glassgowkiss

i have heard about dremmol tool used for sharpening. the only question is how it effects the heat treatment of the metal. plus you can do some real damage. after all, they use cnc machines to get the teeth manufactured. i use a very small metal file, flat on one side and rouded on the other. i also modify pick, when i put them on. i take down the first tooth, so it hooks better on edges. i was convienced about the sharpness of the picks in 95. my pick broke on ribbon pitch on polar circus and i climbed 3 pitches with broken pick, at -20C. it took about 1 swing more to get good stick, then the other hand.

i don't bother anymore. maybe like 1 or 2 times a season. i keep the screws sharp, but in no way it matter as far as tools and crampons are concerned.maybe on some ultra thin ice, but then again, they will be dull in a couple of swings anyway

well, this topic (as usual) deterirated to spray session from hell. keep up the good work. i won't be around for new year this time. i'll be drawing some sheep on unsuspecting fuckers in ontario and quebec, shshshshseeeeepppppshshshshsaaaaaaggggg

hello? ding-dong morning bells are ringing. so why do you think it is like that? do you think the majority of these people choose to be uninsured? i can give you quite a few names of people dropped by insurance company as soon as there was a serious health problem. and the myth of going to the practitioner of your choice? yeah a myth as the person you want to see have to be on the providership list. well all i can say canadian system looks better and better every day. oh btw can anyone tell me this. a friend of my had distal tib/fib fx a couple of years ago. he was in hospital in calgary for 3 days, had surgery. his total bill from the surgery and hospital was about 7400 can. when he had his hardware removed in boulder he was told the same surgery would have been over 20 000usd. can anybody tell me why such discrepency between the prices?

that has bnothing to do with insurance premium increase, since it's less then 1% of the cost. it has to do with inurance structure (insurance companies make the most money of the stock market investments with your premiums). it has also to do with insurance processing claims, something like 120-150 days on average. that is the biggest cause if rate increase among health care providers. that and payment refusal for services- yet a lot of clinics get stuck with unpaid bills. insurance company refuses to pay and a person doesn't have to resources to cover it either. no- more like thatnks to Bush and his administration for not dealing with the problem. madical savings accounts are not the answer, the reform of a stupid system is. a lot of clinics and practitioners do not accept any insurance anymore. they'll provide you with "walk-out receipt" or "superbill", you pay at the time of service and try to get your money back from the insurance.

your wife is expensive?

yeah, i'll pm you a bm. i'll piss in your sandbox anytime i want asseyes.

honeslty it was a time issue. krzysiek had to be at work monday morning, so did i. i don't think we would be able to walk out that evening. red wall wonderers is an adventure and fun climbing in one. and no river crossings.

now they'll have a bunch of members.......

rat you dolt, like it's worth fucking driving 3 hours, trying to cross a river for 2 pitches of WI4? don't think so. "you're a total fucking pussy"- hey, aren't you the one who didn't climb on pyramid a couple of years ago, saying it was too thin- asswipe?

so blowboarder you are in a minority. rudy- this might have to do with strenghth vs proprioception training (time spent on rock). also don't forget that you can climb only as hard as your weakest link will let you (forearms). your maximum power might be up, but how you use it ia a question. pure strength/endurance training only gives you a good base. climbing (on real rock!) makes you efficient at it. this is what gives you ability to use as little strength and still stick the hold.

healthcare is in state of total crisis. i know- i work in healthcare. insurance companies can thank only themselves for being in financial trouble. killing preventetive approach in medicine has the end result in the form of 70% of people overweight or obese. bin laden is not a threat to the US- the shape an average joe IS. anything that has to do with accident on a property or in a car is not covered by health insurance.

not true at all! you are comparing apples and oranges. maximum power has to do with fast twitch fibers and endurance has to do with slow twitch fibers. so person b workout format might be endurance, hence they can squat more with 50 lbs then person a. now this is my experiience, that a 180lbs person will do fewer pull ups then a 130 lbs pesron (the same fitness level of course). and show me how many people over 200 lbs can do a single pull up with let's say 45 lbs on their belt. now i am not that strong, but i can crank at least 4 at this moment without mouch weight training in the past 5 years.

you can see it from the road, at least the upper part. total nightmare- by the time you organize a boat, drive up there, cross the river might as well drive to the rockies and climb some real ice. you might want to check stuff on duffy lake road- much more reliable then washington.

nope. muscle is inefficient at staying warm. even worse at altitude. and a poor source of energy compared to fat. you guys need more time reading and less computer time. both statements are dead wrong. dru- muscle tissue is what generates heat, not fat. the reason you feel cold is oxygen level in your bloodstream. staying warm is not related to your total body mass. off course a smaller person will radiate heat faster, but it will also warm up faster with movement. this first statement is soooo bs. now why would you need a big pack in the mountains anyway? with modern gear your gear should not go over 35lbs anyway. sorry pal, but i can tell you have never been on a harder pitch (12 and up). bacause if you climbed such stuff you'd know that your forearms is what goes first. higher the body mass harder your forearms work. both of you need to freshen' up on some basic physiology and excercise physiology. werd

you might have an issue (like a lot of climbers) with tight chest, lateral neck muscles. this can (among other things) cause subclavian artery impingment, hence the blood flow to your upper extermities is decreased. with your hands way above you head for prolonged period of time, the restriction might be severe.

ps with -12C in Clinton and -11C on the top of 7th heaven i don't see why people wouldn't try to climb in marble and on husume. but if you head to little wet don't forget your vecro gloves (not for dry tooling)

agreed, but there's a better social life in the Mile O. cheers, lilooet social life oh yeah forgot velcro gloves and high boots, the edge of the cliff and salt lick. with the mill closing down and bc rail selling the to canadian pacific i would think that in 5 years that town will be nothing more then a bunch of borded up empty places with amphetamine operation now and then. oh yeah, don't forget the dart tournaments....

i was climbing in marble last week of november. the good side is that with all the rain there should be plenty of water to form the routes when (?????) it gets cold.

Don, i think the solution is to set some more routes in the area. the whole wall to the left of pan dome is one possibility. there is a whole bunch of not so steep cliffs and with little imagination this would be a very accessible training ground for the situation like we are having right now- no rock or ice climbing within 4 hours of driving. at this moment i am lacking a drill, so my options are limmited.

rat does it answer your question? it's the same principle as not hacking on early season ice in marble canyon.

side note about tool shed routes: there is much less now right now at the base, hence you have to climb at least 15 more feet before clipping the first bolt. i dicked in some shitty kb before doing couple of long pulls (remember- you have to get about 25 ft before you can clip the first piece). M7 should get rebolted, so one actually can find the bolts as they get covered in snow and ice. pls also no thrashing on these routes. be delicate, as the rock is so-so and some of the edges are very critical for free ascent.

luke, not jonny dawes but jim dunn. jonny dowes is about 5'7" tall. looking at the stats what a bunch of fat fucks. whole 136 lbs (that's before taking my tripple coiler dump).

Rad, my motivation is that is sucks when you see your fellow climbers and coutrymen getting a shaft. at this time i think i did enough. i am in a process of farwarding this info to others, who can write better and can spend their time looking into this matter. as far as Surdel goes- he can speak for himself. i just think this whole situation stinks and if it was mis-handled in a major way.

Rad, I just received a copy of 2 email from Surdel himself. Film Polski doen't have a copy of the sale, but that might not be a big factor, since they keep the records for 10 years. There is a reason for it. The standard contract for distribution rights is usually 5 or 10 years maximum. So in that case his rights to showing the movie expired long, long time ago- at least from 1991. Second distribution rights do not cover screenings of the movie at festivals without author's conscent. your links in this case are useless. Film is a property of a Polish citizen and was illegaly shown in Canada. So why would we apply US copyright laws in this situation. this reminds me of the situation, where some Jews from NYC tried to sue Polish govenment (and current private property owners) in federal court in NY, the claimed property is in Poland. last time i cheked US did not have any jurisdition in europe or canada. The finale of this situation is that Alex Bertulis made a huge mistake, tried to create a phony story to cover it up and doesn't even have enough balls to admit it. court adjurned