Dane

Braydon was too modest so I thought I'd help him out

What everyone else has said. May is colder than June....early May can be really, really cold in comparison. DAS will work fine with the right combo. I like a decent jacket just to lay over my sleeping bag when the temps drop. When it is so cold you need to climb in a belay jacket it is not a great day and easy for things to go bad fast and start freezing things like feet/face/hands. But if you really want to figure out your cold weather gear just spend a a few nights out in the Columbia Icefields in Jan or Feb. The idea of a good bag, boots and a decent jacket will mean something different on day three or so while you are thinking you really should have just stayed at the hostel If you haven't been in the Alaska range I wouldn't suggest anyting too committing in a technical sense. Get a feel for the place and the conditions/temps then think about bigger projects. The West Butt is no gimme, even in decent weather and it just gets harder and colder from from there.

Similar to my choices Chad. Started using hinged crampons with plastic boots. Thought was with rigid boots, crampons could flex a bit with little loss in performance. And the set up was a lot lighter. Compared several pair of rigid to the newest flexable crampons last winter, changing crampons on each pitch while soloing Professors. Had forgotten just how good rigids were on pure ice. The current generation of rigid soled boots with flexable ankles work very well with rigid crampons.

A few here will remember when hard ice climbing demanded rigid crampons. Chouinard, SMCs, Lowe Foot Fangs and Grivel made them as well as a few others not so well known. Grivel and a few others are still in the game. I held a pair of the newest Rambos and the BD Cyborg yesterday and was surprized to find the BD weighed more. How many of you have used a rigid in the past and why did you change to a hinged or semi rigid? Your personal preference for ice, mixed or alpine?

I have Grivel's, and proto BD's. Not a big fan of biners (although the mini key ring biners do work well enough on the home made rigs) or swivels. Both of their rigs work fine if you want to clip in and out of the umbilical and need a set that works on multiple tools/positions. With or without elastic works fine as well imo. On bad days the elastic will likely freeze up anyway. Big fan of girth hitch straight to tool and girth hitch straight to harness..full strength and super low profile with a little sewing Light, simple and easy enough (and cheap enough) to make it tool specific.

Grivel Helix, best of the current screws out for water ice. Easy to rack as well. Close second is the newest BD with a crank. Add the Grivel 360 if you are talking alpine ice. Buddy and I tried all of them last winter over a couple of weeks in the Rockies and the helix came out the surprize winner by fair margin. Tube size, tooth design and durability, hanger design and finish all were part of that decision. Bottom line if you aren't climbing with the current generation screws you are wasting a lot of energy.

Just a thought but we should always be responsible for our partners. That is why we call it a partnership. Rope "teams" should be making joint decisions. If not the skill level of the partnership is likely pretty one sided. If you don't feel up to the problem and can't get get up and down it at your skill level then you might as well be guided. Nothing wrong with that unless all of a sudden you need to have the skills and ability to get up or down the route without your more experienced friend. We all have done it but it might just save your ass to recognize the fact if you aren't jointly making decisions. Also never wrong to say, "Hey, you might want to save this one for later." Better to do that before the first fall than after you need a rescue. Lately I have climbed with a bunch of "internet" partners. And I've seen some really sketchy leads because of it.

I was using Joe Friel's writings as an example and definition of periodization if that helps. Basic outline is transition, prep, base, build, peak. It can easily be applied to any sport. You can do the cycles in a month or so or apply it over a year as I do currently.

a) on a scale of 1-10, how structured your personal training regiment is? Very structured (9, as in daily recovery/ workouts) now but little emphasis on climbing. Climbing is simply cross training on my program. b) if you've seen a payoff from "periodizing" your training schedule? I've climbed for years, easy 5.12 trad and hard ice in the past. Trained then by climbing/running. Basic idea was the specificity of training from the eastern block reasearch. If I was only using "climbing" now as workouts yes I would periodize that training for specific goals. c) do you use a modified version of periodization, don't use or even disagree I now use a pretty straight forward periodization program. Been doing it for 5 years and out side of injuries getting stronger and faster every year. Big help in coming back from or preventing injuries I think. But it is not a climbing specific plan. What fitness i might have for climbing comes from my periodization and general fitness level at that point in my training plan. FWIW my experience is climbing has been pretty specific. My thought has been if you want to get better at climbing, climb. Periodization and peaking for a goal is hard enough when you have relative control of the environment. An example is peaking for a road race 12 weeks out. Depending on the style of climbing...say alpine, much of the time frames are definded by the conditions and weather. I have spent weeks at a time tent bound....hard to peak for a climb in that kind of situation. I know Twight suggests it and has done it. I have held true peak form for 4 or 5 weeks before abilities drop off (doing triathlons) but never on a a long climbing trip and never without being in fairly controled environment. (Rock climbing in Yosemite could be a good example of a built/power/peak in periodization depending on your stay) Basically I need to do specific workouts/work loads every day to stay at that level for a "long" period of time. One of the things I wonder about now is if a combination of a periodization general fitness program (crossfit) and an additional climbing specific program in combination wouldn't be the best of both worlds.

After seeing Marc's last climb it is a good thing too My only worry now is who is keeping an eye on Braydon?!

I thought that funnier than shit. Hey, Marc want to go climbing next time you are down this way? PS I already know your Mom keeps tabs on you, thank God

Guess I needed to be more specific. The sooner the better with the good weather forcast. Lead, follow or swap leads, makes no matter. Anyone in decent shape, follows quickly and not a total nob on ice is welcome.

Special? Thought we went through this before....rolling around and moaning on top of you doesn't make "us" special Sobo. Might scare the youngsters away though Difficult enough to find a decent partner these days...sheesh!

It is a shame to waste incredible weather and conditions. I'm in Issaquah, don't mind a drive but can only do mid week.

Good job! This is such a great climb. It is unique because late in the season it is real alpine ice (although a bit short @ 600' of climbing) close to the road and the Seattle area. If you are local you should do it at least once. I read online about a "2 hr" approach. And my hat's off to anyone who hits the bench below the climb in 2hrs from the parking lot even on a dry trail Most wanting to get up this climb during the short days of fall will want to schedule a bit more time in and out for their first trip to OR. In the spirit of full disclose for those looking for accurate approach info on the climb let me add a few details. The road in closes on Oct 20. From the closed Mowich Park entry gate you add 5.5 miles and another 1400' of elevation gain. Park Service says 3 miles from Mowich lake trail head to Spray Park. Another 1300' of gain in that 3/3.5 miles to Spray Park. By the best route possible to the top of the ice on Observation Rock you are looking at 5+ miles total (most will do a mile or so more wondering about) from the trail head parking lot and total of 3000' of gain. Well worth the 11 or 12 mile round trip. Bring your mtn bike or skiis if the gate is locked for the additional 11 miles. Today your mtn bike would be perfect! Couple of pictures (that first got my attention) from Alpine Daves's web site of the last two pitches in exceptional condition. It really is as good as it looks. Reminded me of the N Face of Athabasca. http://www.alpinedave.com/O_Rock/obs_rock.html (Braydon where are the pics of you leading and the shot of Ptarmigan ?!)

Guilty, Iceman Guess I should have mentioned one arm is still numb and can't straighten it out all the way. Second time I have been out since I could walk again. Figured if i kept you entertained making up stories you'd never notice. How come you didn't mention the one about the strippers in Vienna? Glad I brought the rope gun though to take care of me in case I choked. Fugging long walk out for those 4 pitches! Just glad they closed the road today or I'd be tempted to go back this week

Had to look in an old journal to be specific. Fall alpine climbing seems to be the time most will get bit. Oct for me as well and in single boots. Ended up walking out in socks after the bivy and my feet unthawed. Sounds worse than it was for the most part. A little over a month later I was in the Valley doing some of the hardest stuff I had been on. It was a long time however before I didn't notice the cold and seldom alpine climbed in the Rockies again without a dbl boot. Slipstream in early Jan. was a rare exception. That ended single boots as a "winter" alpine option for me outside ice fall cragging

You can make the Spantik as stiff or as flexable as you like by adjusting the lacing. If they fit they should be a fun boot for it. I use mine on touring boards just fine.

The Prime is suppose to be a bit warmer with more insulation and a higher cuff should offer a bit more support. Although Sportiva writes it up like the Prime will climb hard mixed better. Which makes no sense since Gspotter sees what I see in the cuff. High cuff should offer more support and less flexability. The Prime hasn't been delivered in the US yet so most of this (past the Lorica durability) is just speculation. If the Prime is a warmer boot and a bit lighter than the Extreme and dry fasters than the Batura it will be a big hit. FWIW I have a pair on order and won't own the Extreme. Finally it seems to me that Sportiva has returned to a "traditional" boot design built from modern materials. If so their last and fit might well be improved over some of the funky fitting stuff I have bought from them in the last few years. The "Ice" and "Batura" are classic examples. Cool designs, rigid soles and unless you get a perfect fit no way to really lace in your heel or suppurt your ankle. Makes a rigid boot with a extremely soft ankle and generally some heel lift. The Trango and Trango Extreme avoided the lacing problem but still off little support in the ankle for me. I'm hoping the Prime will solve that problem.

Hey Braydon! Feck is right, better skiing there than climbing early in the year. Many climbs actually in the Rockies...just a short drive away from Rogers Pass and Sir Donald, are better goals. And don't get the huge dumps of snow Rogers Pass is famous for. Hang around Dragontail and Stuart on the wrong day and you'll hear similar rumblings of loose rock. But not Mtns generally known for it. Comparing Sir Donald to something like Temple, Kitchener, Hugabee, Deltaform really isn't fair. Really shitty limestone for the most part on all of them, although the lower 1/2 of the central buttress on Temple is very good. Decent quartzite on Sir Donald and mid face on Cavell. Both offer exceptional climbs. Go at the right time and they can be a lark...at they wrong time you could easily die. The NW arete is a better outing imo.

Hey RuMR I was thinking of giving an opinion but wanted to get the facts straight. Bunch of folks have been on Supercrack in the past 29 years. Easy enough to get to from the South Ramp. And a fine line and nice lead it is. Congrads to Jesse as well. My only resevation is the added bolts. (although I enjoyed the TR laps on ROTC without complaint)

Maybe I am misunderstanding this. You tried an onsight last year and failed to free the crack. Came back this year, placed a TR anchor, TR'ed the crack and then lead it clean?

Loose? Better rock than most anything in the Rockies. Quartzite is a lot better there than on the N Face of Cavell. Not really a classic north face (not enough ice) but a decent rock climb. If it gets harder than 5.6 look around. Decent down the NW arete is a bit long

Sorry at the moment can't give any real numbers John. I tried but realized quickly how I climb ice....and it isn't from pullups But a few observations from my own experiences. I think until you get to the point where you are climbing longer sections of vertical ice, (WI5) in bad conditions, technique will long over shadow strength. Your choosen climbing technique (X or A), hang time (or grip strength), good tool cleaning techniques and inventive footwork (placements, movement and rests) go much farther than the number of pull ups you can do. Never could do more than a few pull ups even when I was able to climb 5.12 cracks but, I could hang longer than most. The rests that ability afforded me and decent foot work would generally allow me to get up things. But I never could do a pull up, still can't. When you start talking leashless or leash there are so many other variables that make leashless faster, easier and warmer while climbing ice. The best of the newer tools give you pleanty of hand support. It is just a different area of support than a leash. And yes you can fall off a leashless system and make it impossible to fall out of a leash. Either way you can easily take a whipper if you aren't careful. The question to ask is when and why you'll fall with either system? (which will allow you to climb faster/keep your hands warmer/make fewer placements/save strength) But you'll still need the grip strength and hang time to take advantage of leashless. Not everyone will be able to take advantage of that. (although I think it is more climbers than you might first think) No question, more instant pullup strength will allow you to climb harder at what ever level you are at. But better foot work and balance will generally always out shine any pull up strength. Classic example is the guy and girl who start climbing together...she is a 110# weakling and can't do a pullup. He is a muscle bound stud that can do a one arm pullup. Girl out climbs guy from the very beginning...and by the time he developes the balance and footwork she has, the girl has developed the strength to still stay ahead of him. Finally I don't generally find that pure strength is the issue when I fail on an ice climb. It is generally bad ice which makes tool placements hard (to get in or get out) and worse yet, getting decent pro, that I'd be willing to trust. Most who get to ice climb at their leisure don't take on long sections of vertical ice when it is really cold or rotten. (WA climbers could well be an exception) Both good times to have extra arm stregth and lots of pull up power. By the time you get to that skill level you generally know to come back when conditions are better and the climbing...even on the "hard stuff" easier. Good ice climbers generally argue that there isn't really anything harder than WI5. And we all know the kind of gear that grade was first climber with. Better to go looking for "M" climbing or ice out of condition. Good place to be able to whip out a few dozen one arm pullups

" at this day and age with advances of technology (crampons and tools) i think it's a bit easier- don't you think? " Typical though process from "modern climbers" who haven't been on the '38 route. Not a lot of Americans that have climbed the face even today...even fewer that have soloed it. Not note worthy in the grand scheme of things but a good climb none the less. If Potter actually beat Steck's most recent time...that is something else again.