jlag

Is that up on Snibble Tower Radek?

Crack just left of Captain Zenolith, something Ditereria? 5.8 maybe.

I think it's The Taco, Castle Crags.

It was 10 degrees this morning in Bend. Perfect for sending, just dip your hands in water and then they'll freeze to the rock.

Once again my stance is the resource, not the hush hush attitude. I hate that shit too. But comparing a fucking swing set to a new potential climbing area is about as off base as it gets. Do they build swing sets in riparian areas? How about nesting habitats? It sounds to me like you were exposed to some real assholes while climbing in Oregon this summer. That sucks, I'm sorry but that's not a good representation of Oregon Climbers. Trout Creek? It's been on the map for years, go into InClimb they'll give you a topo. Have you looked at the guidebook your defending? Seriously? I came across a lot more hush hush attitude in Montana than here. Funny thing is the rock sucks here compare to there. Nice work in Blodgett, that place kicks ass.

So all climbing areas/potential climbing areas should be in a guidebook? Have you ever been to some of the areas Timmy is talking about? They're not developed for a reason, because the resource can't handle a flow of climbers. Most of them are barely bouldering areas and we all know how "bouldering areas" get treated. What's a matter with finding a place on your own? Or hearing about it from someone else and searching it out? You make it sound like the minute it's discovered we should start a guidebook. Fuck that. It's not about keeping secrets, it's about maintaining a balance. There's TONS of hush hush climbing areas in Montana, including Bozeman. Wake the fuck up.

I second the priority on the Marsupial Traverse anchors. I think they're buttonheads. Pretty manky looking anchor for sure.

RideT61 is off base, I can change out my Burton split in less than 5 minutes. Piece of cake once you get it down. Practice in your nice warm house before you take it out into the snow.

I wouldn't say dangerously loose, a bit too exciting for the budding 5.8 leader. The first pitch is the worst, 5.7 friction climbing on complete choss, lots of grit and nubbings that you could take home with you. AFter that it does have an alpine "tuft" feel. Except it's bolted thank god. It's way cool getting up to the grassy ledge, big/comfy enough for a party of ten. There's two sport climbs going up the water streaks out of the ledge(not birds in a rut route). THe short one is 10b(super fun jug haul) and the other looks 5.fucking.hard but quality. Anyways, rest of the route(2 pitches more i think)is average, lots of loose surface pebbles/lichen, but not too bad on belayer slayer blocks. You can't see Santiam from Birds, I spied it with binoc's down low. Looks very "traversy" and I heard the bolts are old 1/4's. Some of the flakes look a bit suspect, hard to tell. Let me know if you want to go take a stab at it sometime, I'd be worth checking out. Also Green Gulley looks pretty cool, if somebody spent a month cleaning the fucker. I checked it out from the top belay(scramble from the backside), super cool 2 pitch dihedral, just full of choss.

Ryan Lawson was gonna retro that thing a while back, pretty sure it never got done. The Wombat is an amazing piece of rock, just never gets done and is full of choss. I've never done Santiam ledges, too spooky. I have done Bird on a Wire(5.8R red addendum) and don't recommend it. Lot's of loose rock, but getting up on the grassy ledge is super cool. Check out First Kiss, 5 pitch bolted 5.8 past the Monkey. PM me for beta.

check splitboard.com splitboard swap forum

i climbed here a few times when I lived in Missoula. Amazing place, backcountry rockclimbing with really good rock. Never heard of any car break-ins, but you never know. Best route there is Mutt and Jeff, multi-pitch 5.9. Couple of other good 5.8-5.9 trad/mixed stuff. I did Scrooge, good friction climbing, pretty stout. Just a really cool place to be with little traffic.

It's not THAT bad melted out. Easy just unnerving. But snow is the way to go for sure.

The key is to finding the magic balance between ragin' all night and being able to climb hard in the morning. Every shot after my 3rd shot of Jack Daniels lowers my lead climbing grades for the next day.

The Berg is gigantic and impassable. Reports of going around to the left on shitty exposed rock. Been over 100 degrees of days out here, good luck.

Jlag starting feeling "ill" on Friday night. Starting feeling worse on the drive to Adams. Just in head, keep going. By Madras Jlag felt like somebody gave him a Roofy, just in your head, a good hike will make you feel better. Turned around in Warm Springs and have been sleeping and feeling like shit since.

I think the heavy snow year really messed with the road a bit. Certainly no big deal with some clearance, sometimes rock-crawling is necessary but doable.

Nice work Radek. Sounds spicey.

anytime my friend. Thanks for the inspiration to power up to the base of that thing. Let me know when you get some pictures rolling.

Just got off Middle yesterday. N. ridge is mellow, I'd bring an ice axe though. The W. side traverse on North looks a bit patchy, but mostly snow. The S. ridge is melted out so expect a scree wallow.

Not sure about Hood but both Pamelia and Whitewater are clear all the way to the TH for Mt. Jefferson. Conditions are ripe back there get on it.

Last weekend they got a good 3-6 inches, even more depending on windloading. But I'd say with the rain it's all gone and then some.

I worked at Bend Parks/Rec for years a while back. Who are you interviewing with? Let me know I'll put in a good word. As far as renting goes it's quite expensive, i'm not sure what you pay but we rent a 2br 1 bath on the Westside for $900/month. It's only 5 blocks from downtown so we get the rent.I'd say expect anything from $800 and up for 2 br homes. Eastside you'll find cheaper rent, but not as "cool" as living on the W.side. Most west-siders that move East of HWY 97 get their first DUI within the first year of moving. PM me for more info, I'm always looking for climbing partners so get a hold of me when your in town. Lots of free camping besides Grasslands.

Believe me I was thinking of you guys driving to Smith on Monday morning. You got a gift from the gods, blue-bird with lots of freshiez. How was the avy conditions? We should of stayed but we had enough of the re-winter for the previous 12 hours. Did you get a good look at the E.face? just curious if the bottom is too melted out/berg too sketchy. Really cool to run into you two, we should go climb something sometime. Oregon's best burger I think is in Madras? Josh

I agree, I wouldn't go out there w/out some sort of floatation devices. The Cascade Lakes HWY will be open this weekend, so you'll get good access to S. Sister or Broken Top. The trails are broken at first but mostly snow up higher. Not sure about the road up to the TH for Canyon Creek Meadow, I'd be willing to bet theres snow before the TH proper.