glassgowkiss

This kind of language only serves to further expose you. You won't care of course, but you should... d Not sure why. (Please tell me.) Meantime, feel free to defend a president who has no regard for the Constitution re immigration law or his own healthcare law, uses the IRS as a political tool, spies on citizens and allies alike, and uses the Justice Dept to harass reporters. Like I said, thanks for the dictator. You should be ashamed. Congress had 6 years to fix immigration. What they accomplished is jack and shit. Why don't you mention this? Actually- this is the only logical step in face of House absentia. This is a Republican Congress, that passed the least legislation in the entire history of Congress. I mean Obama with all his faults has approval rating 3 times higher then the House- which is about 10%.

Shooting an unarmed man is legal and moral? wtf? The guy is an idiot, with total lack of judgment. So he is trying to apprehend a suspect in a petty theft, by himself in a totally black area, by grabbing him from the truck? Do you think after having his finger blown off by a bullet Michael Brown was thinking logically? This idiot is nothing but a thug with a badge.

We rapped the route. The glacier was so open, it was getting dark and with 70m ropes Polish route gets you down in 3 raps. I would imagine the top is a death trap after snow fall, and even a small slide would be pretty unforgiving in consequences. Top rap took some creativity, but he rest was easy V-threads.

Actually it has already several ascents, nice line though.

bullshit. Short and unpredictable season is what eliminates this destination from the possibility of "world class". As far as ice Norway, Iceland or Scotland or even the Alps ARE world class. Canadian Rockies ARE world class, because they are consistent and have quality climbing. Gee, which part of this equation can't you grasp? And I still stand by my statement. People will climb Cascade when they show up for a trip, but I haven't yet met a person, who would fly half way around the world just to climb this specific line. But I have on Trophy Wall and on SGH. BTW, speaking of experience- which routes have you done of either?

You have heard wrong. I just had msg exchange with him, and he has not done the route to the top. Sounds like we were lucky in 2000, as far as how the route formed. He stated he did the bottom already 4 times.

Blake, there were several attempts on the line in the 90's. Yes, we found slings are stuff from previous attempts, but (according to several sources) nobody really went up to the top of the line. If there was someone, who climbed it, please come forward, I really don't care. Interestingly there were also slings to the left and right of the line. Maybe folks climbed (like Darin suggested) first part, and then traversed to the right, maybe some of the smears at the base? I saw red slings way to the left, about 30-40ft, in a middle of nowhere. If Roger Strong climbed it, it had to be this Fall, because when I talked to him a couple of seasons ago at Index it was not the case. Jason did a bit of a research for his book, and he could not find any info about actual ascent prior to October of 2000. Like I said, all of these routes should be trade routes for aspiring hardcores. East Face of Pyramid, Colfax, and Chiwawa. I mean the last one looks like a dream line, that people should be lining up for.

Hard to judge when viewing a small pic. When we did it, there was absolutely no snow, I mean all the snow was left from the previous winter/spring. It looked very similar. Climbing was more mental then pumpy. Bottom is reasonable and moderate. Crux is short, possible WI4-5, but it did not take pro very well (I did bring only 1 stubby). Finding anchors on top, after the last bit was a challenge, but over all a fun outing. Also Chiwawa's Intravenous (Colin's route from way back days) most definitely should get an ascent (or a first repeat). Probably both routes (Rat's and my on Pyramid) are also good outings. I just have a feeling like most of climbers around here just keep climbing the same, moderate outings, and nobody wants to push things forward.

Thanks for the update/TR. Kind of sad that polish route is still unrepeated after 14 years.

world class is something people will travel from all over the planet to do, and the fact is almost nobody is traveling to SW BC to get on ice routes. At the same time, there are people traveling to Iceland, Norway and Canadian Rockies, because these areas ARE world class. And trust me- people do not travel to Alberta to climb the Cascade, but they do to do Terminator or routes on SGH.

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/drew-ruana-sends-just-do-it-514c

Actually, he turned 15 in July. Yes 14c and does not even have driver license!

Basically I don't give a shit who is calling me. If they are third party, and they say they call on behalf of Google+, then I am not going to launch a phone forensic investigation, who is actually calling me. If they are trying to sell me services as Google+, then I am having beef with Google+. And for fuck sakes, why don't they actually train people, if they want them to call on their behalf? And if the robo monkey tells me "I need their services, but I don't know it yet", I consider it a cunt treatment and I do not want to be treated like a fucking cunt.

sounds like you need some psychological therapy, as you already have one serious injury, most likely from over training, and now you are on a trajectory for another one.

Drear Google plus. Please stop calling my cellphone number, stop trying to talk to "business owner", stop trying to sell me crap, stop pushing your services, AND STOP TREATING ME LIKE AN IDIOT!!!!! You are not going to have a friendly conversation with me if you respond to my request of taking my name off your calling list by saying: "you need our services, but you don't know it yet" I know exactly what I need and what I don't need. What I don't need is you treating me like a cunt. I will never use Google plus. EVER.

which I have done twice. along with Replicant and Sea of Vapors also 2 times. Yes, Terminator is world class, so are a lot of climbs on Stanley Glacier headwall. There is nothing on the Coast, that is that long, that nice, that steep and that hard. That is what definition of world class is. What we have here is just OK, we do it, because there is nothing better to do. However it's far from world class.

The fact is this area is shit for ice, period. Just to prove my point I have done more then 50% climbs listed in West Coast Ice, and since according to you I have done shit, but climbed 50% of lines, then this area doesn't really offer shit.

Just Do It, Just Do It, Just Did It!!! Drew sent Just Do It on Monkey Face (14c if you ask).

Dru, these climbs are OK, but far from "world class". Mousetrap is mediocre at it's best, even at best of times, usually they are wet as hell. Plumb by Pemberton has a lot of easy ice and walking, practically it has only 2 pitches you have to use rope on. From my experience the only 2 climbs I have do so far on parr with Rockies has to offer is White Blotter and As Seen on TV. Probably Kryptonite column would be a good climb, but I have never seen it formed at the bottom, even in 2002/03 season- with almost 3 weeks of sea level freezing themps.

If it's below freezing at sea level, there are some OK routes towards Hope- about 1 hour drive. There are some routes along lower Frazier Canyon, beyond Hope, along Hwy 1 and Hwy 5 (Transcanada). These are approx. 1.5 hour drive. Squamish can be decent- for about 2-3 days every third or fourth season. There are numbers of mix alpine lines on Pyramid and Colonial Peaks. There is a pretty big ice pillar on a bench below Colonial/Pyramid Peak Glaciers, however not an easy place to get to or safe if there is any snow accumulation. There are 2 lines on Colfax, I bet they are already pretty snowed in. To be honest, your best bet is Golden/Field area in B.C.

Crimson is famous for ropes hanging on the descent. They probably thought they were doing you a favor, unless they ended up hanging them. yeah, that was the only time I had to flick the rope off flakes. Actually ropes went down just fine otherwise. People think they are doing you a favor, but this is a single worst thing you can do.

on shrooms

The best support for your friend would be donating the cash.

Black Dagger, Bourbon Street, heck, even Olive Oil are probably much better then CC. I have not done Community Pillar, but I will try next time. Also Juniper Hedgehog sounds like "adventure". I also have not done Refrigerator Buttress, but it also is most likely a great route, with lot's of character. It really baffles me why Crimson Chrysalis is so highly recommended. Honestly, there was nothing special about it at all. BTW, the only fuck up on raps was, when we rapped through the last party, and idiot grabbed the end of my rope and tossed it down- the best practice is just to let the rope go through on it's own.

I had super fun 12 days at RR. Took my wife on Crimson Chrysalis- fun route, but honestly- doesn't have to get gang-banged like this at all. There is absolutely nothing special about this route, and there are a ton of other routes of that sort- all people have to do is open a guidebook and move their ass. Ginger Cracks is tad harder, but with a lot more character, almost entire route can be climbed without bolts. We were lucky, as we were first on the route, and 2 parties behind were pretty efficient, which made raping through them fairly easy. However this has a potential for a complete cluster f…, something that probably happens all the time. Since I happened to run into many folks from PNW at RR, I just wanted to share this. Also going to Black Velvet with a rental sedan will be marginal at best at the moment. The last creek crossing is getting quite beat up, so prepare yourself for slow driving and navigating holes (we rented Camry).