Sphinx

Twight climbed on BD tools for quite a while. He seemed to really like his CF Black Prophets. The cobra is a sweet tool, esp for large hands, like mine. BUT it's too expensive for me. If I had the money, I'd buy em. But I like my Rages. And, the Rage recall is OLD news. Plus, there were a limited number of tools recalled, it's not like the O2 disaster.

Slothrop, I think Dwayner (and many other climbers) resents having rules set in stone. Climbing is anarchy, to use a well-know cliche. Overall, the arrrogant tone and the assumptions made in that "declaration" piss me off. Some (very few) of their points are valid, but most, eg, the partner-related one, are over the top. Period.

If you weren't a skinny bastard maybe you could actually swing, instead of hook. Rage Dru Quark balance all fucked up, POS aluminum head, fucked up grip, too. And changing the pick is a nightmare.

No cable here. No TV even. Only cc.com

Pretty much ALL high end tools are very, very good these days. Just go with what you get a good deal on, and like. If it feels good, swing it!

RAGE POMMEL ADDS POWER TO YOUR SWING. WING SHAFT IS TOO SKINNY. RAGE BALANCE REALLY NICE.

RAGE IS BETTER.

dude that is beckfest 02'!!!!

An excellent post Dwayner, I agree on all counts. It's just those damn Euros trying to pidgeonhole everybody into playing by the rules.

A Web-o-letee! As if! Love to see you cutting up your $25 spectra cord for rap anchors, that's all. Hope you have wire cutters or something with you. I just thought it ironic that you said, "Cordellete. More versatile." then proceeded to reccomend a material that is not very versatile! Then you talk about how a web-o-let is expensive... Are you for real??? Good troll dru! A cordellette is more versatile than a webolette. How is the Spectra cord not versatile? And a knife cuts it fine.

Are you for real??? Waddayamean, fag? Spectra is far superior to nylon for slinging applications. It's WAY less bulky, stronger, lighter, etc, etc. Why? Are you using a web-o-lette? Those are cool, too, but you can't prusik with em, less material to cut up for rap anchors, more expensive, etc.

Well, good thing that we don't climb in the Alps. Fuckin euros.

1) Which is better: Sympatex or Triple Point Ceramic Sympatex. TPC isn't very breathable. 2) Cordelette or web o lette? If cord, 5.5mm spectra or 7mm static? Cordellette. More versatile. 5.5 spectra is best, just use a triple fishermans. Lighter, stronger, better. 3) What brand of nuts gives best performance for price? ABC Huevos. 4) a What are the best type of shorts to wear over polypro? b If it cold enough to wear fleece tights instead of polypro, do you still wear shorts over them? Prana nylon. No. 5) What color nylon is the best to make prussiks out of, considering you may end up using them in a crevasse? Bright orange. 6) Which of these is the hardest? a) da Toof b) North Ridge of Baker c) S arete SEWS d) bushwack in to climb Mt Spickard e) Diedre in a party of 4 with only 1 leader and everyone wearing a pack Toof. 7) Why are snow flukes unappreciated? Cause you're ugly. 8) When Mark Twight says he has never gone to a summit, it is because he is 1) lazy 2) being controversial 3) isn't a real climber 2 9) The best thing about climbing is 1) the beauty of nature 2) getting away from your wife for the weekend 3) telling the guys at the office about your weekend on Monday 4) all of the above 4 10) What elevation in the Himalayas is the oxygen pressure on the summit of Mt McKinley equal to? 23,443 11) Bonus question: Who is a better climber - Chris Sharma or Ed Veisturs? Sharma. He isn't as commercialized.

The sushi and the snaffles are awesome.

In Europe it's something like 1.5 Euro PER LITER! So quit yer bitchin.

Maybe if you stabbed deeper next time, they'll treat you sooner so there's less blood to mop up.

You can control my climbing over my cold, dead body. Wasn't it Twight who wrote that "the ones who succeed are the ruthless, arrogant assholes who don't give a shit about the rest of his team" or something like that? Kinda contradictory when compared to the above: "Members of the team should be prepared to make compromises in order to balance the interests and abilities of all the group. " The UIAA can suck my

Dwayner, you are right on. What a crock of bullshit. I climb so that I can get away from people telling me what to do, how to act, what to wear, etc, etc, etc. Making a climbing 'rulebook' is contrary to the appeal of the sport, if you can call it that. Personally, I'd tell the UIAA to go shove it up their ass. Dwayner: you . Well, sometimes, anyways.

Sure. Plenty info avaiable. For example: the rock is limestone. The weather is hot and humid. The cliffs are on the coast. Advice? Don't go. Join the Mounties and climb das Toof instead.

But a nice thick belay jacket rules, too.