glassgowkiss

Yeah, probably not the best call. It sounds like he was knocked off the slope, above Pencil Traverse.

Thanks for posting. This could happen to anyone climbing in Canada.

Yeah, what a class act- NOT. Tossing your award at the end, like it meant nothing was really showing his character. Broadcasters said, they did not interview the winner, because he did not speak english. A guy who doesn't speak english understood the rules, but Daniel Woods did not- what a lame ass excuse. How about saying someone else just climb better?

So some unknown guy from Iran shows up and wins ABS. Show some frigging class Daniel Woods. Sorry, but you behaved like a tool, in front of everyone to see. Yes, no doubt you are strong, but you behaved like a total d-bag. And btw, why are commentators NOT interviewing a winner? Again- totally lame and uncalled for. Maybe you should have done some due diligence beforehand and find out about each and every competitor, so you are not caught with your pants down. Read and video link

Very simple explanation. For one, you actually have to know how to climb technical terrain to get up on stuff in the Alps. N Ridge of Stuart (have not done entire ridge) has a pitch and a half of actual climbing, and the rest of it can be done with running belays (if you are a competent 5.9 climber). Slessee has 3-4 pitches, even if you do direct. Even Becky-Chuinard is technically very moderate. Alaska and Alps are apples and oranges. Alaska is an adventure in a big range, Alps is very civilized by comparison. You sleep in bed, take showers and can hang out indoors if the weather is crap. Third- not all people from this area post on cc.com. Colin and Marc are staying in Patagonia sending, while we are talking what are the best routes.

I bet his body recovery will have to wait till the snow melts.

great news! Congratulations!

Did not say if it was avi related, possible accident during climbing or rapping. Yeah, looks like not a good idea to go into any gullies for a while, on Saturday even below tree line rating is considerable.

Colin i Mark returned to the range after a short rest. They climbed "El Arca de los Vientos" via new variation called "Directa de la Mentira." This is their second Cerro Torre summit in just 2 weeks!

No, but I can see how NPS in Yosemite implements permits for climbing on El Capitan and on Half Dome within next few years. The reason- a bunch of fucktards, inspired by Tommy and Kevin, and completely without clue or ability, will start getting into big trouble (read high profile rescues) while attempting to get their 5 minutes of fame. It has happened- Denali.

Yes, I have heard. Wasted one day because a partner bailed last minute (yeah, you know who you are). And then this friggin job thing. It helps to have windows longer then 2-3 days if you are a working person.

READ I have to agree with the whole thing 100%. Most definitely this will be the long term fallout: "My fear for climbing is that once we drink from the mainstream chalice, which obviously began a long time ago and has been a part of climbing ever since, we lose control. Media climbing is escalating massively given modern technology and my fear is this, how long is it in today’s society, a society of government cuts and austerity, before the consequences of putting ourselves out into the public domain hit – how long before government takes notice and regulations begin? "

This is one of the worst ice seasons on the coast I can remember.

I would take them for $5 for my gear museum. Seriously, don't think you will have too many takers for this price.

Good one!

Usually when I read about accidents, it is a chain of mistakes combined with some bad luck. For one- being anchored just with one sling to one tree was probably one of such decisions. Glad you survived to tell the tale.

Fixed that for you Oh, that too. But I have a bigger issue with selling public lands and having private companies running their businesses in these areas. THAT IS A CORPORATE WELFARE, pure and simple.

The only problem with wild areas is- they are wild. Not enough mcdonalds, 7/11 and convenience stores selling shit.

Uh, maybe they will because the marketplace needs these skills and will demand it? Isn't this why businesses offer benefits in the first place? Can you give an example of an RN working 36--32--even 24 hours weekly who isn't offered medical benefits? My wife is in the medical field, and anyone working over 24hrs/week gets benefits. You are one stupid tosser, proving once again you know absolutely about the subject matter you are discussing. So let me enlighten your backward thinking sorry ass. After Reagan signed into law, anyone working 30 hours or more is considerate full time employee. Nurses work on mostly 12 hour shift schedule, so most of them work 3x12 hours=36 hours. Under current law, they have to receive benefit as FT employees. People who work now under 30 hours can receive benefits, but the contribution will be reduced. So what it will mean for me and my wife is simple fact, that republifuck assholes will force us to pay more then a double rate for the health insurance. So it's not about receiving benefits, but at what rate. May your waits be long, and injections painful. Why do nurses deserve special treatment over anyone else working a swing shift? Do you even know what "swing shift" means? You are just one, confused individual, like a little child, who is interrupting an adult conversation and has no idea, what gown-ups are talking about. This has nothing to do with "swing shift" (which if you bothered to look up means usually 8 hour work period from about 3 to 11:30pm), but it has to do with definition of 40 hour work week, as "full time". Under current law if you work 30 hours per week and above, you are working full time. That is a legal definition, what "full time employment" means. The attempt to change to 40 hours per week would have very far reaching consequences for EVERYONE in the future. First and foremost: unemployment, and unemployment benefits. Basically anyone working on a 12 hour schedule would not qualify for full benefits. That not only would include hospital workers, but also emergency response personnel, military contractors and government contractors, air traffic controllers, refinery operators- we can go on with the list of jobs included. The estimate was roughly 18-20 million people would be effected. Paid short term disability insurance- (like AFLAC), which has to pay premiums for short term disability for full time workers, but it will not pay anyone working on part time basis. Have you thought about these issues moron, before shooting your mouth off here?

The place is a choss pile, and it's OK to visit for a day, but honestly a total waste of time if you plan on going there for a whole week. Rock quality is mediocre, routes are very repetitive. Probably Trout Creek (if it's not closed for raptor nesting during that time), combined with some Smith action would be much more advisable. Another good option for March would be Skaha in B.C. by Penticton. Daytime temps should be OK for climbing in the sun. The cliffs face mostly East or West, so you can climb in the shade or in the sun all day long. Free camping is a bit of a ghetto there, but manageable. Also be careful with rattlesnakes in Tieton. I have never seen more rattlesnakes in on place then in the canyon. I found a rattlesnake under my rope bag. I had several of them slithering through my rope on the ground. I have also seen a couple of times rattlesnakes inside cracks. Since you are in Bend, and want to get out of town, Owens River George by Bishop would be a better place to visit. A further drive would land you in limestone by Ely, NV. Red Rocks would be prime for climbing during that time (albeit probably wee crowded during that spring brake), but it's far better destination then Tieton.

Basically what Colin and Rolo did- in reverse.

From Colin on FB: "Yesterday I hiked out of the mountains very tired and content. On Jan 18 Marc-André Leclerc and I approached to the Col de Esperanza, and over the following three and half days we traversed the Torres from south to north, starting with the Ragni Route on Cerro Torre, and finishing with El Caracol on Cerro Standhardt. I had attempted this traverse in 2012 with Jon Walsh, but we were thwarted by storm. This time there were moments when I thought we wouldn't pull it off, but we persevered, and more importantly the good weather lasted long enough, with the wind gusts finally getting strong only during our last three rappels to the glacier. This photo is looking down the last pitch of El Caracol, which is probably the most difficult pitch of the traverse, digging through vertical rime to aid off the knifeblade crack underneath (Although no pitches on the traverse are extremely difficult - it's more of an endurance and logistics challenge). For three days I had been rushing as much as possible, but at this point I finally relaxed and took my time, because with only 40 meters left to Standhardt's summit I knew it would take a raging tempest to convince us to turn around. @mdre92, twenty-two years old, is a very talented climber. His only previous climb in Patagonia was El Mocho, and on day one his unfamiliarity with the terrain on Cerro Torre was evident, but he adapted amazingly quickly, made an awesome climbing partner for our first ever climb together, and by day three he was a veteran of climbing on the Torres. We are naming our climb the Traversia del Oso Buddha. "Oso" for Bjørn-Eivind Årtun ("Bjørn" means bear in Norwegian, "Oso" means bear in Spanish), and Buddha for Chad Kellogg. This traverse was first envisioned by Bjørn-Eivind, and we made plans to attempt it together in 2011. The first attempt was made by Bjørn-Eivind and Chad in early 2012 - Bjørn-Eivind was killed by rockfall a couple weeks later in Norway, and Chad was killed by rockfall about one year later on Cerro Chaltén. They were both amazing, inspiring climbers and wonderful people, and I wish I could tell them that Bjørn's dream has come true" All I can say- wow! A truly world class route, without hype and spray.

Fuck that. Wilderness Area = lack of access. The FS probably loves Wilderness because they don't have to do shit. No roads to maintain, no services to provide. They just send a trail crew with a couple hand saws in every few years to maintain the one trail and call it good. Not lack of access, but making access on need to access basis. We build roads to the edge of wilderness, and then we issue permits how many wankers we allow into the same wilderness per day. No need for permits for Northern Pickets. You can still hike in. WTF is wrong with you people? Not everything has to be convenient.

The moment you put infrastructure, these places stop being "wild". They simply exclude one another. And that is the crux of the issue. We build the roads to the very edge of the wild, and then we issue permits, because we are artificially overcrowding places to begin with. Wonder- how many visitors would there be, if you would have to hike into Yosemite Valley for 6 or 8 hours? How many people would try to get up Rainier, if there was no road going to Paradise? One just might imagine, how much money Curry Company made of Yosemite so far. BTW, these places don't have to be subsidized, they do no need infrastructure- what they need is to be left alone.

Looks like shit for the next week or so. Even Marble Canyon will be above freezing for the next few days. Cache Creek is predicted to have 13C during day and 6C at night on Sunday.