mike1

To say labor intensive is an understatement. It's a phenomenal effort! Beers all around! :brew::brew::brew::brew::brew:

Sounds like a war zone. Great job!

How many balls do you have?

So if you're really concerned, you'll need to build the 2nd far enough away. My thinking also. There's also the cross method they mention. Belays on snow has some good info too. UIAA is another good resource for info but they haven't any standards for snow stakes. I've sent them an inquiry and will update here if and when I get an answer as to why.

sad news.

how about in-line? You set them far enough apart, then rig the back one from a mid clip to the top of the next one in front and so on. Just spit balling... Or how about one in front (load side) and two in the rear (damn). Anyways, you back up the first anchor with others instead of multi point anchors. just some thoughts...

okay... now turn your head and cough.

Thanks everyone! This is all really good info. Just when you thought you knew how to place a picket... It was interesting to find out that it's recommended to place the V picket pointing towards the load when top clipping, but turning it around for mid clips. It doesn't sound like there is significant difference between the T and the V pickets. At least not for general mountaineering. You’re right about the skating in colder snow. You gotta know the conditions of the snow you’re placing in, for sure.

Now that's what I'm talking about. Thanks nkane!

I could see loading a picket to failure during a crevasse rescue without the elephant factor... But I'm just curious because they're designs are so different that maybe there is a significant benefit to one over the other. I own both, but haven't really "tested" them. Ya... a picket functioning as a picket... that’s what I mean. I’m not a fan of the picket as a deadman. I think you need to cross the snow layers to get the best results. Laying it on the parallel runs the risk of surfing it along a snow layer to failure. I’m just sayin... The web sites don't have much. C'mon, there has to be some physics major out there that's dying to break this down for me!

Does anyone have any info on comparative load tests between the different picket styles, i.e. Yates -v- MSR?

Jennings, Cash... - o/s country music was great! Country music now? It's all bubble gum! HATE IT!

That sux. I hope they are found safe.

I was going to comment on something related to meteors or weeather... by the time I got down here I forgot what it was. Are you guys angry or something?

I think the pros of the half rope climbing system out way the cons. I haven't had problems with the ropes catching in cracks or with friction, at least no more than with a single rope. One of the main benefits is the ability to avoid the angles causing rope drag friction in your lead rope as it runs from anchor to anchor. The added safety factor while pulling slack up to clip is notable too - you fall on the other line without the extra slack. Then the obvious benefit of full length rappels. In self rescue scenarios the list of benefits goes on and on. However, it seems to me like this system is more at home in the alpine environment, whereas single ropes are more suited for face climbing where you’re more likely to follow a straighter line.

I've pulled a few 5.8's at the local crag with my Scarpa Triolets - they did fine. Otherwise, many mid fifth class routes abroad.

Talk about a room full of nervous nerds! That was pretty cool to watch.

If you believe in that sort of thing. Hollywood celebs need to keep their opinions private unless they agree with mine... This Mars landing should be front page news! I found it buried on page 4 of my paper.

We’ve linked Seattle, Noyes, Meany, and Queets (South to North). It’s a pretty cool traverse. We dropped into Queets basin to head towards Oly. Coming from the North you’d drop right into Low Divide Ranger Station from Seattle. Picture is looking along ridge (northerly). Noyes, Meany, & Queets from left to right.

A vegan that's into bouldering. You gotta like that!

Strangely, I woke up this morning pondering this question some more. I think of Alex Lowe when I think of a climber that I respected and admired. But my climbing hero will always be my "partner"... in the climbing sense of the word. Not that there's anything wrong with that.

I do like Eddy... Judas Priest always had cool covers too. Some of the Black Sabbath covers could give you nightmares.

Sportiva They do fit a bit narrow, but worth trying on just to be sure they don't fit you.

5 star boots! I'm looking forward to pulling that same route soon and I'll be wearing mine!

My climbing partner.