glassgowkiss

oh catturd, give it a brake! 3 pages of internet spew. bring this, bring that. the point is you can nver bring enough. every situation is a different story, so your head (thinking and experience) are the best survival gear you have. it's also like watching the discussion on ice screw placement and many other nonsense topics. you can't learn climbing by typing on internet. if you post to pass time at your boring job, fine. posting conditions- fine. but let's face it- most of the posts are just a bunch of spew made by frustrated office workers.so don't get your panties in the wad and enjoy the ride. werd

how about you fucking head! morons

plum was climbed a couple of days ago. white blotter needs extra few days. i would think politically correct would be in too. i think if you look a bit you could find a lot of ice around whistler/pemberton- saving a lot of driving.

i just talked to someone and he said the plum is in. easy walking to the base, last pitch was in and minimal snow between pitches. white blotter needs extra few days.

that's because if the screws fail, they brake. an ice screw is a tube, hence it has enough strength along the axis. most likely situation is you place a screw, you fall. the ice breaks under the hanger of the screw, creating shearing force and tube loses it's integrity. that's why it is important to place screws 10 degrees up. one more note to alex's comment. yes 13 cm screws are as strong. as the matter of fact most of the guys in canmore use 1- 22cm for v-threads, have a couple 16cm and the rest is 13 and 10. much lighter rack. rock gear yes!. also be patient. one thing i have learned is that usually you can get decent gear if you are patient enough.

any info on ice around elecric city (banks lake area). where do most people stay in winter (cheap motel suggestions) thanks-r

what about white slabs? rat, check your pm.

Pan Dome is in. take mainly 10 and 13 cm screws, since it's more like a shield (water still running behind). climbing was resonable, the gear in places questionable. Tabasco Kidd is in too, was also climbed by a party today. no snow shoes needed on approaches, the trail is broken. sorry, no photos, but it looks like there is a bit more ice then here (but not much more) http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/519616/an/0/page/0#519616

thanks Jason, but do you know if any of these routes are formed up now?

Yup. Grivel double spring/spring thing (whatever they call it) + custom drill job. PM me for details if interested. i'd rather lose a tool then have an abdominal puncture wound.

rudy, of course the pro he put in was a MAJOR factor. but the fact of the matter is that gri-gri does provide less dynamic belay, specially if you are on gear/multi pitch routes. my own empirical experience tells me so. the ONLY times (both times i clipped old fixed wires) that i ripped something out were cases when i was belayed with a gri-gri. in sport climbing really doesn't matter, since the strength of the bolt exeeds the the force generated by the fall of the leader. but in more marginal situations i personally do not want to be belayed by someone with a gri-gri. in the case of the pictures on ruby his pro sucked donkey dick- and gri-gri or not a splat like that should not take place. but in general even petzl doesn't recommend using gri-gri on gear climbs.

nomic are not in stock and most likely they won't be in n. america for sale this winter. i had a chance to look at these puppies and they might be more dry-tool then ice-mix. i just compared ergo vs quarks and they are identical up to the bottom grip. i have never heard about anybody just slipping off the tools. i think you actually have a better chance dropping one with leashes then without. on pure ice i place the tool in ice, on mix i clip them into my ice clippers. as far as slipping off the tool this is my take: with gloves and a couple of sleeves on your wrist i think your hand would come out of the leash anyway. a couple of weeks ago i was seconding klatu verata n. the pitch was about M6. i started with leashes and ditched them after a few moves. my hands were getting colder and leashes were creating a total cluster fuck. remember long slings between the harness and the tools? do you see anybody still using them?

for pure ice i preffer ergos to quarks. ergos are the foremost ice climbing tool, hence i used them on climbs like curtain call, french reality, pilsner. after 2 full seasons with them all i can say: they climb on ice just fine.

leashless are better. get her ergos. every female ice climber liked these tools.

is there something forming up? also what are the most popular routes and what are the approaches like (snow conditions). thanks in advance- r

Thank heavens the belayer had the foresight to use a Gri-Gri, which, in hindsight, was a really good idea! stick to bolt clipping laddy. actually gri- gri most likely caused both pieces to fail wich caused the grounder. each tool has it's aplication and you can't give a dynamic belay with a gri-gri. gri- gri is for sport climbing only! topic closed.

dru, there was a summer route between the 2 chimney systems. it was climbed by Ben Gadd, so the new route up the central chimney is yet another Gadd fammily addition to the rockies

all photos are from Raphael Slawinski collection. the route- chimney in the middle of face was climbed last weekend by Slawinski-Gadd team. for people going there over the thanksgiving: it's really, really warm this year with quite a lot of snow higher up. a lot of stuff lower down simply isn't in, even the usual climbs (like professor's) are just running water. higher up avi danger has to be taken into consideration. if you are thinking about a lot of moderate ice close to the road you might consider changing your plans.

Klatu Verata N... (200 m, WI3 M6) FA: Robert Rogoz & Raphael Slawinski, Nov. 13, 2005 Approach the N face of the Wedge via the popular hiking/scrambling trail, starting at Wedge Pond. It is best to walk up the rounded ridge all the way to the base of the mountain (packs can be left here), then traverse down and right below the rock to the route. KVN follows the left-hand and shorter of two gully/chimney systems on the N face of the Wedge. Climb a pitch up a low-angle corner with a narrow stream of thin styrofoam (fun climbing with excellent rock gear). Slog up the snow gully for about two ropelengths to where it dead-ends in a big overhang. The crux exit pitch avoids the overhang by a traverse right on a steep snow ledge to an arête. From the end of the traverse, the pitch goes more or less straight up, with increasingly difficult drytooling and mixed climbing. 70 m ropes hit the ridgeline with a couple of metres to spare. A belay in the loose rock and scree at the top may be difficult to arrange. To descend, walk easily down the backside to rejoin the approach ridge. Take a full rock rack (set of wires, cams to #3 or 4 Camalot, good selection of pins); however, screws are excess baggage. 2 notes #1 the snow slope in the middle was brutal. at the end about 5-6 attempts to make one move up. #2. i would add maybe pg to rating of the last pitch. it is also time consuming, since it took close to 3 hours to do it.

a secret location about 600 miles east from coast. can't tell now, since there is an open project next to this route. more details in a couple of weeks.

go east http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=14629&size=big&sort=1&cat=500

i posted link to a couple of movies, not about climbing, but just amazing athletic performaces. some over zellus moderator removed the whole post. i have one thing to say to you: FUCK YOU ASSHOLE. following footsteps of mr e i am out of here too.

post deleted

check some real action: http://www.koreus.com/files/200502/breakdance.html http://media.hugi.is/hahradi/fyndnar/monkey1.wmv now that's fucking crazy!

i like the new bd packs. and the price is ok too. i think they are a better version of wild things (which i like too and still use andinista from time to time).