obsydian

A prime example of the nonsense that gets posted and clutters up the poor bastard trying to get good information. Keep it in spray.

You should start leading right away. Leading is about protection and placing pro. Can you reliably place protection that will not fall out, that will hold every time, etc. If you can climb 5.9 then go lead a 5.2, wimpy as it may seem. Get the experience of setting pro, clipping in, trying it out in a relatively safe situation. Practice placing pro and leading harder routes top roped until you are confident. But don't wait for weeks to get going. Enjoy!

Love that #0.5, grown fond of #0.75 although a bit close in size, #1, #2, haven't had use for 3.5, too big and heavy.

You're making pretty fast tracks NEWSTIPS! I see you've picked up about 20 entries in the last couple of days. Go over to spray and put in mindless dribble for a couple of weeks, you'll soon be a ropegun and everyone will think you are an expert!

What's a name cost these days, just need an idea, need to know if I can buy a new ice screw or save up for the name.

Then how come I see titles like Spray Princess, Chief Gaping Officer, real world las vegas, uber plab, etc?

I've played around with flukes in practice, they just don't seem to make sound enough placements in the cascades given other alternatives. Not sure where flukes would really work, but I'll do without them around here.

Absolutely! I see people "conditioning" on Si with 30 lbs on their back, up and down in 4 hours, then expect to climb Rainier without further problems and fail. You should be taking 60 lbs up Si (mostly water), and do it several times, or get out on some really long climbs. Go up to Muir with 60 lbs. You're training needs to exceed the demands of the climb. And for sure, use your climbing boots

A good strenuous climb will take out about 7,000 calories a day. But then I find that 3 plates at the Mongolian Grill after adds back about 7,500. Man that stuff is good after all that trail food!

Having looked down that North side, isn't something I'd want to climb without protection.

A few years ago when I first got into this equipment raquet, I was told to buy a picket. When I saw that the 36" was only $3 more then the 24", I couldn't pass up that great bargian! I'm going to cut it down to 24" as soon as I can find the time!

Actually, I hope my wife doesn't find out how big this one is, too many questions to answer!

$313. Man, what did my wife buy at REI this last year?! Anybody else have a big spending spouse?

What happened to your picture Trask? They yank it again?

Pretty much class 3 up the backside, can get up and down without a rope when dry, don't know if there is ice up there right now which might make it slippery. Have fun, be safe!

Received this e-mail: ------------------------------------------------------ From: richard.fournier@generale-des-eaux.net Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 20:04:03 +0100 Subject: contact Hello, my name is Richard Fournier, I'm 32 years old and I'm living in France near Lyon. I would like to spend 2 weeks in Washington state at end of june, to visit Seatlle and to climb Mount Rainier. But I have no contact and noone I know in Seatlle. So I'm looking for someone who can receive me and guide me for the first days, to find transport, a camping and the way to go to Mount Rainier National Park, and next to Seatlle. Can you help me ? I hope soon because I have to reserve a fly from Paris to Seattle. Thank you very much for your help ! R Fournier --------------------------------------------------------------- If you are interested in making contact, send an e-mail. Maybe he'll reciprocate when you travel to Europe. I don't know anything about this person, just passing on the request.

Generally, I get a smile when I see dogs out where I am snowshowing, particulary search and rescue dogs. I was concerned however, the last time I was in the Chair Peak bowl above Source Lake and there were lots of bloody footprints from dogs. Owners should take care of their pets to make sure they don't get injured.

Seems the most popular reason I've run across is rotation when ascending. We did 3 runs up a 12 foot section of rope, and here are the results: 1) both wrapped left - 1/3 turn 2) opposed - 3/4 turn 3) both wrapped right - 2/3 turn We concluded that opposed or not doesn't make much or any difference in rotation, and it is clearly not a safety issue for anyone to concern themselves with. Thanks for all replies.

over 70 miles on the PCT

MOFA refresher, hope it rains so I won't feel so bad

works for me. you probably did a bunch of work, and what thanks do you get, so yeah

Have you ever seen those little black snow worms crawling over the glacier? Don't know what they are called, but watching them crawl around will sure make you filter.

Way to go engineers!

I've been told two reasons: 1) If not opposed, you will 'spin' around ascending the rope 2) Makes it easier to climb with two hands on the knots as your thumbs can work each knot loose easier if opposed Trying to figure out if this is folklore

I'd put a picture in but can't figure out how to get it to display, only tag along as an attachment.