glassgowkiss

Noah, this is the basic problem with just a google search and internet in general. The only source of reference is the link to Wikopedia, which in this case is incorrect. Now if you point out to other source I am more then open to listen, but it has to be a legit material. Now if you look beyond some funky topo map at the actual map you will see what I am talking about: http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/50467.jpg You can clearly see Falchen La (6550 m) separating the Gasherbrums from Broad Peak. There is almost 1500m deep col separating the two!. Now there is much more comprehensive material here: http://www.summitpost.org/broad-peak/151330 and here: http://www.summitpost.org/the-karakoram/170996 Now if you are going to name a group the proper name for the region is called Nothern Baltoro Muztagh, not some newspeak "Gasherbrum Group". Like I said- if you find any other sources then quoted Wikopedia I am more then eager to listen. I provided links to at least 4 sources contradicting wikopedia article. On that token I am ready to say again- TNF did not do the proper due diligence and made some significant errors.

Here is another view: http://blogk2.com/index.php?id=283&pic=198 The picture you presented foreshortened the view and the gap between Falchan Kangri and Gasherbrum group is not visible. You are trying to use optical illusion to make your point, however maps show different picture.

Wikipedia is wrong in several instances when I was preparing for the kinesiology portion of the class I am teaching. There were instances, where it did not line up at all with Platzer or Netter at all. I trust printed material way more then the source, which will publish without much of the check. Now every map separates the two ranges for almost 8 decades by now- I don't see how you can revise geography based upon one source- which is published on internet. Second- even Encyclopedia Brittanica ( http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/438805/Pakistan/23675/The-Himalayan-and-Karakoram-ranges ) states "Farther north is the Karakoram Range, which is a separate system adjoining the Himalayas". Hindu Kush and Pamir were formed during the same period, so by that token you'd have to include them in the Himalaya range? Don't think so! Fact of the matter is that even though they formed during the same geological period (and are still forming) they have first and foremost different climate. Karakoram Range doesn't suffer from the influence of monsoon (except for some freak seasons every now and then). Geologically they differ as well, while the Himalayas has a lot of sedimentary rock, Karakoram is formed from granite and metamorphic formations. Now if you can point out some other then Wikipedia material contradicting sources like Visser or Wala then we can talk. Other then that Karakoram is for decades separate range from the Himalayas and TNF writer did not do due diligence to get the facts straight. The same goes for Garsherbrum Range- Gasherbrums were always separated from Broad Peak (Falchan Kangri)- if you point out any other publication besides TNF I will be very interested in it.

so let's include K2 as well as the ridge line continues to Skyang Kangri and then to K2? I am sure with your knowledge of geography you should be drawing maps for fox news.

Donny- you are out of your element. Shut the fuck up!

it's on the net, so it's true.... fox news was showing location of Egypt where Iraq is- must be true as well. Well, here is a bit more scientific source: The Mountains of Central Asia and Their Nomenclature Ph. C. Visser The Geographical Journal Vol. 76, No. 2 (Aug., 1930), pp. 138-142 (article consists of 5 pages)

in between what? before you write just look at the map and THINK! Broad Peak is north of Concordia, Gasherbrum massive is south of that point. Broad Peak consists of 3 summits (North 7550m, Central 8013m and Main 8047m). There are 6 Gasherbrum summits- G1 and G2 are 8068m and 8035m. The distance between Broad Peak and closer G2 is at least 5 km. They are above different valleys- Broad Peak is above Godwin-Austen Glacier and Gasherbrums are above Abruzzi Glacier. The only thing between G1 and G2 is a nasty alpine ridge about 2km long.

""Gasherbrum II is the third highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram range of the Himalaya." WTF? G2, so if Hidden peak is the tallest and G2 is third, what peaks is in between? So is it Himalaya or Karakoram? from http://www.thenorthfacejournal.com/gasherbrum-2-winter-expedition/

Looks like much less snow from third week of July. That snowpatch at the base of NE ridge was much bigger. I think we did it in 3 "pitches".Friggin great route just run up and down.

I think BD did some testing on the screamers some time ago and basically there is no science behind them, The same way as placing screws at 90 degrees plus makes them more prone to failure.

I don't know wtf are you talking about? That pretty much includes everything along Duffy except for the very tops of peaks like Joffree. It's supposed to get a bit colder high up, so if it doesn't snow too much Wed would be a day to hit some alpine? But for now even on Carls Berg you'll need some fins and snorkel. http://www.whistlerblackcomb.com/weather/advisory/index.htm "We have received approximately 45 mm of precipitation in the past couple of days. There was some rain at least to 2200 m, but the bulk of the precipitation at that elevation fell as snow. Below 1700m the rain predominated. Subsequent cooling temperatures today have resulted in somewhat challenging and variable conditions. Choose your elevation wisely ? the higher alpine terrain is the place to be. As you drop lower, you may begin to break through a crust into the moist underlying layers."

I don't know where you get your info. http://www.whistlerblackcomb.com/weather/live/index.htm shows it's hardly freezing even at the top of whistler. Cache Creek was above freezing last 48 hours.

Dane, I don't think it is "West Coast Ice", since this thing is about 6-7 hours drive from Vancouver. If I have to drive that far for a 145m route, might as well go to the Rockies, which by that time is only another 2.5 hours. While some stuff formed up this year, a lot of stuff did not- like White Blotter was pretty much non existent on the bottom. We are fooling ourselves if we claim having consistent and good ice around.

It's funny that you ask- for Rockies standard a bit, but for costal ice not at all, but there was a bit of open water under the snow. On the last bit it was dripping for about 8-10m section i climbed on, but it was about -15C. My gloves were a wee wet on last pitch, but over all I managed to stay dry.

Sorry to turn it into spray, but what is classic about watching people way over their heads. Last Sunday, we witnessed just this, kind of scary considering the location, conditions and time of the day. I am glad this guy bailed out, but people should stay within their range for ice. Accidents happen to even the best, but these situations are becoming way to frequent, hence in last 10 years I was involved with help in 3 cases, mostly easily avoidable. Being keen on climbing is one thing, but being way over your head is another. Placing 8-10 screws every 5 feet is the later. If the ice is so shit, why bother with gear- you are soloing at the moment and placing gear is just a waste of time and energy. If the ice is good- why place so much? So the comments like: way to stay with it and such are just feeding the troll, because someone should maybe say, climb some easier routes, get some mileage/ experience under your belt, get to know different types of ice, get to know your limits. Doing comfortably WI4 instead getting over your head on WI5 doesn't make you any lesser of the climber. On the contrary- just safer and smarter and in the long run- better

That's a stupid advice.

??! Much can be learned from this photo. Yes, that reminds me of the party ahead of us on The Plum last afternoon.

The Plum is in as good of a shape as it gets. 70m single will gets you down, the rap from the V-thread on the top is a bit of a rope stretcher. Just don't follow the donkey trail at the beginning, cut left in the initial opening under the power line, or you'll end up in the drainage to the South and you'll have to traverse around the buttress. It's more like WI4/4+ shape at the moment.

Yes, thanks to republican "economics" we are in the total shitter. When I moved here in 1987 this country stood for something. Right now thanks to pukes like sarah palin, glen beck or rush limbough and jizz gurgling followers of likes as fw or kkk this country stands for fuck all.

Kill'em all They do exist, not through health care reform though.

Hey fw, how is the pig fucking business going?

Surprised- hardly at all. Just stating facts baby, that cheesus worshiping, gun touting "new republifucs" are as full of shit as ever. And 4 days after taking control of the house they already dropped 2 key point of their agenda, on which apparently they were elected by uneducated populous- like FW and KKK.

Promise what you can't deliver I am looking forward to their fulfillment of the promise to fix the economy and job creation- in China or Vietnam. Trickle down economics and deregulation is what ruined this country in the first place, so why are you morons trying to do this all over again?

REad

Guy Lacelle and prof. Slawinski.