glassgowkiss

Really? when your climbing partner gives you a rack of draws, do you individually test them? Because I never did (even though I climb now for 35 years). I am probably going to start now, but up to now I never did beyond just a visual glance. Sure as heck I have learned from my and others mistakes, and I feel lucky this way, I guess others are less lucky. But throwing prosecution into this mix is a dangerous path for all climbers, as mistakes always will happen, I just hope it's not me.

This is kind of scary: Read I realize people are upset, but this is looking for a scapegoat at it's best!

still moving, at some point next year. vegas baby!

I am looking for a solid partner for RR or Zion. 5.10 and up, mostly interested in longer stuff. crazypolishbob at gmail. i'll have a rope/full rack.

FEAR! I mean wtf? fire creating it's own weather? duh dumbshit- nothing new. Sequoiadendron giganteum are fucking FIRE RESISTANT! Yes dumb fuck, they actually NEED fire, so the cones can open. And this fire has nothing to do with global warming. How about misguided policy of fire suppression starting in 1974. How about clear cutting and replanting monocultures? How about people building houses in a middle of the forest. It's the same nonsense, with building on the flood planes. That whole article is just fear mongering at it's best.

I would suggest going to the Rockies, should be prime time for either rock or mix.

have anyone actually consider a possibility of a suicide?

Doug, you are correct- he was with Kukuczka on Annapurna. To correct Planet Mountain the story is: both climbers were descending. There was a text message sent from Hajzer's phone to Hajzer's wife with message that Kaczkan (Haizer's partner) fell in Japanese couloir. Turns out it was sent from the base by (probably) the cook. In reality both were descending in windy conditions. Kaczkan looked up and saw Hajzer tumbling down. He saw him stopping about 500m below. Kaczkan descended to the place where Hajzer stopped and saw his partner was dead. The confusion about Kaczkan's fall is due to the text message sent from Hajzer's phone, but this information turns out inaccurate.

Looks like one of the last members of the "Golden Era" of polish alpinism from the 70's and 80's just died on G1. Artur Hajzer is presumed dead. He was Kukuczka's partner from the attempt on South Face of Lhotse, when Kukuczka died after his rope snapped. He was one of the few remaining active members of the "art of suffering" group. Looks like his luck have run out- RIP. P.S.- he climbed 7 out of 14 8000m peaks, some of them in winter, all without oxygen.

you made me spill my coffee through the nose!

First hand account

From Steve Swenson

Here is a first hand account: in Polish So first of all, Northern Pakistan is no longer a safe place. The group announced they are targeting all the foreigners. The killings were reprisal for killings of Bin Laden. At the moment Pakistani army is doing very little to capture the group or secure tourist.

well, you might want to re-think it twice. Wielicki just canceled winter expedition to Nanga Parbat.

Let's start with some facts. First of all, this is not the first time Taliban attacked in that area. There are at least 3 attacks in the past 3 years, most famous one was on a cricket team from Sri Lanka in 2009. There were several instances of sectarian violence, mostly going unreported by the press in the US. Killed people were infidel, killed Pakistani was Shias, and this was the sole reason he was killed.

These killings were religiously motivated, so the logic is sound.

Among dead are know climbers Peter Sperka and Igor Svergun. http://www.petersperka.sk/en/index-en.html RIP

victims more info

This is fucked.

I would not recommend plastic bags, as soft plastics (at least in the US) contain BPA and Phosphoric Acid. In a heat (trunk of a cur or any other hot place) both will be contaminating whatever they are toughing. I am not sure about BPA ((CH3)2C(C6H4OH)2), but Phosphoric Acid (H3PO4) would have exact same results as other acids over a longer period.

Read: here

Which part of no SAR on the ledge for 3 hours you have hard time comprehending? There was no need to move anyone to just get by them. Having fewer people on the ledge, while conducting rescue, would have been safer for everyone. But you just keep posting your self-righteous bullshit.

You are just a genuine idiot. Have you even done this route? Feeling better after spewing a bunch of meaningless bullshit on your soapbox?

for the record, I climbed on the same route with the party right behind injured climbers on Sunday. With all due respect- I doubt Perry was conducting interviews about what was said and done before SAR arrived. I talked to them about it for about 10 minutes, so the account given is fairly accurate. Climbers in question were quite young, but very competent. I also have done this route over 10 times, and do not believe that there was a logical reason not to climb past them. Also the second party did not have medical training or supplies to provide any meaningful help.

sure, what do you expect from a polak?