put in all the details of this trip I'd be here till sunday so ask questions if you want and I'll fire beta as needed. Pics to follow soon. M Gear Notes: ALIENS!!! Double ropes and Gunks Tie-Offs are musts

Short Answer - No, don't do it. Long Answer - This has been debated at length but for almost all situations, a Daisy chain does not provide enough strength to be used as an anchor. BD's tech guy a while back did testing on daises and found that when a pocket does blow it ALSO significantly weakens the chain end-to-end. I personal recommend against using a daisy and wholly think the PAS is THE way to go for this sort of thing. A lot of people still insist on the daisy because it's less expensive. If you want to go less expensive a 2 foot runner works fine a lot of the time or a 3 foot with a knot or two in it. Daisies are aid gear so you don't drop you stuff NOT an anchor solution.

I haven't but have talked to several people who like them a lot. Not a high performance shoe per-say. Great for long stuff though. Sportiva supposedly has a lot of new shoes in the works right now for late 04-05 so if you don't have your heart set on them - Might want to wait a little bit. ME? I'm dying for the barracuda to come out. think katana with a slightly more relaxed heel, web rubber on the forefoot and LACES. Boo Yeah - Performance trad shoe!