glassgowkiss

Basically I don't give a shit who is calling me. If they are third party, and they say they call on behalf of Google+, then I am not going to launch a phone forensic investigation, who is actually calling me. If they are trying to sell me services as Google+, then I am having beef with Google+. And for fuck sakes, why don't they actually train people, if they want them to call on their behalf? And if the robo monkey tells me "I need their services, but I don't know it yet", I consider it a cunt treatment and I do not want to be treated like a fucking cunt.

sounds like you need some psychological therapy, as you already have one serious injury, most likely from over training, and now you are on a trajectory for another one.

Drear Google plus. Please stop calling my cellphone number, stop trying to talk to "business owner", stop trying to sell me crap, stop pushing your services, AND STOP TREATING ME LIKE AN IDIOT!!!!! You are not going to have a friendly conversation with me if you respond to my request of taking my name off your calling list by saying: "you need our services, but you don't know it yet" I know exactly what I need and what I don't need. What I don't need is you treating me like a cunt. I will never use Google plus. EVER.

which I have done twice. along with Replicant and Sea of Vapors also 2 times. Yes, Terminator is world class, so are a lot of climbs on Stanley Glacier headwall. There is nothing on the Coast, that is that long, that nice, that steep and that hard. That is what definition of world class is. What we have here is just OK, we do it, because there is nothing better to do. However it's far from world class.

The fact is this area is shit for ice, period. Just to prove my point I have done more then 50% climbs listed in West Coast Ice, and since according to you I have done shit, but climbed 50% of lines, then this area doesn't really offer shit.

Just Do It, Just Do It, Just Did It!!! Drew sent Just Do It on Monkey Face (14c if you ask).

Dru, these climbs are OK, but far from "world class". Mousetrap is mediocre at it's best, even at best of times, usually they are wet as hell. Plumb by Pemberton has a lot of easy ice and walking, practically it has only 2 pitches you have to use rope on. From my experience the only 2 climbs I have do so far on parr with Rockies has to offer is White Blotter and As Seen on TV. Probably Kryptonite column would be a good climb, but I have never seen it formed at the bottom, even in 2002/03 season- with almost 3 weeks of sea level freezing themps.

If it's below freezing at sea level, there are some OK routes towards Hope- about 1 hour drive. There are some routes along lower Frazier Canyon, beyond Hope, along Hwy 1 and Hwy 5 (Transcanada). These are approx. 1.5 hour drive. Squamish can be decent- for about 2-3 days every third or fourth season. There are numbers of mix alpine lines on Pyramid and Colonial Peaks. There is a pretty big ice pillar on a bench below Colonial/Pyramid Peak Glaciers, however not an easy place to get to or safe if there is any snow accumulation. There are 2 lines on Colfax, I bet they are already pretty snowed in. To be honest, your best bet is Golden/Field area in B.C.

Crimson is famous for ropes hanging on the descent. They probably thought they were doing you a favor, unless they ended up hanging them. yeah, that was the only time I had to flick the rope off flakes. Actually ropes went down just fine otherwise. People think they are doing you a favor, but this is a single worst thing you can do.

on shrooms

The best support for your friend would be donating the cash.

Black Dagger, Bourbon Street, heck, even Olive Oil are probably much better then CC. I have not done Community Pillar, but I will try next time. Also Juniper Hedgehog sounds like "adventure". I also have not done Refrigerator Buttress, but it also is most likely a great route, with lot's of character. It really baffles me why Crimson Chrysalis is so highly recommended. Honestly, there was nothing special about it at all. BTW, the only fuck up on raps was, when we rapped through the last party, and idiot grabbed the end of my rope and tossed it down- the best practice is just to let the rope go through on it's own.

I had super fun 12 days at RR. Took my wife on Crimson Chrysalis- fun route, but honestly- doesn't have to get gang-banged like this at all. There is absolutely nothing special about this route, and there are a ton of other routes of that sort- all people have to do is open a guidebook and move their ass. Ginger Cracks is tad harder, but with a lot more character, almost entire route can be climbed without bolts. We were lucky, as we were first on the route, and 2 parties behind were pretty efficient, which made raping through them fairly easy. However this has a potential for a complete cluster f…, something that probably happens all the time. Since I happened to run into many folks from PNW at RR, I just wanted to share this. Also going to Black Velvet with a rental sedan will be marginal at best at the moment. The last creek crossing is getting quite beat up, so prepare yourself for slow driving and navigating holes (we rented Camry).

did sens you txt msg.

I have a question regarding 10 center punches? So on that token if I drop down 1000m on N Face of Shuksan and drop off a 50m on Shuksan arm- do they count the same? However in general tend to see now ski movies a border line snuff films.

Rainier Now with ski season approaching fast this is mandatory read for all backcountry users: Danger rating chart "Someone who randomly center punches 10 slopes per day in terrain rated as Moderate Danger is roughly the same risk as whitewater kayaking or skydiving (but still much less dangerous than riding a motorcycle). Center punching 10 slopes per day in terrain rated as Considerable Danger has roughly the same risk as base jumping, which is considered to be one of the world’s most dangerous sports and one with a notoriously short expected lifespan for regular participants. Doing the same in terrain rated as High Danger is one of the most dangerous activities in the world besides climbing above 8,000 meters." No wonder extreme upper end skiers/snowboarders are dying like flies (kind of reminds me of 80's and early 90's high altitude climbers).

Life on Earth requires 2 ropes to rap, but there a new line on W face, you can rap from the summit with one 60m rope and deposits you on the saddle W of Habrich. Then it's just a matter of hiking a good trail down. This route is called Escape Velocity, it's overrated and overbolted, but it cuts down on clutter of having 2 ropes.

prtect children, protect the Necronomicon…..

Smith can also suffer from freezing fog for days at that time of the year, and if that is the case you are s.o.l.

Jtree can be cold and windy- some of the crags in Jtree are above 5000ft. Vegas has a slew of climbing besides Red Rocks. There are a couple of dozen crags within 1 hour drive ( mostly limestone), a lot of them have fair amount of sun, and they are also at relatively low elevation. Jtree to Red Rocks is more like 4.5 hour drive, I have done it several times, and unless you are severely braking speed limit there is no way in hell making it in 3 hours (google maps can confirm my drive time). There are crags around St George UT as well- St George is about 90 minutes from Vegas. There is a guide book for the crags around Vegas: http://www.amazon.com/Islands-sky-guidebook-climbing-limestone/dp/1873341318 I would not recommend Canmore in January for ice- short days, can be brutally cold. Probably Vegas gives you the most options- sport climbing, longer routes if it's sunny/no wind, plus January is their low season, so you can find hotel rooms for about $30/night mid week.

Hahaha, yes Rudolph Jr. The comp was held in New Caledonia.

I want to congratulate Drew Ruana for his second place in Youth Climbing World Championships. US climbers did really well, Kai Lightinger took Gold, and Drew is bringing Silver (Youth B category). Way to go!!!!

Thanks!

Is there a guidebook or some online info regarding routes around Marcus and China Bend? I was thinking about heading there for a few days this fall. Also is there truck camping?