jlag

Do you know how to ski Kevbone? Wanna race? you with your skiis and me with my split.

Appreciate the recon/conditions report. Way to take one for the team. Did you happen to contact Bend Living to make sure they can get Ball Butte in the next issue?

short for playboy

Sickbird Truly enjoyed your "interview" in Bend Living. Had no idea you were so suave. Nothing like backcountry props in Bend Living Magazine. Noticed Rubin got his shot in too.

no on the variation, mostly because we weren't sure where to top out in the first place. Kind of a weird "slab traverse" to get to the anchors. It was a good 8 years ago, but felt like it was rarely climbed back then. I love the Wonderlands.

Room to Shroom Figures on a Landscape

Everytime i try to send a pm it sends it to myself. Tried it numerous times to no avail. Timmy can you help?

The best part is how everyone just ignores his whiny ass. You were picked on a lot in school weren't you kevbone?

Fuck yeah Timmy. That's what i'm talking 'bout you lucky bastard. Sledneck Sat.

The Transmission and Atlas Hybrid are the lighter hybrid pants made by Mammut. Those Extremes that your looking at are heavier/burlier due to reinforcent and mostly the fleecy liner on the inside.

Is that up on Snibble Tower Radek?

Crack just left of Captain Zenolith, something Ditereria? 5.8 maybe.

I think it's The Taco, Castle Crags.

I got a few, but you gotta pick em up. PM me.

It was 10 degrees this morning in Bend. Perfect for sending, just dip your hands in water and then they'll freeze to the rock.

Once again my stance is the resource, not the hush hush attitude. I hate that shit too. But comparing a fucking swing set to a new potential climbing area is about as off base as it gets. Do they build swing sets in riparian areas? How about nesting habitats? It sounds to me like you were exposed to some real assholes while climbing in Oregon this summer. That sucks, I'm sorry but that's not a good representation of Oregon Climbers. Trout Creek? It's been on the map for years, go into InClimb they'll give you a topo. Have you looked at the guidebook your defending? Seriously? I came across a lot more hush hush attitude in Montana than here. Funny thing is the rock sucks here compare to there. Nice work in Blodgett, that place kicks ass.

So all climbing areas/potential climbing areas should be in a guidebook? Have you ever been to some of the areas Timmy is talking about? They're not developed for a reason, because the resource can't handle a flow of climbers. Most of them are barely bouldering areas and we all know how "bouldering areas" get treated. What's a matter with finding a place on your own? Or hearing about it from someone else and searching it out? You make it sound like the minute it's discovered we should start a guidebook. Fuck that. It's not about keeping secrets, it's about maintaining a balance. There's TONS of hush hush climbing areas in Montana, including Bozeman. Wake the fuck up.

I second the priority on the Marsupial Traverse anchors. I think they're buttonheads. Pretty manky looking anchor for sure.

RideT61 is off base, I can change out my Burton split in less than 5 minutes. Piece of cake once you get it down. Practice in your nice warm house before you take it out into the snow.

I wouldn't say dangerously loose, a bit too exciting for the budding 5.8 leader. The first pitch is the worst, 5.7 friction climbing on complete choss, lots of grit and nubbings that you could take home with you. AFter that it does have an alpine "tuft" feel. Except it's bolted thank god. It's way cool getting up to the grassy ledge, big/comfy enough for a party of ten. There's two sport climbs going up the water streaks out of the ledge(not birds in a rut route). THe short one is 10b(super fun jug haul) and the other looks 5.fucking.hard but quality. Anyways, rest of the route(2 pitches more i think)is average, lots of loose surface pebbles/lichen, but not too bad on belayer slayer blocks. You can't see Santiam from Birds, I spied it with binoc's down low. Looks very "traversy" and I heard the bolts are old 1/4's. Some of the flakes look a bit suspect, hard to tell. Let me know if you want to go take a stab at it sometime, I'd be worth checking out. Also Green Gulley looks pretty cool, if somebody spent a month cleaning the fucker. I checked it out from the top belay(scramble from the backside), super cool 2 pitch dihedral, just full of choss.

Ryan Lawson was gonna retro that thing a while back, pretty sure it never got done. The Wombat is an amazing piece of rock, just never gets done and is full of choss. I've never done Santiam ledges, too spooky. I have done Bird on a Wire(5.8R red addendum) and don't recommend it. Lot's of loose rock, but getting up on the grassy ledge is super cool. Check out First Kiss, 5 pitch bolted 5.8 past the Monkey. PM me for beta.

check splitboard.com splitboard swap forum

i climbed here a few times when I lived in Missoula. Amazing place, backcountry rockclimbing with really good rock. Never heard of any car break-ins, but you never know. Best route there is Mutt and Jeff, multi-pitch 5.9. Couple of other good 5.8-5.9 trad/mixed stuff. I did Scrooge, good friction climbing, pretty stout. Just a really cool place to be with little traffic.

It's not THAT bad melted out. Easy just unnerving. But snow is the way to go for sure.

The key is to finding the magic balance between ragin' all night and being able to climb hard in the morning. Every shot after my 3rd shot of Jack Daniels lowers my lead climbing grades for the next day.