matt_m

Thanks - both for the heads up and the cleaning - I've heard that route is great but suffering from dirt as well - The effort is appreciated (esp when I get on it). Ignore the anti-cleaning flamers on here... not worth your time.

Heads up to anyone going up Gun Rack in Clems Holler - the top of the second pitch (5.7) right below the anchors lost a church pew sized chunk in the past week or so. I did it with a bud about a month ago and the rock was there (put an alien in the crack it made as you pulled over the "roof" off the slab) It not there anymore and left a sharp edge as well

FYI - For those who read this forum and are new I think it's worth pointing out that the two Guide Book authors have a fairly well know distaste for one another that can be read in the introductions in each book. In Tony's defense, he's very opinionated and can rub people the wrong way on occasion BUT it's my understanding and belief that his book was (it's out of print right now) the much more accurate of the two. He went and interviewed the FAists and put a lot of older, unpublished history in his book, including original route names. The Bingham supporters cried bloody murder and the Calderone supports cried right back. I think the true story lies somewhere in the middle....

FYI - Birds are gone (ie the nest was there but no sign of the birds) Climb On

Ahh - in that case no harm no foul

Hey - get and freaking grip man. I don't think he was asking "how hard is it?" in the I'm scared way (In fact I know he's more than solid - are you?) he was asking if it was worth doing. Jeezus you need to get over yourself.

Ummm... how else do you propose to ascend the rope? Bite the rope with your mouth while you slide the other one up? 2 ascenders per person is standard. One wants two ascenders/team (not person) dumbshit. Two ascenders per team ONLY if you're not hauling in which case you most certainly would want two ascenders per person - one cleans while the other hauls. Way too quick on the dumb-shit call there tough guy...

What does the ASCA have to do with anything? They're sole purpose is to REPLACE old, manky fixed gear placed "back in the day". They're not putting in new routes that are tightly bolted. I don't want to hear any of that - manky bolts make it "real" climbing crap either. When they were put in, those bolts were SOLID (or as solid as 1/4in compression bolts could be) and the FAist climbed under that blanket - THOSE WERE SOLID BOLTS. 30 years later they're not and the ASCA is returning them to original condition. I STRONGLY think contrived danger (ie climbing a route that's dangerous solely because there are manky bolts) is one of the dumbest things going in climbing right now. If the route was bold, great - I've done HUGE run-outs on slab numerous times. If the route is bold because it has old hardware that's more than even the FAist was experiencing. The ASCA does the climbing community a valuable service, period.

Positive for the following 2 reasons 1) I've done it and the Last rap (note - you need to rap more than the split pillar) to the ground is near 60m 2) A 70m cord only gets you a 35m rap MAX = 114ft so you'd be short EVEN if you only had to rap the split. Bring two 60m cords

Might do that climb mentioned in the back of Squamish Select with some friends this summer as a good "Easy Euro Looks Cool" adventure. Anyone done this? Guide mentions a free lift ride up with the right "pass" any info? I'd save this for a day when it's too hot in Squam and then drink a Guinness at the base to end the day. MMMMM

Dovals are the devil biner. Well not really - they a great "utility" biner at anchors and such BUT under no circumstances should they be utilized in a place that requires clipping them while climbing. Because of their uniform shape it hard to tell which is the OPEN side. Not fun when you're locked off in a powerful lieback sketching to clip in... Yikes

I use WC Heliums and DMM Spectres and haven't looked back - Best biners out there hands down - You do need a small loan to outfit yourself however... I just swore off new clothing and $5 coffee for a while...

No worries all - Classic example of the excitement we all can create with a little too much time. My S.O. having never seen a good ole slanderous Chat Forum got nice and worked up (she rarely has time in her line of work for an internet life) so I had to explain to her a typical topic run like this. I believe she requested a cold Guinness as reparations for the posts.

Damn - I post a little inquiry about what may have happened to my cam and it somehow turns into two pages of slander? Damn - got to love the internet forms and the social scene they create. In no particular order... WTF is up with the google search and link? Did you skip the ones where they have Track and Field Results or the PICTURE of me in the Kitsap Sun (not my fault - lady was there that day) Might as well google John smith - Weird post and way off base. Moving on... People need to get a SERIOUS grip on the whole "Your partner lied to you!" angle. Wow - issues Frankly, I KNOW she didn't lie but, it being her first time outside I took what she reported with a grain of salt - Going off the wall and saying this person is untrustworthy (again, I STATED SHE WAS NEW) is a little nuts. You know what? I figured out what happened (partially based on this post) so let me lay it down I wanted to take the G-friend outside for the first time - She's new to the sport so I went with something easier for her to try. I own three racks and grabbed the oldest one KNOWING THERE WAS A GOOD CHANCE something might get left behind. CLimber the route, at the roof I clipped a fixed Metolius Hex and, realizing she might not know what to do with the fixed gear told her to take everything but the fixed piece (Keep this in mind). She climbs - we get up to loggers ledge and as I re-rack for saber I notice the MIA #1. She says she didn't leave anything behind (take note) nor drop anything (I watched her most of the way and agree). She's damn smart (M.D.) and I know she wouldn't lie so I'm left to assume the piece unclipped and fell. I was curious what happened to it nonetheless (since piece unclipping are rare but not unheard of) I even ran back up to the base to see if it had fallen back to the ground. Another thing to add was the fact there was a another party starting up the route when I was belaying on Stoners Ledge. So I get home and post the L & F report, more just to see if anyone had found it so I'd know it wasn't abducted - The whole crunchy karma thing isn't my bag but thought it might make the post sound more friendly. Frankly I too am of the old guard you leave it it's up for grabs. (Search for my post ANNOUNCING a brand new piece on Outer Space a while back - again - a calculated risk with some newer climbers - No expectations I'd get it back - just wanted someone to go grab it. I've benefited from booty and left it with no regrets keeping what I've found) Frankly, the hostile, rub it in your face post was dumb and uncalled for. I would have been more than happy to hear - yeah I found it and I'm going to adhere to the booty code (can I patent that? The Booty Code? That way if you find something you can call Booty code and not worry someone will get torqued that you kept it in the age of the internet - OK - Unless circumstances are extreme - I call booty code on any future gear I find! LAUGH!) anyway - The Resolution to the CC.com Lost CAM Scandal: Here's what happened - Partner left the cam behind and CLEANED all the gear off of it thinking it was the fixed piece I spoke of (Hence the missing carabiner on the FOUND piece) The neutrino probably just got sucked into the spares on my rack without my noticing it. I never said the fixed piece was a Hex (which newer partner wouldn't know anyway) Bottom line, I wasn't as clear as I could be and a piece was inadvertently left behind. No big deal. I posted on CC.com to 1) See what happened to the mystery cam and 2) chance someone might give it back BUT WITH NO EXPECTATIONS THEREIN - I know the code and stick to it but I've also given back a 70m rope I found "just because". I've kept plenty as well. Someone posts that they found it, my partner is a lier and sucks and I beat my wife. CC.com flame war ensues... I could point out all the flaws and reasons the response was lame and wrong but - ehh - thats just too damn easy. Everyone here knows the score...

Full reply coming shortly...

Yep - you need at least 50m doubles to get down and 60m if you don't want to swing to the base of apron strings for the last one

Yep - the 5.9 R is runout but if you've gotten there you shouldn't have an issue with it. Bolts are all good now. The lower crux is technique dependent and tricky (where the route goes vs what the bolts "tell you") The upper one is stout and reach dependent IMO. I watched my buddy who's a 13 climber fall off because he couldn't reach the hold - I did it after a little work. GREAT route I've dine twice now. Favorite pitch is hands down the TRAVERSE pitch - Have fun. CS in GW is a nice high milage day...

C'mmon road trip people - What's the best way to set a land speed record to skaha? I5 through Chilliwack north or 90/2 east to 97 north?

Looked at it - looks hard as hell Glad I'm not the only one who winces when they see Greg Collum's name. Not that FAist Greg Child wasn't a hard man too Is it wet right now? I seem to recall that climbing being in a drip zone - Side note - any new info on the routes on the left side of the Drip Wall? I assume they're wet now too....

Bolt spacing is proud up there - Not necessarily run-out mind you bout certainly not vantage tight (which I think is fine given the rock quality of vantage) No chopping seen and frankly, why would there be? No grid bolting and from what I could tell, not a whole lot in the way of protection available - A great cliff...

Quickie Here - very short day was had monday, it stayed dry though so no complaints (other than RIDICULOUS traffic returning - 1:15 to get from index to monroe!) Took a jaunt up to Blues cliff for the first time - pretty damn cool looking - got on rhythm and bolts but had to leave before I tried anything else (true to form as with any other Greg Collum route - it was damn hard for 11a) The cliff was a little damp and dirty but the climbing looks ridiculous - just needs a good scrub here or there. New route spotted between Accidental Discharge and 12 Gauge IQ - any ideas? looks awesome from the ground...

Somewhere on Lower Castle in the Catapult area - No idea where it went - Didn't see it fall, 99% sure partner didn't leave it behind - It just went poof! into thin air! My guess is it unclipped and partner (first time outside) just didnt notice - happen to the best of us - Good carma to anyone who fids it... and PMs me

The book indicates old and weary rap stations to the left of centerfold. Any idea if these are up to snuff now? How about just rapping centerfold? Want to try these this weekend if it's not BLAZING out. Any idea if the Blues Cliff is cooler?

What other harder offwidths are there in L-worth? Need to start the training if I'm going to get the skeleton known as Pipeline out of my closet

anyone got info on this place? lead climbing? etc?