catbirdseat

Sure, you just might have a problem. That's why you have the option of rappelling a single strand while on belay with the other strand. Best of both worlds. You control your rate of descent, you are backed up by the belay. In the previous discussion, there was one fellow who says he always ties into the end of the rope(s) he is rappelling. So in that case there is a bight or bights hanging down the route. If the rope became stuck, you could tie a backup knot right below you, untie from the end, pull up the rope, rethrow, tie into the end again.

Muffy, I think you meant Z-Clipped.

I was waiting for someone to mention the option of lowering. I think it was Mattp who mentioned that once in another thread. If you wanted to, in a double rope rappel, you could rappel one one strand, with the tail in a bag, and be lowered or belayed on the other strand. Or you could just be lowered one strand and drag the other along.

Best news I've heard from our local gubbermint in a while. Bad news is how long it's going to take before it's finished. 2029!

My man, you got me all wrong! Black is beautiful! It's like my wife says, "when it's brown, it's cookin', when it's black, it's done!"

I have a live trap you are welcome to try. You may get lucky and catch a coon. If you don't like drowning them, the recommended procedure, you can take them for a long ride in the car and make them someone else's problem. I suggest that you bar the door at night. The coons will only enter when they know you are asleep in bed. We don't have problems with coons entering the cat door because we have a dog. Here's another idea. Put the cat food where the cat can jump but the coons can't. I don't think coons can jump as high as a cat.

Pots and Kettles arguing with each other about their relative blackness.

Funny you should mention this. Look at what is in the news.49 More Miles of Light Rail: You'll get to vote "The expanded light rail would take the line as far south as the Tacoma Dome and as far north as Ash Way near Mill Creek, and would include an extension to Bellevue and Overlake, plus additions to Sounder commuter rail and express bus service. These changes alone add more than $1 billion to the base cost estimates."

I would assume that panic attacks come amidst large groups of strangers. If the crowd was mostly friends and acquaintences, does it have the same effect on you?

That's hilarious.

Most of the time, I don't. There are advantages to shallow placements. You can better examine the quality of the placement for one thing. Occasionally you'll have a flare in which you can find the best placement deep inside, or possibly the cam just walks too far in. In horizontals, sometimes you feel better about the placement if the cable isn't over the edge. Thus, you seat it deeply. Large cams clean easily. It's the small ones that can be difficult.

Quick, call the Wahmbulance.

There are a few cam designs, such as the DMM, where it is claimed that it can be difficult to clean the cam from deep placements. I'd heard that some people add a small loop of light cord to the trigger bar to facilitate retrieval. I could see pluses and minuses about this. You'd want to be careful not to make this cord too long, as it could get snagged in a fall and cause the cam to pull out or break the wires. Some smaller u-stemmed cams like TCUs can be hard to clean if placed too deeply. Have you ever added trigger extensions or retrieval cords to any of your cams? How was it done? Did it help or just get in the way?

Hugh Banner died on Monday at a hospital where he'd been fighting an illness. I cannot find much more information than that.

Light Rail going to the airport was a STUPID idea. People don't COMMUTE to the airport. There already was excellent bus, taxi and limousine service to the airport. On the other end, they are stopping at the University District where there is no parking and no large bus terminal. Again Stupid. The line should have been built in three phases. First from Downtown to Northgate, where there is a HUGE park and ride. Then from Downtown to Southgate. Finally from Northgate to Lynnwood. The line as built will definitely make it quick and easy for politicians to fly in and out of SeaTac so they can visit downtown Seattle. It goes to show that things get done for political reasons, not because they make sense.

I ran into a group of Vancouverites at Vantage once. This group was visiting for the first time. They thought it was fun. They'd been rained out of Squamish several weekends in a row and thought it was pretty cool that there was a place they could climb in the sun in shorts and tee shirts.

There doesn't seem to be an underlying chordal structure or any theme that I can recognize. The music isn't going anywhere. There is no phrasing, no dynamics.

At least some of the Three O'Clock Rock climbs will be dry enough. By "Green Mountain" you weren't actually thinking of Green Giant Buttress, were you?

How would any nut ever work in a flared crack? You still need some constriction. Aha, I'm glad you asked. Cracks are three-dimensional creatures. You can have constriction in the x-axis and flare in the y-axis.

Wow!

Do the math. Volume is proportional to mass. And V= 4/3pi®^3

I think people complain about the descent because they consider SCW as a crag climb rather than an alpine rock climb. No one complains of the descent off Exfoliation Dome which takes three times longer, just because no one mistakes it for a crag climb.

I stand corrected. Indeed, snowshoes might be needed for Stuart.

No. Snowshoes are definitely not needed. I don't think that the new snow affects this either because it has likely melted or hardend below the lake. Snow level on Friday morning was circa 3,000 ft, but as Bill says was above 4,000 ft on Sunday.

Holy crap, those had to be scary noises! Bill, of course we'd be interested in some pictures. Thanks for chiming in. What a difference a day makes!