glassgowkiss

how about the weather? have you looked outside lately? so it's pretty much raining 6-7 months out of the year, no decent sport climbing, approaches suck ass and good routes are quite rare. from talking to a couple of my friends still working in outdoor industry for the couple of years the sales are pretty much flat. the exeption might be plastics, but there are a lot of new companies, so the competition is solid.

yeah, you forgot to mention that majority of the routes on Gallery are a couple of letters overgraded, so you can be a real "bad-ass" bolt clipping puff....

rudy- have him watch this movie: http://www.szafagra.com/index.php?pages=filmy and click on freerider. this guy, who can't do 11d ow did several 8c and 8c+ routes on limestone. i think he also did 8b os. while he was able to os some of the 12d higher up he stated he was never so wasted in his life as after trying the 11d ow.

what a load of shit! wow- kind of hard to call this crap "documentary" since there are hardly any facts in it. and the footage- a bunch of low resolution pictures and the speaker telling us how to interpret it. eye witness accounts- any lawyer will tell you that the eye witness testimony is one of the most unreliable things in court.

Though their web presence is small, they do have a pretty crappy website.... CCH Website Kind of gives you the feeling these things are made in some guy's garage. yeah and i am sure they use ISO 9000.

no, it's time to pull the snake. or maybe it's time to pull your pants down bend over and receive.... this year i've been climbing on plastic since october and i am already sick and tired of it. plus b-ham doesn't even have a real climbing gym. the wall at ymca is a joke.

yet again another "great" PNW season of winter ice/alpine climbing. all dressed up and nowhere to go.

ditch the leashes, go leashless. as far as glover go- so called "climbing gloves" are the biggest rip off. a 100 bucks pair will work the same as 20 dollar pair from your local hardware store., so this is what i use: for dry, not so cold (to mid teens) i use regular Atlas therma fit construction gloves. they are great for hard ice and dry-tooling, since they gripp really well. remember- a thick glove doesn't keep you warmer on the pitch anyway. i found that with the thinner gloves i can relax my forearm more and my blood circulation is much better. last year i bought at mec gloves made by Auclair. they had 2 thickness of liners and they are very grippy and dexterity is really good too. the best is that on sale they were something like 13 canadian dollars. for belaying i use in warmer conditions a pair of leather insulated gloves bought for $10 at your local hardware store and i also have a pair of mittens. i also use hand warmers in my gloves. but in general cheap is good, don't buy any of the hype bullshit.

yeah, josh and the surgery is the answer, right? don't talk a subject you have no experience. yes, you are in title to your opinion, but on this one you are wrong and full of shit.

so for all you people with grafik skilz- can you draw me Bebbie-stoddard route. thanks

when is it in condition? let's take something that forms every year or at least every other year.

smoke less weed pal. open a friggin guide book and see how many routes are on mt wilson alone. then look at weeping wall area, howse area. just because YOU can't climb that shit doesn't mean it doesn't exists. most likely jus the stanley glacier headwall holds more ice then washington and lillooet put together.

alex- i think you didn't climb in the rockies too much, since you are trying to compare wa and alberta.bc. first of all- let's take the season. yeah, there are years like this fall, when you had to be savy in the rockies. 2 weeks every 4 or 5 years around here you can hardly call a season. second- the quality and quantity of ice.

fuck you wanker. talking about arrogance- josh is 100% right. what beta do you need? how about opening a guidebook. and the fact of the matter is that even shittiest season in the rockies is 10 fold better then the best season in washington.

can someone draw a line where Bebie-Stoddard route goes?

sorry, no pics. we were driving rather early and just looked at these from the road. but trust me- it looked really good.

driving to l-worth i saw on sunday morning quite a lot of ice on mt index. looked like McNerthy-Klewin was in. there were steep ice pillars at the base of norwegian buttress. of course it was raining by monday, but something to keep in mind for the future. btw because of this fucking flu i missed all the action of the past 2 weeks of cold! this sucks!

don jia did the plum a couple of days ago.

oh catturd, give it a brake! 3 pages of internet spew. bring this, bring that. the point is you can nver bring enough. every situation is a different story, so your head (thinking and experience) are the best survival gear you have. it's also like watching the discussion on ice screw placement and many other nonsense topics. you can't learn climbing by typing on internet. if you post to pass time at your boring job, fine. posting conditions- fine. but let's face it- most of the posts are just a bunch of spew made by frustrated office workers.so don't get your panties in the wad and enjoy the ride. werd

how about you fucking head! morons

plum was climbed a couple of days ago. white blotter needs extra few days. i would think politically correct would be in too. i think if you look a bit you could find a lot of ice around whistler/pemberton- saving a lot of driving.

i just talked to someone and he said the plum is in. easy walking to the base, last pitch was in and minimal snow between pitches. white blotter needs extra few days.

that's because if the screws fail, they brake. an ice screw is a tube, hence it has enough strength along the axis. most likely situation is you place a screw, you fall. the ice breaks under the hanger of the screw, creating shearing force and tube loses it's integrity. that's why it is important to place screws 10 degrees up. one more note to alex's comment. yes 13 cm screws are as strong. as the matter of fact most of the guys in canmore use 1- 22cm for v-threads, have a couple 16cm and the rest is 13 and 10. much lighter rack. rock gear yes!. also be patient. one thing i have learned is that usually you can get decent gear if you are patient enough.

any info on ice around elecric city (banks lake area). where do most people stay in winter (cheap motel suggestions) thanks-r

what about white slabs? rat, check your pm.