jlag

Pack Animal Direct- soft(er) if you's got small digits way harder if you got big meat hooks Double Cross at J-tree- hard ass 5.6

Without a sled your looking at a long ass skin/hike/slog.

At the base? I think that was mid-mountain.

Mt Bachy is leading the powder charge. First to break 100" this winter. Tons of new snow, high avy danger in the backcountry. More tourists than I've ever seen in the last week.

PM me, I'm very interested.

Taking the road around the Sea of Cortez is awesome. I've been to Cabo Pulmo, it's really chill with good snorkeling. The other spots are really good times as well. Just depends on what you want to do. Unless you want to spend most of your time on the toilet I wouldn't advise eating at the roadside stands. Yes the food is really good, but sooner or later you'll be pissing out of your ass.

I'll meet ya out there, if it's sunny. PM me if your interested.

What type of fun are you looking for? Climbing, kayaking, just relaxing and drinking beer? Let me know, I can probably give you some direction.

Nice work Martin, just got back from Mexico myself. I couldn't agree more with the beach bouldering. I was in Sayulita(just north of PV)ended up blowing off surfing to boulder the killer granite on the beach. Everyone was crashing into each other on the surf and I was climbing super clean boulders with sand landings. So much potential around that area, only on low tide though.

A few inches of slush at the most, only in the shaded parts of the road. The rest melted out in the rain over the weekend. Climbing conditions in the sisters kicks ass right now.

That line has been bolted for a while. I believe the rope you saw is someone doing route maintenence. The existing anchors and bolts on that thing were horrible. I don't know if any of y'all spend much time in or around Prineville, but they don't give a shit about bolts in the rock. Of course i'm not speaking for everyone out there, but using camo hangers is a waste of time. Spend some time in the forest out there and you won't feel bad about bolts and fixed lines. Personally I think bolting a hard free line on Steins is a bit selfish, how many people are gonna head out there to do it? Prineville peeps don't pull bolts, they shoot climbers.

pm me

Nice work Radek, ignore the banter. I would love to meet up with you guys again for some craggin. Drop Josh a line.

you perv

I'm down with that. Do you have a climbing partner or just trolling at the park? PM me or call me at home 389-7153. I'd be interested in some early morning backside or marsupial stuff.

Where did you encounter 45+ degree slopes on the N. Ridge? I've been up there a fair bit and haven't seen anything like that. How far off the ridge were you? I agree that run-out can be a bit un-nerving when it's icy/windy.

More power to ya. Anytime you need a place to stay in Bend look me up. Good times in Vegas.

Can you say "avalanche danger". Timmy give me a call, I may be down for this trip.

What route are you looking at? Just be really cautious of the West Rib/Milk Creek Gully if it hasn't slid yet. It basically always has a decent size release this time of year when it warms up. If you see some fracture lines up higher and there's no new snow you should be good to go. Last year we went up in May/June and there was 15 feet of avy debris at the base of the gully. What day are you going in? I may be up there as well.

Well put my NBA 1st-round draft pick center/climbing partner. With the weather forecast I feel pretty lucky to be able to climb that thing. Yeah, the visability basically sucked but still a great route. Thanks Ivan for getting us down without taking the Elliot slide. All in all an excellent adventure, the hike out was fucking comical. Trying to keep up with a 6'7" madman rocking out in the rain. Nukified.

Sorry to miss you. We went out to the Marsupials on Sunday to avoid the masses. Place was pretty empty out there. Sounds like you enjoyed yourself and that's all the matters. Nice job on your leads, impressive. Feel free to come down and stay anytime you want to pull on tuff.

Surfing in Mexico. I'll be back on the 14th.

Climb: Hoody-Reid HW Date of Climb: 3/5/2005 Trip Report: Slept in the lot Friday night, arrived at 10:30 pm, woke at up 2:30 and started up the slog. Easy going till the top of the Palmer. Post-holed over to Illumination with only a few people headed up the S. side. Took a break at the saddle to listen for rock/ice fall. My plan was to solo Leuthold's but after dropping down the sadddle the wallowing began. The post-holing was sapping my energy so I cut up early on the Reid HW hoping to cut over to Leuthold's up higher. Crossed the Berg easily and headed up and left. Conditions changed to wind slab so I search out the firm snow/ice. A bit of ice chunder raining down but no rock. Cruised through a really fun ice chute and then realized traversing over to Leuthold's wasn't going to happen. Got a bit off track, had to downclimb some steep neve and then headed up the left-most gully of the HW. Topped out on the rim and rested the aching calves. At this point I was too pooped and it was warming up so I headed down. The whole day I only saw one other party(I think they did the far right side of the HW) on the entire west side of the mountain. A good dozen or so peeps on the S. Side and I passed a couple of parties coming up to the West Crate Rim route. I still got your glove if you read this, couldn't find your car in the lot. Super fun route, lots of variable conditions, didn't expect the post-holing to be so grueling. Bringing the split board up was huge. Rode the groomers down to the car and ran into Letsroll. Big up to Letsroll for hand delivering the PBR to my car. How about a CC.com mud bog in the lower lot? Gear Notes: Ice axe, extra tool, poons helmet for ice bombs need stronger calves Approach Notes: Lots of post-holing, great neve and ice up higher.

Gotta say it just don't get any better than that. Untracked bliss with a beautiful alpine setting, and only 1/2 hour skin from the snowmow. I'm still high from those runs. Thanks to gapertimmy for making it happen, and navigating the sled through wicked bumps. I got home to 2 ice cold buds in the fridge, took me about 10 minutes to pound em in your honor.

THis works great for getting most of the twists out. You need a bit space, I use the block I live on. Run the rope out end to end, have on person hold one end. Clip an atc/belay device right next to the person and then run the device all the way to other end. You will push all the twists out the other end. You'll see the end whipping around long before you get there. Also you have twists going the other way(toward the person holding), this can be taken care of by have the person switch hands or better yet start from the opposite end. I usually do this every month and my ropes run clean after that.