Dustin_B

"According to statistics from the American Avalanche Association, approximately 70 percent of avalanche fatalities are caused by suffocation; approximately 30 percent are the result of trauma." from here

Does anyone out there who backcountry skis (or snowshoes) in the winter/spring refuse to get/use an avalanche beacon because they cost to much money? A friend of mine, who recently started backcountry skiing, refuses to get one because he says they are too expensive. He is convinced that the chances of surviving an avalanche are so low the only chance of survival is to avoid them. Therefore a beacon is only used for body recovery and not worth it. (He went to a lecture or seminar and the "avie guy" gave him some false stats on survival rate or something I think). He says he would only buy a beacon if the people he was planning to go with made him carry one. (this doesn't mean he would know how to use it, or care to learn however). He thinks I am overly cautious/safe for wanting to get one, as we have a couple other friends who feel the same way as he does. He believes it is just "bold" to not use one and all the people who use one are less bold. (probably along the same lines of soloing 4th or low 5th class rock). He has no avalanche training besides that hour-long lecture/seminar. I would think all the avies in B.C. last season would change his mind but apparently not as I just talked to him. Do you ever go backcountry skiing in the winter/spring without a beacon (either because they cost too much or for some other reason)? Do you ever let someone who doesn't have a beacon and the skill to use one, go with you? Do you feel beacons are more of a luxury item that you can do without if you just avoid avie terrain, or are they a necessity? I'm of the belief that they are a necessity and I don't think I'll go backcountry skiing in the winter/spring with out one. (I don't currently own a beacon but I'm in the market. I also haven't been backcountry skiing in the winter/spring so this question is from a newbie perspective.)

Also, the Black Diamond catalog says of the fritschi bindings: "can accommodate any AT or alpine boot meeting ISO Standards 9523 or 5355". What does that mean? I tried searching these standards on the ISO website and other places but can't find squat. Does this just mean any mountain boot with toe and heel welts?

Thanks for the great info. A friend of mine rented some skis with Silvretta bindings (probably 555). He had some problem with a release button (?) getting stuck in the down/open position and he kept releasing real easily (like while skinning) until he rigged some duct tape underneath it or something. Not real sure on the details as I wasn't there. He was really pissed at the bindings though. Made me weary of these bindings. Any one experience anything like that? Maybe it was because they were rentals and had been thrashed around???

You forgot one other option; 4. when it is a picture of an extremely popular mountain, the poster assumes every one will know what it is and therefore may not mention this info. Like when I posted a picture of Baker on the first weekend photo thread and didn't provide details. It wasn't because of laziness. That said, when I post something in the gallery it will always get this info even if the picture is of the south side of Rainier.

I don't want to be an asshole here, but there are plenty resources (inc. the manufacturer's websites) where you can find all the answers for less work. Start at www.skimountaineer.com Actually it is less work to post a question here And when I said "so what is the advantage of the 555 over Fritchi Diamir?" That is doing exactly what you suggested and finding specific bindings and asking about them. That is asking for an opinion. I doubt I would find that on the manufacturer's website. PS - of course you meant to be an asshole, that is your natural state, as evident in your second post when you *attempt* be belittle me with name calling.

Alright... curiosity is killing me. What is the Mounties "fraternization policy" Cheers There is no such policy in the Everett Branch. (2 of my friends, one instructor, one student, met and started dating throughout the class). Don't know if the other branches have a policy like that. If they do that is the most ridiculous thing I've heard. This is the kindest non-anti-mountaineers thread I have every seen. What is wrong with you people today?

What about the Atomic TM 22 for AT skis? They are pretty light. I know they market them for Tele, but someone told me they worked well for AT too. Are tele skis typically softer than AT and is that the reason you don't typically cross over tele to AT?

What are main differences between the Silvretta 555, 505, 500, 404? I know the toe bail is different between the 555 and 500 and the 500 can accept mountain boots. Any other major differences? I heard someone mention the 555 are heavier than the Fritchis and don't accept mountain boots so what is the advantage of the 555 over Fritchi Diamir? Thanks.

The following was forwarded to me through a chain of emails. I've withheld the author's name. I don't know how the author acquired this new info nor can I vouch for it's accuracy, obviously, so take this new info with a grain of salt. Maybe Freeman or someone else can verify it.

I think this deserves it's own thread. Thanks. sorry to change the topic back to AT but.. I'm thinking about going with the BD Mira and Fritschi Diamir 3 bindings. This will be my first AT setup (currently have only downhill skis). Is this a pretty good setup? Is this on the heavy end, light end, or in the middle? From the catalogue, looks like this setup is under 11 lbs. I guess what I am asking is how much does a really light weight ski/binding setup weigh? I'm an okay downhill skier (can get down most stuff inbounds) and I'm looking for a good touring setup that doesn't chatter too much on hard snow (I'm fat so I don't want too much flex). thanks.

Go to the beach in Barcelona (many fine naked honeys) and stay in co-ed hostels rooms.

Refer to the most recent climbing accident thread for your answer.

My condolences to the family and friends. Does anyone know if the rope was in the climber's belay device when the body was recovered? The previous articles said the climber and rope fell together. But in the situation mentioned in the most recent article (both climbers on ledge, one fell), I don't see how the rope could have fallen too.

Any one know how the superlights are for fat kids? How stiff are they? I weigh 210 lbs without gear. I don't want a bunch of chattering on hard snow. I would be using them as AT not tele. thanks.

Okay, I'll play too. click me

And he'll only have to stop 6 times to piss on a 5 mile approach....

Beckey route on Liberty Bell on Saturday. I really suck at climbing by the way. Sunday it started raining in the morning and we were tired so we went home. Stopped at the bunny restaurant in Marblemount for breakfast (highly recommended ), where I got mildly molested by some short older scary women because I was wearing some furry fleece.

Good work, thanks for the info.

Thanks for the beta. I don't think I want any part of this monkey business either...

Has any one climbed the North Face of Big Four in the summer? There is like 2 sentences in the Beckey guide about it. Anyone have any more beta on it? Rock/pro quality, difficulty (Beckey says "class 4"), time, descent? Thanks.

Well, since you asked... On Saturday we climbed Ruth Mountain and Icy Peak (east of Shuksan). Neither mountain is very high, (~7,000 ft each) but both had small glaciers to cross. For such small glaciers there were several large crevasses. Much more so than expected. We were expecting an easy day, what we got was 17.5 hours car-to-car. Didn't look close enough at the map before hand to realize we were in for + 6,500 feet of elevation gain. Plus it is a long way from Ruth to Icy too. Incredible views of Shuksan, Nooksack Tower, Nooksack Cirque, etc. Soon after we got down to Hannagan Pass the thunder, lighting, and rain started. Hiking down the trail in the rain at night was pretty cool. Lots of strange smells and creatures abound. Good times.

Since when do you have to take a course to learn how to climb?

The mountainears teach a "scrambling" course??? yep, reread the first couple pages of the thread. It is very popular, dare I say more so than the basic climbing course ?!

Ursa, I think a lot of people here who are laughing at these pictures have taught total newbies how to climb. I really enjoy taking newbies out into the mountains and seeing them learn and enjoy climbing. I think its great that the chubby guy is out in the woods and not sitting on the couch, but the activities shown in these pictures are pretty silly. To me they demonstrate that the Mountaineers (and similar groups) are often more about subjecting people to meaningless, humiliatingly simple rites-of-passage rather than teaching climbing skills the way a friend would for example. Newbies Climbing clubs Uhm y'all are forgetting that this these aren't pictures from a 'climbing' course; this is a scrambling course, which I guess is like hiking to most of you. The climbing course covers more advanced skills like free soloing trails and aiding trails. I am getting a lot of laughs from the picture though. (and I hate rappelling too) he, he.