ken4ord

WTF is going on here, First Dirty Harry tee hee hee-ing like a catholic school girl and now your going on about being a hot woman?

Hee Hee???? Dirty Harry, when did you become a school girl? Was it after that life expectancy test that you realized being a male was detremental to living a long life?

This one is purty http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/40140676

don't work so well when using that rope on rappel Oh yeah I forgot you left all the slings you started climbing with. As suggested by Gary, you already have slings and a locker. Tip: In case you still have all of your slings you can take a two foot sling, girth hitch to harness, clip two lockers onto it, clip rappel device onto one of the lockers (hopefully you are not the type to have a rappel device and a seperate belay device). Set up your rappel device with rope running through it, yes your device is now located two feet from harness, but guess what you have both hands on the brake line for more control. As you reach the anchor, clip the free locker biner into the anchor and continue rapping until you are tight on the anchor (this minimize risk of shock loading anchor). Undo rappel device. There are some downsides and that is why I don't always use this technique, they are if you have long hair it is easier to get your hair caught in your rappel device and it is very difficult to ascend the rope if needed. Yes gavastik, that would be the proper use for a daisy chain. but I see a lot of people aiding using them incorrectly, in the way that was demostrated in the video. For the most part when I am aiding I tend use my daisy as prevention for dropping my aiders. A fifi is a more useful tool for temporarily anchoring and for anchoring at the end of the pitch I use the rope.

I still don't understand why people still use daisy chain??? Ok yes you can make them safe, so that what was demostrated in the video doesn't happen. The thing that get me why do I want to have a stupid strap wrapped around my waist that snags gear when you are trying clip unclip gear from your harness and it just an extra heavy sling that has limited purpose. What a waste. What the hell is wrong with the rope you are tied into? Is it not strong enough? Does it offer too much flexibilty in adjusting yourself from the anchor? Or is it because the rope is dynamic and you decrease your chance of shock loading the anchor? Or is it because you have never learned how to tie a clove hitch?

Cheers. Hope you have a good birthday.

Vagina doesn't sound as good as pussy. Vagina is sort of a sterile and clinical word IMO. We use vagina and variants of it here at work such as, vagial cavity, vaginal vault, vaginal infection, bacterial vaginois. I don't want to be reminded of of work when it is time for play. As for the penis, again to clinical, and I don't like naming my peep after a guy such as Rod, Peter and Johnson.

All threads are stupid and "ghey" (are you happy oly?).

It is like to have pick what is my favorite type of food or my favorite beer. They are all good and they all have their good and bad aspect. It really depends what I am in the mood for. With that said I am usually in the mood for alpine rock routes with a close second being ice. Generally I don't like the walking crap, glaciers are pretty to look at, but all they are is a hike with a lot of equipment. my 2 cents.

Arrgh we needs to talk. I will be flying solo in October so even though I am taking a month and half off in July-August, I might be able to catch a flight out there and we could do some climbing. It a little late for ice on Mt. Kenya, but there are other routes I haven't done there. There is also a big wall that has maybe seen 1 maybe a maximum of 2 ascents lower on the mountain. Anything on the mountain though would have to be a mad dash because I might not be able to take too many days. I haven't been to Hell's Gate yet, there is camping, multi-pitch climbing, and wildlife suppose to be a cool spot. Or there is always jumping 1 hour flight to Rwanda, but I think Kenya is cooler though. Hmm we have to talk when I am back.

Arrgh, might be able to help you out this fall, y'knows Afrixca is a mighty big continent. Where might you be on this continent when the fall winds blow? My ship is arriving nears the end of July, I will keep an eye out fer yer.

Well we made it back out to Switzerland, and again freaking awesome day. I love this place and really looking forward to getting out there again soon. The great thing is that all the climbing I have done out here is all new routes, gotta love it. Again we spent the first half of the day doing routes and then had a picnic under the watchful eyes of the locals, then we broke out the Belgium beers and spliffs and bouldered until we could feel our arm. The next day I was sore everywhere, including my ribs. Made monday bearable. Ok ok, here's the pics. Here is an overview picture of the hillside that we were climbing on. Neorock is where we were climbing before where Slippery Slab and other routes are. MILI Rock was a future route listed last time now done, Lower Rock I still need to check out. Big ass is where Ass Crack is located. Now I am calling this MILI Rock for the route Move It or Lose It 5.10a. Three new routes on the left side of Big Ass Rock range from 5.8-5.9. Looking down at the crew and local company.

I am far from badass if that what you are saying, it is more like fatass. When I first came out here my job was suppose to be house boy, which mean climber with a real nice financially supportive girlfriend. Little did I know the nice girlfriend was going to find climber a legit job, jeezs, me stoopid fatass now. The next wunderkind will hopefully be our kid so she can drag big fat old man up big hard technical routes. We'll see. If she is not the one, maybe the offspring from a arranged marrige that Boulderboy I have worked out so that we can have Huberesque grandchildren, this is all dependant that Distel produces a boy.

What the hell are you talking about?

How big is that route? Looks cool, but sort of short?

Aye maties, getting pumped on sailing the sea of cheese back to the mother land this summer. I am working out like mad lately on the new wall and getting on the real shite too. Still keeping up with swashbuckling drinking and smoking activities too, so I can still hold my own and represent. This morning I got up at 5am and did a ride that involed at least 2500 feet of elevation gain, maybe more. Aaarrrgghh! Pumped I say, pumped! So my fellow butt pirates be ready to get on some stone and stoned when I am there. Aaarrrggh! So playas, yes you Alpineywhineyfoxy, Apedave, freakyFern, Tansnafflehound, DirtysmellyhippyHarry, BobbyherionbrownPeru, AlpiholiK, MattPPalloverhisshorts, Olywallyclimber, lucidLunger, Trixxxyminx, tacoPaco, and the rest of you pcPCersdrunks. AAARRRRGGHHHH!!!! I need a blunt, someone, anyone! Carry on.

I can't believe I have never had a bouldering wall before. It freaking rocks. Granted I would love be on the real stone instead, but shit I am stoked to have the wall out back, tunes, beer, a little , and friends. It is awesome, I will never go without having one where ever I live. I just want to get another 100 holds when I am back in the States so I can pepper the hell out my wall with holds.

So far AlpinFox is on the money, I would add live some place where you can walk to the cliff, cause your not going to be able to afford to drive anywhere.

I must say I am a fan of the beatniks and drunks, so here it is. Bukowski Buroughs Keroac Gingsberg Abbey Rollins more recently and out of listed generation, Chuck Palahniuk

Yeah just a little to late in life though, this one should have gone long time ago.

That what I was thinking. I got find out where to get one, those are funny as hell.

Actually there is a part of the Climbing Course called the Mentor Program, "Can anyone help me, I'm looking for a Mentor!!" Here you go, there is 3 of them in the band, I am sure any of them will do just fine for you.

but gary, their policy of having former students (with minimal experience after their first round of classes) teach new students is just asking for trouble...couple that with inflexible dogma about how things MUST be done and you are really courting disaster... The other thing that i have serious issues with, is that they are so damn focused on the technicalities (wrong word) of climbing that they don't teach the actual act of climbing very well...maybe if they spent a wee bit more time on this aspect of climbing (how to climb, and this is really where last year's class is woefully unprepared to teach this years class), we would see less of these "slips" on 3rd and 4th class terrain. Dirty harry is not far off the mark about 5.4 technique being the protection for 5.4 climbing...don't fall, you won't get smucked. several posters mentioned that (NOLSe i believe) that getting prepared on single pitch but harder terrain before venturing ontto multipitch is a good way...i agree Also, and i hate to sound like a punk so don't take this the wrong way, but some people just should not be climbers...just cuz you got the dollars does not mean you'll make a good climber... RuMR I agree with you that the Mounties really do need to focus more act of climbing, it is really sad that there are people out there that struggle with 5.4. I am not dissing people like that, I really think it is sad, and it would be nice if someone showed them how to climb better. A friend of mine used to guide this one NYC opera singer and the dude must have weighed at least 250 lbs and not athletic by any means, but he would still follow my buddy up the occasional 5.9 multi-pitch route. The other thing I also see that really debilitate new climber within the Mountie Org is the fear that they instill on new climbers. Everyone I have met from the Mounties has extreme "respect" for climbs, to the point that I think they are terrified certain climbs. Maybe it is an ego thing that the "leaders" play on the new climber on how difficult climbs are and such, who knows why, maybe it is just the organization, I don't know. Where I learned to climb we didn't have the Mounties, I am glad because I probably would have been a statistic and joined. I was scared shitless of heights and didn't have any balance when I started. Luckily I had friends that were in the same boat, none of us had much experience, but we all were learning together in a supportive atmosphere, instead of having some leader that tell us what was and was not possible as a new climber. We always encourged each other to push ourselves further, improve our skills and do it in a safe manner. We also just didn't rely on weekends, we would practice and read whenever we could, including the Mountie bible (I must have read that thing front to back a couple of times). Maybe if they spent time teaching their students climbing is not only a physical (movement of climbing) and mechanical (protection placing), but that climbing is also very mental sport there would less accidents. Maybe I am way off, but there is no need to be scared of these climbs, it is waste, better use that energy on useful thing like how to climb the route in a safe manner.

I agree with Chuck, I climbed it twice and both times I had fun. It is not the most spectacular route there far better routes in the Cascades, but it is a good day outing with some good views and no brainer type climbing. If you are there during the summer time though be warned that the route is a completely south facing amphitheater with no shade, so you can get seriously baked (and not the good kind of baked). The final 5 pitches is what really makes the climb the rest of it just approach pitches.

This is my point. If you're leading 5th class rock, you want to test each hold. If you're scrambling 1,000 feet of 3rd or 4th class rock, you move quickly and are more likely to -- oh fuck it, I'm not in the mood to argue. I know I'm right, but let's say we're all right, and get the fuck outside and play. Carry on, then, mates. I am sorry there is no way in hell I going to test each hold on 5th class terrrain and just say fuck it on 4th. That is rediculus. You'll never get a route done. Whether I am on 3rd, 4th or 5th class, I am going to assess mentally what hazards lie ahead. This applies to loose rock, if I see potential hazard, then I am going to test those that might be suspect. Oh yeah I know I am not right, I am ok with it. Rad I like how you broke it down, and yeah you can eliminate a lot of self induced hazard, but what A-fox is saying or at least what I think he is trying to say, no matter what you do to prevent a situation, at some point shit is going to happen.