catbirdseat

Woo Hoo!

I was totally impressed. But those beans were even more impressive--I'm still thinking of them. When you are done with your gal, can I have her? What a goddess in the kitchen!!! Keep talking like that and WC's GF will be a cc.com regular.

No question, that judge should be disbarred and be made to pay the legal fees of he couple he has been harrassing. Then he should be sent to a mental institution.

So what's new? Bush says you're a terrorist and you go to Guantanamo Bay. Is losing you right to buy a gun worse than losing your liberty?

This is supposed to be a picture of Skyclimb on the Approach. WTF?

Style it like this guy.

CPB shows his face.

Doctors take a hippocratic oath. I think the word you were after is hypocritical.

I was delighted to meet Alex Bertulis. He's a really nice guy. Chris Grayell's slides of Roan Wall and Salish Peak really ignited the stoke.

The following metals are flammable: Lithium (Li), Sodium (Na), Potassium (K), Rubidium (Rb), Cesium (Cs), Magnesium (Mg) The alkali metals all react violently with water (first 5 in list, above), with lithium being the least reactive and cesium being the most reactive.

I didn't do any math. I just guestimated.

If your sling is made out of 5 feet of tied webbing it is 48 inches long. If the bolts are 12 inches apart that leaves 36 inches. The legs are 18 inches long if you use an American Triangle. The angle between strands is about 40 degrees. If you use a sliding X, the legs are 9 inches long. The angle is now about 150 degrees. The force on the bolts would be unacceptably large.

It's a large Metolius cam with a blue sling. It was protecting the short traverse under the roof. It just walked it's way in.

The rap route has numerous flakes and horns that can catch your rope when you pull it. It caught twice on us, but fortunately in both cases we only had to climb up a short distance on easy rock to free it. We were doing double rope raps, which probably makes problems more likely. Twice, we had rocks come down when pulling the rope and a small one even hit one of us.

You aren't making it any more interesting with your contribution. I suggest that you just go elsewhere. The point I was trying to make with this thread is that redundancy is important in climbing. Some people seem to not fully understand the concept while others do. Don't pass up the opportunity for a redundant rappel anchor unless you have no other choice, that's all I'm saying. In response to Dru, the load on each bolt is approximately 1.4 times the load on the rope, which is a modest price to pay for redundancy. If you have two shoulder length slings, naturally, you can reduce the force to 0.5.

Climbing Ride the Lightning the other day, I noticed bail slings hanging off single bolts. No doubt this was because someone had only a single rope. What was remarkable was that even where there was a belay anchor with two or more bolts, the bailing party used only one of the bolts. The slings were girth hitched when they could have been doubled. Doubling would not only have been stronger, but would have made it easier for the next party to clean from the bolt. I think that an American Triangle would have been preferable to use of only one bolt. Is this not so? Assume that the bolts are 10 inches apart. You'd have redundancy, if not proper equalization. A friend of mine suggested a variant of the American Triangle that uses clove hitches at each bolt. Would this not allow better equalization when all you have is a single shoulder length sling? The girth hitches would use up an additional 5" or so. It would only work if the bolts were pretty close together. Down side would be that it'd be PITA to set up.

Did you carry tennis shoes up the route for the descent?

But you ruined my joke. Marzipan is great stuff. It can make you happy. Try it.

Gas price related? I think not, more like competition from video games and a host of other diversions.

Marzipan does it for me.

I liked the route a lot, actually. For some reason I was worrying about this and that early on and that cut into the enjoyment factor, but all turned out well in the end. I just left all my troubles behind at fourth belay station. I was wondering if anyone could vouch for the 4th Class Descent Gully. There was so much potential for rope snagage and rock fallage on Gangsta Rap, that I'd be willing to try something else next time.

You wouldn't want to leave the head in. Pull gently and steadily until, hopefully, he comes off. If the head breaks off you'll either have to go in after it with a needle or have a doctor do it.

Very good point, I bet that those first anchors on Roger's Corner were used about 1/10 as much the JG anchors were. I wonder why those weren't chopped? Because whoever chopped Japanese Gardens did it for purely SELFISH reasons. He wanted to ensure that fewer climbers would be on what he considers to be HIS route, so that he doesn't have to wait.

Check frequently so you can catch them before they are deeply embedded and easy to remove.

Well, the safe ideas have pretty much run their course. Now for each safe way, there must be a dozen unsafe ways- enough to keep this thread going for a long time. Well, of course someone could start a new Insane Rappel Methods thread.