chris

Only my opinion here, but it sounds alot like chronic sinusitis (more than which may be d/t several factors i.e. bacterial, fungal (yes, possible), bone structure. If you have seasonal allergies, it may be exacerbating the issue along with the yearly sickness/influenza/cold or a topical decongestant used longer than 3 days. I would suggest that you ask for a culture and sensitivity (give you an idea which bug and tests for resistance of antibiotics), CT scan (will show inflammation and bone issues if an issue), discuss meds longer than the allotted course of 10 days - for something that may be chronic, you may need to go 3 - 4 weeks. Decongestants if it gets to it, discuss topical and oral w/them. And definitely ask for a referral to the ENT/oto specialist. The salt nose rinse is great after it all clears, especially w/allergies. Hope this helps! Montanapup

I may need to hike up Sibley Creek to Early Morning Spire the last weekend of August. Any beta? Cheers Chris

What happened to Backcountry Essentials on Holly? It was still going strong when I moved away.

I solo fairly regularly now. Just climbed a 800'-long ridge near Whitney two weeks ago. Stop over at Lovers Leap every time I'm driving back and forth and back again from Bishop. When I'm tired of the Leap, or when I've climbed everything I'm comfortable soloing there, I plan on moving down to Sonora Pass, and then Tioga. Earlier this winter I solo skied the Sierra High Route from Alta Peak to Kearsarge Pass in 2.5 days. I took Sunday off, did laundry, and then guided the same route from west to east in 7 days. I only solo something when I'm completely confident that I will not fall. Mark Twight mentioned something similar in writing once. I know that may be wrong, but there you have it. I've bailed off a few times. Tahquitz. Rainier. Big Four. Mt Erie. Leaning Tower. Perhaps most interesting is that MontanaPup was surprised to learn exactly what I was doing when I told her about my latest solo. She said she knew I was soloing, but never realized that I was climbing 5th class routes. She thought I was keeping it at the 5.4 or lower. Ooops. I don't go into a lot of detail when I tell her I solo, and she never really asked questions that needed detailed answers. Maybe we were both avoiding the "why"? She doesn't like climbing a lot of boulders because they're too high.

JDJ, So, I read the interview link you provided and I've copy & pasted the passage that interested me the most: So, if I understand things, if the AMC/AAC campground on private land wasn't happening, the State of New York would likely take the time and the resources to formalize the campground into a permit, sites, etc. Regardless, management of camping at the Gunks was going to change as far back as five years ago. It seems to become a question of which evil do you want: A campground managed by the state, or a campground managed by the AMC?

free camping at lovers leap and it's quite clean, smith rock has free camping and it's quite clean, cochise stronghold more of the same i could go on and on . where you climbing and camping big boy? As of 1 June, camping at Lovers Leap is $10/site/night/one car, +$5/additional car.

I have a pair of Shuksans and Mt. Bakers. My Shuksans are one step down in ize for what I normally ski, and I use them for long tours wear I start considering weight or spring conditions. I use my Mt. Bakers for single day trips or mid-winter fresh snow. I have Dynafits on both, and use a pair of Mega-Ride boots. I couldn't be happier with both!

I'll throw another vote in for the FF Vireo - my principle summer bag for the fifth year running now. It weighs a pound, packs smaller than a grapefruit, and I've used it below freezing despite its 45 deg rating. It allowed me to do most of my trips with 45 liter pack or smaller.

Petzl specifically recommends NOT simul-climbing with a ti-bloc for good reason - it was never designed to be dynamically loaded. When they first came out, there were several near misses and the fatality of a French guide and his client. All incidences were caused by the Second falling, creating enough force that the tibloc shredded the sheath and moving far enough down the rope that the Leader was still pulled from his stance. In the case of the French guide, this fall also lead to the rope completely seperating and both climbers falling to their death.* A device like a Pro-Traxion works differently than a Tibloc by being spring loaded (instead of weight-loaded), and in constant direct contact with the rope. At least, that's how it was explained to me. I have a lot of experience solo top-roping with a Pro-Traxion, and that seems to make sense to me for simul-climbing if I wanted to use one that way. Hans Florine does a great job describing a simul-climbing strategy in his book Speed Climbing! How to Climb Faster and Better. The Rule of Thumb is best described as: The Leader Should Not Be Pulled Off by the Second. If the Leader should fall (first), then the Second may get lifted off of their stance, but the team is counter-balanced. If the Second falls (first), and pulls off the Leader, and then continues to Fall - try to imagine what happens to the Leader. If this isn't the case - if I felt like some sort of belay was needed (like a Ropeman, Pro-Traxion, or budha-help me a Tibloc) - I stop simul-climbing and start pitching it out. Apparently this scenario also increases the force transfered to the highest piece of protection - and is the believed cause of a pair of climbers who fell from the Fishhook Arete on Mt Russell a few years ago. They were found at the base of the wall with a string of protection clipped to the rope between them, but no anchors. The stronger climber was following. Also, if the Leader is the less-strong climber and climbing at their soloing limit, then the Second should be climbing well below their limit and able to remove gear, speed up, slow down, etc. without causing the Leader much hassle. Just some random thoughts. Chris *My source for the French Guide accident was the Technical Director of the AMGA, who was told of it through the IFMGA network.

Trip: June Lake - Horsetail Falls Date: 2/17/2008 Trip Report: Climbed Horsetail Falls (60m+ WI2-WI3+) at June Lake on Sunday with MontanaPup. The hike isn't the 45 minutes that Parker reports in his guide book - its a little less than 30 minutes. A big team of 5 were climbing the WI2 flow around the right corner from the flow proper - I suspect they were from the California Alpine Club. Otherwise, we only had to share the four possible climbs with a guide from Sierra Mountain Center, who happily shared the wall with me, even taking a lunch break with his two clients to coincide with me leading the route he had set a top-rope on. We would have pictures if we had remembered to charge the battery camera before leaving home. Duh!!! In the end we climbed the Central Flow Right Side (WI2/3) and the Right Flow Right Side (WI3+). The climbs are a little longer than reported in the guidebook, mostly because the belayer needed to hang back to avoid falling ice. The CFRS ended up being about 80m long and broken into two pitches, and the RFRS was a solid 60m. There is some spontaneous ice falling from cauliflowers that formed the night before, and some of the debris at the bottom of the fall is quite big. We didn't witness anything though. The water is flowing strong through the Central Flow, and the Left Side is mostly snow on the upper half but a good lower half. The guidebook recommends two ropes for rappelling, but you can get down with one 60m (70m is better). From the rap anchor at the top of the Central Flow, descend down and climbers' left to two trees. A 60m will reach the upper tree with a single-sling anchor, and a 70m will reach the lower tree with a multiple-sling anchor and rap rings. There's also a piton anchor to the right of the trees, but needs slings or cords to equalize it. We had hoped to climb Tatum Falls, but found it rotten right now, and the first step is mostly gone. Wait until a good cold snap before getting on this classic WI3. Roadside Wall has one good ice and lightly mixed route still in, and several other lines that are probably good mixed top ropes or solos. The main falls at Lee Vining were reported in good condition but a lot of the periphery climbs were unformed this year.

Hi Dave, I think you're looking in the right direction. If you're thinking of spending more time skiing/climbing in the Cascades, then come on out! The Sierra is another option - both are maritime snowpacks, so the snow characteristics will be similar (except that the Cascades is having a crazy year, and the Sierra is having an average one). Sorry if I hi-jacked your thread - hopefully I said a few things that helped!

I couldn't agree with you more. A course is only the start - which is what the OP was looking for. And everything taught in a course has to be practiced for it to remain relevant. Sobo suggested - well, actually stated - that you were an ass. I never did. And if you have met me, you'd know that I speak my mind. If I thought you were an idiot, I would have called you one.

Hi Hugh, Sorry about that, didn't mean to come off sounding like I was lecturing. And I was writing directly to you because it sounded like we had some disagreements about what makes a good avie class. You insist that there can't be good field work in courses where there aren't layers, despite the Cascades going through the biggest avalanche season on record. And the local avie class providers have actually added courses this year to meet the demand. The fact that you insist the Cascade snow pack is uniform throughout its depth suggests that you don't have a very good avalanche education yourself, but I'll assume that you know more than I do until you say or prove otherwise. I don't recall claiming that the material is independent of time and space, but that there are commonalities irregardless of geography that allow for a uniform curriculum. Also, the AIARE curriculum has flexibility - even some gaps - that require instructors to bring in the local environment to the course. Why the hate, Hugh? I never assumed that you were uninformed, stupid, or a jackass. I simply disgree with you and stated why, and for those interested in learning more, provided some links. You're absolutely correct, I have never met you and I don't know anything about you, but you don't know my background either. Do I need to show you my resume to justify my opinions?

Hugh, Skills used to evaluate and make decisions in avalanche science are consistent regardless of geography. An avalanche forecaster, guide, or recreational skier in Vermont, Colorado, Utah, and Washington all use the same skill sets, tests, and techniques to determine snowpack stability and hazard. I think the advantage of AIARE course are the consistency in what material is presented and how it is presented. Someone can take a Level I course in Washington, then take a Level II course from a completely different provider (even in the same area), and the new instructor know precisely what the student was taught in their Level I course. This minimizes repeating basic material, and makes the most efficient use of the students' time. I also believe that AIARE provides more structure than AAA-standard courses, another advantage in my opinion. NSP courses seem to lack sufficient time in the field to teach application of the skills they present. So I personally believe that AIARE courses offer the superior product in the market right now. I encourage everyone interested in what makes AIARE unique to look at their website, www.avtraining.org, and read about how AIARE was starting on the "About Us" page. Anyone interested in speaking to me more about AIARE courses are welcome to send me a PM, or post a question here. Chris

Actually, I see that as an advantage - I've gotten to take AIARE courses in Jackson Hole, Bishop, Bellingham, Alpental, and June Lake. Instructors know what to expect from students in Level II and III courses, and students know what to expect from instructors. While there is a uniform curriculum, it allows for enough variation that instructors can tailor it to their local area. I've also taken three other avie courses from non-AIARE providers, and the professionalism of the instructors and the curriculum has been consistently better in the AIARE courses. Disclaimer: I'm an AIARE Level I instructor

My information may be outdated, but as of the end of the climbing season last year, a day use permit was not required to ascend the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek, which is a climber's trail used to gain Iceberg Lake and the East Face, East Buttress, and Mountaineers' Routes on Whitney. That is a big day - most people go ahead and camp at Upper Boy Scout Lake or Iceberg Lake. An overnight permit is required to do so, but they are easier to gain than on the hiker's trail along the South Fork of Lone Pine Creek. The South Fork also requires permits for day use. However last year climbers were also being asked to voluntarily "register" if they were accessing the North Fork for day use activity, which sounds ominously like the beginnings of another quota to me.

Best burgers and beer - Archer's Alehouse in Fairhaven Best breakfast - Old Town Cafe Best Coffee - the Black Drop Best wine and appetizers - Temple Bar For all the smack-talking I gave Bellingham, I'm sure missing it right about now...

It is so cool to see how far Blake has come. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=18&Number=277160&Searchpage=1&Main=18802&Words=&topic=1&Search=true#Post277160

Check out the Mountain Khakis - Feathered Friends has them in stock. http://www.mountainkhakis.com

I think you need to visit China.

CJ, what about the 3 Sigma testing that BD does? I do know a few engineer-type climbers who insist on purchasing BD products because of the 3 Sigma test standard. P.S. If you scroll down that quote, I included BD's description of the 3 Sigma test standard.

What absolute bullsh*t. (OK this is inflammatory, but the OP got my ire.) You already buy a number of products that you don't worry about that are produced in China, like your computer. "I asked him if they are tested upon return to the US and he was not prepared to give me a straight answer. He said BD employees are making the cams in China...I asked him if the employees came from the US and he could not give me an answer. With all the crap coming out of China nowadays and the seeming lack of quality control on this end in America I really wonder about BD and their products....." He wasn't prepared to give you a straight answer? Really? You mean he didn't have a notebook full of answers to stupid bloody questions like, "is my cam tested when it comes back from China?" and "do the Chinese factory employees come from the US?" Quality control issues from Chinese factories are the results of American manufacturers insisting on lower production costs, not because of post-production testing or the nationality of the employees. Companies that pay a reasonable cost for production aren't having problems. What the original poster clearly dosn't know is that BD owns its factories in China, and BD employees from the corporate office live in China and work with the factory management team to make sure that not only your precious bloody cams are up to spec, but that the employees are treated fairly. How do I know this? I asked two reps - so I wonder who the hell he spoke to.

I sometimes add a single or double shoulder length sling to the first piece at or after a roof to allow my partner to french free/A0 through the difficulty. On a couple of longer routes I regularly climb I even bring an alpine aider to clip and provide a little more insurance.

Hey Wayne, on Mongo Ridge, what was your technique for the bits you rope-soloed?

Kong makes a nifty - and far cheaper - adjustable daisy buckle that you then have to string with 8mm cord and add a biner. I have a pair and completely dig them. I got mine from Pagan Mountaineering in Moab.