Dane
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Everything posted by Dane
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"they seem to have a long history of recalls associated with new designs" I wasn't intending a BD bash in my comments. I think you can easily apply dberdinka's comment to any of the climbing hardware manufactures. The real issue is to be aware of what is happening in the industry and be able to make informed choices.
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Stainless 'pons are made in SLC USA afaik.
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JFS? "the thought has crossed my mind at a few...uh...key...moments." For what it costs, and what we risk, why would anyone ever climb on gear you have to question?
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Interesting comment Jens. Last winter while I was in Les Houches/Chamonix, where Simond is located, I was told that Simond had been sold. Turns out that was totally untrue. I just had an email exchange with them and see the web site has been updated and hard goods are still show cased. As far as the steel used in tools? No one gets the "pick of the litter". Every company..here and in the EU...simply orders the specific steel alloy required and it gets delivered. No magic there. The alloy you decide to use, how it is forged (or not forged here in the USA) and heat treated is the real magic. How you define "the best" is up to you.
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Some might find this entertaining..it's long. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/08/crampon-durability-stainless-or.html "The reason behind this particular blog and its information/opinions offered is simple, losing a crampon on route or having a crampon failure while in use can be serious. Fatally serious. That reality bought me to the obvious...a closer look at the quality of the steel used and different manufacturing techniques."
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Regarding the new Petzl NOMIC and ERGO ice tools
Dane replied to Justin-at-Petzl's topic in The Gear Critic
afaik, the new tools aren't in the country yet. Oct/Nov last I checked. -
Got 'um. Thanks Blake!
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most dangerious place to climb in Oregon..everyone needs a spot..to replace brain not engaged. Obvious reaon why parenting should not be the right of every swinging.... well you get the idea..
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Blake, send me a picture of the tools please. Very interested if they are unmolested. Can you do Pay Pal? email is rdburns@cnw.com for the jpegs. thanks
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You won't want to hear this but the MH Direttissima is a great pack for what you want to do. Nothing suggested that is bigger than your Cilo is any better for the lwt day trips you have planned. And none of the bigger packs are something you'll want to run around the Enchantments with after setting up camp. I've used a bigger pack sucked down for day trips or summits and it is never the perfect answer. Basically you'll want a back packing pack to get into the Enchantments (with a big load if you carry everything you have listed) and then you'll want a climbing pack for the day trips. You'll be hard pressed to beat your set up now. Although I prefer the $30 Flash 18 for lwt day use.
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Priscilla....I sent you a PM last night answering your questions.
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awesome climb btw...have fun!
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Spantiks generally fit your shoe size if fitted correctly. The 45.5 stuff should fit a 12. The 45 a 11.5. I do not recommend over sized mtn boots and especially the dbls. Spantiks sizing should match all the other La Sportive Mtn boots, Trangos/Nepal/Baturas. I'd suggest buying the right size and wear a med/light pair of socks to check the fit. Rock shoes I obviously sized down. Nothing new on the boots as that is everything I have. No other jackets Julian..sorry
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167cm Dynastar Super Yeti 167 cm, new. unskied drilled for Dynafit Speeds. Perfect lwt Mtn ski. $150. Fisher lwts asymetricals 180cm $100 drilled for Dynafits Speeds as well, great touring ski, mid fat, used one season 2 sets of Secura-Fix bindings to turn apline DIN bindings into AT bindings..removeable, spring loaded for skinning...$60 a pair. Like new, Crampons...like new BD Stainless, Serac, Pro model. $100 Rock shoes and boots, like new or new Spantik 45.5 $400 Batura 45.5 $350 Denali Intiution inner boots size 12 one mold $100, very light use Scarpa Alveolite liner, new, 12, $40 Kaulkulator blue 44.5 used $60 Syncro white 44 new $75 Mythos purple 43.5 new $60 Woman's Marmot pack new, Med $75 Tents VE 25 3 person new $350 MSR Bug hut 2 new $100 N.F. Slick Rock new $150 North wall hammers, all 50cm $50 each Chacal (2) Chouinard Zero (like, Prema) aluminum handle Pile.. $50 ea. your choice Sherpa AG hoody new Lg grey R1.5 Pull over used XL black Eddie Bauer zip front new Lg black Louis Garneau Chrono Aero Helmet, Tri bike helmet $40 Gamma MX Hoody, red, new, XL, $200 Gamma SV Hoody, red, new XL, $200 Gamma SV Salopette, black, used, LG, excellent $200 Rivendal, classic Jensen LG, green, new, $150. Personal check, cash or Pay Pal via direct transfer only. Buyer pays actual USPS shipping and tracking. Pick up in Iss. or Seattle Center is easy. The idea is to limit questions/pictures by offering great prices. Most know my repuation. If not I'll offer a full refund less shipping and Pay Pal fees on a 48 hr inspection after delivery *AND* email notification you have changed your mind on anything that is unused or unworn outdoors by the buyer. Post questions here and I'll try to answer if you need specifics More gear to be listed asap . BD front points and picks coming.. assorted pitons ropes cams biners winter gloves For the collectors: Choinard Alpine hammer, like new, 3rd gen, long hickory handle $100 Chouinard and Salewa crampons
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Fun that this contest made me go look for the original photos instead of scanning a bad photo that was 25 years old. REALLY fun for me to actually find them! Great pictures by everyone..thanks for posting them and the sponosr support!
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You guys rock!
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As Feck said, but I did a couple of good lines off the top of Chinook on the north sides. Going fast there though. But super easy approach for a bad foot and a 1/2 day so seems like a good option. Montana? Let's see soem pictures
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http://www.dynafit.us/product/clothing/touring-dry-m-l-s-tee •High thermal isolation and wind protection through extra front lining •Optimal moisture circulation through ventilation channel on back •Perfect adjustability through extra-long zipper I ordered the wrong size and have a new one coming.. Normal price is $140. Dynafit clothing is hard to come by in the US. This one is best thought of as a high tech lycra pullover. Dbl layered in front and V vented in back. Great for aerobic skiing, trail running, mtn bike or alpine rock. $75. Black in color, white stitching, new with tag, delivered in the US.
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Have to think that is shorts ighted Graham. The advantage of the 12 equal down points is a big deal. I can easily say that because I noticed the difference early on, having climbed in the new Stinger, the Cyborgs and the only other 12 down, the newest Sabertooth. Spend a day on a pair of new Sabertooths and the obvious advantages of the 12 down (which Petzl smartly mimic'ed here) are clearly noticable. Instead of a "fast" copy of the Dart (which is what the Stinger is) they should have put that R&D into this "new" crampon pattern that Petzl went for. Petzl was two or three steps ahead on design with the Lynx but sadly nothing new, just all done better and finally all in one package.
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"So it's basically a G14 with easier FP removal?" Nope, better look again.
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How much do you want to spend? Dynafit and Scarpa both have some really nice boots. As does Black Diamond and host of others If you know you want to ski...and have the cash their are some amazing choices if the lasts fit your feet. Some big discounts to be had this time of year now as well. Best I have used that are currently available would be the Dynafit TLT TF (no X). But that is just one of many. You really need to make the drive to Marmot in Bellevue to get started.
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Here are some guys who regularly ski in the Dynafit suits out climbing recently. Brian is still in his tights. And a SV puffy http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Black-Ice-Couloir-Grand-Teton-Photo-Essay/t11086n.html No one, not even Ueli climbs cold technical ground fast enough to stay warm in just the Dynafit suit. And taking a crap is a pisser.