glassgowkiss

what's up with all you slackers? on saturday- a perfect day at index, sunny, warm and like 6 people all thogether. today- more people but... what's up with this faggotry of aiding? and like how much are you going to learn on iron horse? if you like work so much (yes aid is nothing more then your failure to free climb and is as much fun as digging ditches) you can show up at my place and clear some lumber from my yard. anyway- looks like spring season is on and get out there.

bumpidy bump

i was in index on sunday. cold and wet rock. good day to teach someone basic iad climbing and jumaring. went to ww1 wall today. to my surprise some wet sections and minot dripps, but over all not too bad. season is on.

bump

la sportiva cobras (brand new) 35.5 $40 plus shipping five ten velcro anasazi (used about 10 times- too small) size 40 $85.00 obo plus shipping. contact here or muscletx at yahoo dot com.

shit, anything but the gallery. don't you pepople know any better! shitty climbing, always crowded and waaaay overrated routes! on sunday went to "sunny and steep" crag. while there were tons of people we had the whole valley to ourselves.

This polish guy was below my friend cody who did freerider this fall. Apparently he onsighted almost all of the route, real smooth and powerful in like a day. He then got totally and completely shut down by the offwidth. Apparently, blood, screams and tears over many days. I heard that he just gave up after losing a pint of blood in the thing and swore he was never going back to yosemite. Cody has some funny ass pictures of the guy. tell your buddy he is full of shit. simple, this is not the story at all.

how about the weather? have you looked outside lately? so it's pretty much raining 6-7 months out of the year, no decent sport climbing, approaches suck ass and good routes are quite rare. from talking to a couple of my friends still working in outdoor industry for the couple of years the sales are pretty much flat. the exeption might be plastics, but there are a lot of new companies, so the competition is solid.

yeah, you forgot to mention that majority of the routes on Gallery are a couple of letters overgraded, so you can be a real "bad-ass" bolt clipping puff....

rudy- have him watch this movie: http://www.szafagra.com/index.php?pages=filmy and click on freerider. this guy, who can't do 11d ow did several 8c and 8c+ routes on limestone. i think he also did 8b os. while he was able to os some of the 12d higher up he stated he was never so wasted in his life as after trying the 11d ow.

what a load of shit! wow- kind of hard to call this crap "documentary" since there are hardly any facts in it. and the footage- a bunch of low resolution pictures and the speaker telling us how to interpret it. eye witness accounts- any lawyer will tell you that the eye witness testimony is one of the most unreliable things in court.

Though their web presence is small, they do have a pretty crappy website.... CCH Website Kind of gives you the feeling these things are made in some guy's garage. yeah and i am sure they use ISO 9000.

no, it's time to pull the snake. or maybe it's time to pull your pants down bend over and receive.... this year i've been climbing on plastic since october and i am already sick and tired of it. plus b-ham doesn't even have a real climbing gym. the wall at ymca is a joke.

yet again another "great" PNW season of winter ice/alpine climbing. all dressed up and nowhere to go.

ditch the leashes, go leashless. as far as glover go- so called "climbing gloves" are the biggest rip off. a 100 bucks pair will work the same as 20 dollar pair from your local hardware store., so this is what i use: for dry, not so cold (to mid teens) i use regular Atlas therma fit construction gloves. they are great for hard ice and dry-tooling, since they gripp really well. remember- a thick glove doesn't keep you warmer on the pitch anyway. i found that with the thinner gloves i can relax my forearm more and my blood circulation is much better. last year i bought at mec gloves made by Auclair. they had 2 thickness of liners and they are very grippy and dexterity is really good too. the best is that on sale they were something like 13 canadian dollars. for belaying i use in warmer conditions a pair of leather insulated gloves bought for $10 at your local hardware store and i also have a pair of mittens. i also use hand warmers in my gloves. but in general cheap is good, don't buy any of the hype bullshit.

yeah, josh and the surgery is the answer, right? don't talk a subject you have no experience. yes, you are in title to your opinion, but on this one you are wrong and full of shit.

so for all you people with grafik skilz- can you draw me Bebbie-stoddard route. thanks

when is it in condition? let's take something that forms every year or at least every other year.

smoke less weed pal. open a friggin guide book and see how many routes are on mt wilson alone. then look at weeping wall area, howse area. just because YOU can't climb that shit doesn't mean it doesn't exists. most likely jus the stanley glacier headwall holds more ice then washington and lillooet put together.

alex- i think you didn't climb in the rockies too much, since you are trying to compare wa and alberta.bc. first of all- let's take the season. yeah, there are years like this fall, when you had to be savy in the rockies. 2 weeks every 4 or 5 years around here you can hardly call a season. second- the quality and quantity of ice.

fuck you wanker. talking about arrogance- josh is 100% right. what beta do you need? how about opening a guidebook. and the fact of the matter is that even shittiest season in the rockies is 10 fold better then the best season in washington.

can someone draw a line where Bebie-Stoddard route goes?

sorry, no pics. we were driving rather early and just looked at these from the road. but trust me- it looked really good.

driving to l-worth i saw on sunday morning quite a lot of ice on mt index. looked like McNerthy-Klewin was in. there were steep ice pillars at the base of norwegian buttress. of course it was raining by monday, but something to keep in mind for the future. btw because of this fucking flu i missed all the action of the past 2 weeks of cold! this sucks!

don jia did the plum a couple of days ago.