billcoe

Our pleasure Jim, I'll climb with you again anytime you'd have me! BTW, note to the rest of you pups, at our age, we have to chalk just to climb out of bed in the morning. errr, I'll try to minimise my useage on the rocks though.

Probably don't need this info either: Isn't the next valley over American Forks, more shade, probably find less people too, (plus more Horse and Deer flies). Good routes. You'd be staring at one of the prime reasons BDiamond moved there. Also highly recommended on the must do list: swimming in the great salt lake. Take soem fresh water bottles to wash the salt out of your eyes.

huh?

ps, glad I'm not ducknut. Ducknut, isn't right down the way is some of the best rockclimbing in the states, little cottonwood canyon? Solid granite. Very historical as well. They quarried some of it to make the Mormon Tabernacle. Go thee to thy cracks kind ducknut! Grab a partner and do se do dude! If you are trying to save money I can direct you to a cave whereby you can sleep and stay dry.

Climbed with Joseph and Jim Anglin on Sat. at Beacon. Did the 5 pitches of Yw to the top, walked down and Jim left to go windsurfing, then Joseph and I went and did Little Wing and then Jills Thrill as my age (and Josephs montezumas revenge - just back from Mexico) finally started to show. The 2 highlights of the day were climbing with J and J. I had never had the privilage of climbing with Jim Anglin despite having almost killed him once 15-20 years earlier. He's got quite the reputation as a decent person, good guy and such: it was awesome climbing with him since he's such good company: and they were both climbing soooo strong, and Joseph was doing remarkable despite cramps and stuff. It was a near perfect day, climbing fast and safe with good weather and good company. The next best thing of the day was when I finished the lead on little wing, having a stong looking young guy named Paul tell me something like "dude, that was an amazing lead up there, just incredible". I think he meant it too cause he didn't ask to borrow gear or money after saying it. Normally I have to pay money for compliements so that was very refreshing. Very. We told that party about CC.com, so maybe they'll show up, be nice to them please if they do. It's a little bizarre to be the youngest of the party at 51 years old. Today I went into work early this AM and cranked 4 hours of work in 3 hours and then bouldered at the Butte, dinner with the family was supurb, mom made shrimp and scallop salad, fresh corn on the cob, tomatoes and fried baby potatos. Desert was a moist coffee cake she made, it was perfect. Now I'm back home typing and my wife is outside working in the yard, I should go help out. Water my shallots or something. I still have sore muscles today from spending the time with Joseph, I need to get in better shape or he needs to get sicker in order for me to keep up.

I agree, but it is a hard habit to break, I'm trying and thanks for the reminder. It amazes me to see people doing the low traverse on pussy wall at the Butte, hardest move 5.5, 1-3 feet off the deck, chalk, step, move other foot, chalk, chalk other hand, move feet...chalk chalk, feet ... repeat as necessary. BTW, I suspect your detailed routefinding report for YW on the internet will help large amounts of people find and thus chalk the holy shit out of that route. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/424372/an/0/page/0/gonew/1#UNREAD Maybe you can edit it and give up the detailed instructions on Your route which goes up and R from the first pitch. It might not ever see any chalk anyway..... might get cleaned up some! I think that the use of chalk will result in common cases of lung disease in @ 10 years. But thats me.

The guide sucks, no doubt, but what kind of "trade goods" are we talking about? Green and leafy?

Best answer of the month above. Michael, who would you recommend they see, I noticed that regular doctors usually recommend a surgeon and then you get "Ta da" (musical interlude) surgery. Which sometimes is or is not, the best course depending on if you get lucky. Sorry, I have a low view of surgery for things like this, neck and back pain.

Count your blessings Ian: Pink is what these pics of a fall on sloe children show. BTW: best part after the pics: "After asking me if I was conscious my partner lowered me to the belay ledge." not a sloe fall regards: BTW, I might still have your broken #2 wired Joseph dug out at Beacon and gave to me:-) I had it around for a while and then I stuck myself with the loose wires, might have pitched it all pissed off. Bill

Dude, I'm sure I speak for everyone, INCLUDING all of us who have done that route in a day. You are welcome to show up here anytime with great pics like that of Liberty Bell. I mean, I'm sitting in a frigan cubical right now. Nothing in the vacinity compares to your TR. I don't care if it took you a week to siege it even, bring it all on! Great stuff. thanks from all of us: Side note: as I age I get stupid, so it took me a bit to figure this Acroynym out so I'l share, LCIAD = Liberty Crack In a Day. DOHHHH (Vs LBBECKYROUTEIAD? ) EDIT TO ADD DOHHH

As a quick note: tlaked to Nolse last night. Says he was parked down by Birds/White Rabbit. He thinks that the berm hid the smash and grab, as it was that side next to that berm which (mostly) hid the dickhead from prying eyes. I've never thought of it before, but parking in the open looks to be the way to go.

Like after work @5:30-6pm?

Anyone showing up tuesday.... tonight?

Err.... Lake Oswego of course. Near the N end of the Lake on a RR cut. It's in the PDX rock climbs book I believe.

Where is grnal ridge?

Not necessarilly startling news: http://news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&u=/ap/20050711/ap_on_sc/unesco_everest_1 "JOHANNESBURG, South Africa - Edmund Hillary, the first climber to conquer Mount Everest with his Sherpa guide, on Monday urged that the world's highest mountain be placed on the United Nations' list of endangered heritage sites because of the risks of climate change. ADVERTISEMENT Himalayan lakes are swelling from the runoff of melting glaciers, environmental campaigners warned as the 29th session of the U.N. Environmental, Scientific and Cultural Organization's World Heritage Committee got under way Sunday in Durban. Many could burst, threatening the lives of thousands of people and destroying Everest's unique environment, they said. "The warming of the environment of the Himalayas has increased noticeably over the last 50 years. This has caused several and severe floods from glacial lakes and much disruption to the environment and local people," Hillary said in a statement released Monday. "Draining the lakes before they get to a dangerous condition is the only way to stop disasters." The New Zealander, who with Sherpa Tenzing Norgay first scaled the world's highest peak on May 29, 1953, is one of a collection of climbers and others who have joined environmental groups in calling for the inclusion of Nepal's Everest National Park on UNESCO's World Heritage in Danger List. Inclusion would commit UNESCO to assessing the risk to the park and developing corrective measures in conjunction with the government of Nepal. Climate change caused by greenhouse gas emissions from industrialized countries also threatens the coral reefs in Belize and glaciers in Peru, according to activists who have petitioned for their inclusion too on the endangered list. UNESCO's World Heritage Committee is responsible for implementing the 1972 U.N. Convention on the protection of cultural and natural sites around the world. Forty-two new sites will be proposed for inclusion on the body's World Heritage List at the weeklong meeting in Durban. The list already protects 788 sites, of which 35 are designated as endangered." EOM

Hi John: I generally try to stay off of that stuff. Especially 10s and 11s. Short of driving to Yos and doing generator crack, Moby Dick, or Reeds: King Kong (5.9) I think at Smith is pretty wide (and more like 5.10 stout) in places. I went out there with Steve Strauch, the FF Ascencionist years ago, and as we are racking up he recounted to me the story of the first free ascent how he got way the hell up there and ran out like 30-40 feet or so and as he's getting to the 5.9 crux he sees a 1/4 split shank construction bolt with a flimsy piece of 1/4 wide white webbing spun, not seen to the really tied, around the bolt. Jesus, says I, what did ya do? "I clipped it and made the move trying not to fall" he replies. Luck of the draw I lead the crux pitch, get way the F* up there, run out like he says, there's a 1/4 split shank construction bolt with a flimsy piece of 1/4 wide real faded white webbing spun, not seen to the really tied, around the bolt. You've got to be F*en kidding me, I think, and in that moment before I start peeing myself uncontrollably, I look left and see an irregularity in the cliff face, I make few moves and it turns out to be a shallow dihedral like @ 10 feet long that I immediatly put 4 pieces in, then I clip it and go, relieved to not have pissed uncontrollably on myself in front of one of my idols. Also, 5th pitch of Free Lunch on picnic lunch wall at Smith is pretty wide, as is free for all at Beacon the left side I think: just look, but you are not forced strictly in the crack. Hey, what are the details of the car breakin? (other thread would be better, you put that in lost and found.) later: Bill

I think one of the best posts was over on RC.com. Here's the link. Unfortunatly, I just finished drinking wine, beer, and soda, eating brownies, cake and a bunch of other crap. It's all will power. We all know what is good for us, it's lack of will power that kills me, not lack of knowledge. check this. How to lose weight to improve your climbing

Follow up, after watching the rain all afternoon from my window, I dialed Joseph's cell phone @ just before 4pm to see which bar they had escaped the incessant rain to and see how long they had lasted. They were still up there on the cliff, replacing the webbing on one of those routes - trying to work around the rain. I might have been tempted to called bull*hit , but a train interupted our call, confirming they were really there. Hardcore.

Thanks for the compliments, but Joseph has done most of the work. As I look outside my cubical window right now, stretching some sore muscles and looking at my sunburn from yesterdays rock toss fest, it's raining, and those guys are still at it. (unless they hunkered down in Skamania lodge with a pint or 2). Joseph has done a remarkable job co-ordinating with all of the official types as well throughout the year, hell yesterday he even had an official outline with a picture to point to locations of the project so when we met with the Washington parks and various wildlife officials Lisa, Kelly, John and David we could discuss the days schedule and plan: he had everything but a powerpoint presentation, so big kudos to JH. The highlight of the day would have been locating the Peregrine scrape, but it was still good anyway.

Sorry dude, I just re-read your post - you are looking for easier stuff. I'm sorry. Beacon is really mostly harder stuff. The one 5.6 I know out there will kill you if you don't pro it correctly and scares almost every 5.8 leader who gets on it (Boardwalk). J kirby answered it correctly. Try Horsethief for a wide variety of TR, (R Butte is harder stuff although you can boulder on top), Smith is the next best, then Broughtons. Theres a little bolted wall in Lake Oswego that might interest your for 20 min or so.

Beacon Rock is some of the best climbing in Oregon. (I say that to tweak my Washingtonian brothers like Ivan who nailed this response already) Trad skills are required almost exclusivly. Walking on the south side looking up at 200 foot plus high splitter finger and hand cracks still makes me moist. Opens Sunday. Your mileage may vary, tax, license, dealer prep may be optional.

Opps, kind of got scared thinking about it. I'm back clean and ready to spray. This reminds me of climbers on the white cliffs of Dover. Using ice tools and screws in chalky rock as a new technique to climb the stuff. How about "Gorge brand dirt pickets" and "Gorge brand loose rock deadmans"? Remember to send the residuals to me in case this takes off and you get rich selling tools to this new breed of dirt climber.

I sent my letter.

Wait, I was out at Beacon yesterday, this happened 2 days ago....sorry ....Wednesday. What are the full details, theres a lot of people up there in the evenings anymore, usually with you, that's pretty brazen for anybody to do, esp with the bible college dorm windows looking right out at you.