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billcoe

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Everything posted by billcoe

  1. BTW, my lat still hurts, (hey, the "Bill, our interest in your lat's can be measured in Micro-Give-A-Shits replys can hold off for now). I'll be there to belay, offer moral support and stretch. If it feels OK, I might jump on something easy. If it's just a few of us,. we can hang off the cliff and do the easy routes Fuenos and I did last month. (tiger paws and the next route ... like 5.9 or 10A) bring a wisk broom. If more folks show up, you guys mark your spot to climb and I'll follow the herd as long as it's not too big. Last Thursday I showed up and NO ONE! was there when I arrived. NO ONE!- no cars or people. Thought I'd fallen in a time machine and went back 10 years till you guys showed up. Nice day, just the right amount of people.
  2. Nolse: name my price? Dog or Gear? I'll pay ya $100 to haul the dawg off. The price goes up with every carpet shit bomb I step on. We flew those GD carpets in from Nepal: they were handmade by Tibetian Refugees. The third one upstairs which I noticed last night is smelling like dawg piss was a gift from my brother last Nepal trip he made. We have a carpet steamer, and it looks like a race between who will get the last word in on if it will be clean or messed up: which the little dog currently is winning. Gear: uhhh, too hard to part with. My long time partner of 25 years retired @ 4 years ago cause he got permanently dizzy of all things: , he might want to part with some gear, he had a lot of Chouinard stuff including ice gear I believe.
  3. Must be like the difference between "Smackdown" and "Raw".
  4. You guys get paid by the word?
  5. From someone else: Tomaž is rescued, no dire consequences 10.8.05 08:16 CET At 4.30 a.m. we were already outside our tents, looking to the sky. The stars had set, the blueness of the sky covered with a red light from the weak sun – but the mountain! Its peak covered in fog. It was the first time this had happened in the morning, if the skies were clear. The fog stretched throughout the Nanga Parbat mountain chain but gradually began to tear. At 5.30 a.m. we began checking the time, concerned. Although we had alerted the pilots an hour ago that the skies were clear, they had still not returned. Tomaž had not called in either. What happened – he knew the rescue was taking place in the early morning! Suddenly we heard a roaring sound. The pilots had not wasted their time: they took another quick look at the footage and flew off! But what about Tomaž? He finally called in! Thank God! He almost froze (the night was clear and cold). He did not get a wink of sleep and kept warm by digging snow. He barely hung on to the morning and then he fell asleep. It was the sound of the roaring helicopter directly next to him, which woke him up. We were able to follow the helicopter via station as it approached and backed away again, Tomaž screamed into the station that he could see it and the pilot confirmed he could see a waving alpinist dressed in red. Tomaž waited, tied to two ice screws with a loose prusik knot so he would not stagger while trying to catch the weights on the rope. The helicopter approached him, dropped the rope, Tomaž caught it, wrapped it around himself, raised his thumb to confirm he was ok and the helicopter flew up. But he had not freed himself from the prusik. Luckily, it tore or else… We saw him hanging from the rope, the helicopter approaching. It was a joy to for our team to see him, as well as the locals, the nosy parkers and the soldiers who are in training at the base. At 6.30 a.m. Tomaž kissed the earth. Actually, he fell on his knees since he could barely walk from exhaustion. They laid him on the sleeping bag, he cried, hugged everyone around him and kept thanking the crew. They immediately changed him out of the wet clothes and footwear – his feet were at most risk. Doctor Anda concluded the beginnings of frostivity but luckily with no permanent damage. All Tomaž wanted to do was drink and then words flew out of his mouth. He decided to remain at base camp to rest, and we are probably leaving for Islamabad tomorrow. We contacted his family, Viki, Stipe and Nataša, and of course our great friend Nazir Sabir. We would like to thank everyone who has helped in any way and a big thank you to the pilots (Col. Ubaib, Maj. Naeem, Col. Rashid Ulah Baig and Maj. Khalid), the Pakistani army, Pakistani and Slovene government for all their support." ________________________________________________ Vente
  6. billcoe

    60 years ago

    Soooo, I guess what See More Jugs is saying is: Women on Top! My thoughts? My thoughts? Condi on top. That's my thoughts, she throws less dishes and has had to struggle more than Hillary. Besides, Hillary would want a woman on top. (not that there is anything wrong with that either) Remember that you heard that here first.
  7. I know I speak for everyone in wishing him well. He's a wicked strong climber and from all accounts a most exellent good dude. ________________________________________ Make that 2 hookers BTW.
  8. Yes I do, I'm a pussy. __________________________________ How about an authentic # 6 Chouinard hex with the origonal 9mm cord, so basically its 33 years old. I bought it new so you know it's been well taken care of, and a Chouinard light D carabiner or 2: which might be only 15 years old. Theres a racoon in the neighborhood thats been crapping on our front porch rug twice a week, (I think he's the cats' boyfriend) I'll toss him in too.
  9. I'll toss in a some used Petzel Spirits, an 11 year old cat and a pair of Lowe Footfangs to sweeten the deal if I have too.
  10. Are you shitting me? You must have stole that from me! We possess the one, the only, "Hank the Dog". He's a 6 year old Jack Russell Terrier who has yet to piss on my climbing gear, but has otherwise blanketed the house with shit, piss and crap. Wanto trade dogs? Thursday we can finish ripping and tearing our muscles, tendons and stuff.
  11. Yeah, thats not funny.... Vente or grande? I'm not talking about the coffee either.
  12. You know it's bad when you have to rub your adams apple to pleasure yourself.
  13. My status tonight: Painful lat which hurts when I move my arm. Fingers won't close from 11 pitches of finger cracks or so....I was out with the younger stronger pups who were trying for mileage and insistant that we just do "One more route" "come on, one more", "OK, Just one more an this is really the last, we mean it"....I overdid it this weekend, I'd like to blame the heat and dehydration, but suspect that age finally caught up with me. Point is, I need a rest day. Or 2. Or 3. Works out pretty good cause I had been invited to someones house for dinner tonight anyway. Have fun.
  14. H.E.L.L.O!!!!!!
  15. Hey Hanger! THANK YEW! Halo muy Bueno Amigo. Are you aware that I'm planning on finding you in the mountains at an unmentionable place and slapping down some routes on Sunday with you? Gent Mendes will be with me if that plan works. If you have not heard of this, consider that sentence a heads up. _________________________________________________ Now, my real point is that Joseph has jumped up and led this charge in a very fine fashion with JO and I in tow. Couple of other future points: we will need to transport dirt and sod up to Tree ledge within a couple of months in an attempt to revive the sucker: it's a nice belay point, nice to have that there for a while. Ideally we'd do that right before the wet season after most of us climbers have retired inside to our hot toddys, warm fires and lying stories of old glories. (Theres some co-ordination and discussion with the rangers before any of this will happen BTW so it's down the road some still.) Early spring (@ March) we need volenteers for Peregrine Monitoring. WE DID NOT LOCATE THE F*ING NEST LAST YEAR. How lame is that? It moved and they left no forwarding address. You can tell from the preys feathers that they were all over that rock though. Next year we need to have an orgie of rock tossing off of grassy ledges of stuff we missed this year. The more the merrier. All are invited. Major more power Kudos to Joseph, the mother Teresa of rock climbers. He's still on this BTW, so offering him some assistance now is recommended. I know he won't be avail Sunday....but a fast PM offering assistance especially if you have weekdays free....not a bad idea.
  16. ps, EVERY DAMN time I read the very first line on the very first post at the start of this thread I almost spew coffee and piss myself. Well done Nolse.
  17. Whew, back to sobriety. Jeff, Paul and John have all answered it for me. Broughtons is a signifigantly better place, I'm sure we would all agree. However, I drive from Beaverton after work cause my asshole boss won't let me off early. In the packed rush hour traffic, throughout the trip and especially at 82nd ave the road usually looks like a constipated Grandmothers bunghole. ie, pretty clogged, a stopped up shitty mess. The last thing I want in that environment, after at least an hour, is to drive another hour, 1/2 hour, or even 5 min on a clogged road when that time could be spent on rock. Sh*t, just ask Jeff how I get when my beer is even 2 min late, I'm still apologising about it years later! I forgot about the whistling part. (Really, I'm so sorry, *cough *not, *cough*, not) Anywho...If I had the time I'd drive right past RB and BB and head directly to Beacon, and not pass go on the way. But I don't - so I stop and climb on the seman encrusted, porn engorged, turbine sounding traffic noise, trash littered, car-breakin, asswipe populated shit hole called Rocky Butte: just cause it's there. God I love that place.
  18. Sport climb? JFHC man, get a grip! See Nolses PDX Alpine anonmys thread and join the cluster F* a forming nomad! I want to hear of your Yosemite trip. Look for me.
  19. True, and it's a mouse holding a sign too, the sign says "Eat me".
  20. Yup, just Like Nolse said. We were heading to Crack Warrior Tue but had a new person show up from out of town who's ability was taken into account so we took an immeditate screechingly hard left turn off the pre-planned track and did something else. (Course it's always a pleasure when they say they only want to climb up to hard 10's) A good time was had by all and I'm still sore (could be an age thing too). Seems like we've rarely repeated a route (although we have), but still haven't made it to CWarrior or Free bird (Wisdom Tooth in the book), 2 of the most primo crack routes there, so they're most likly dirtier than sh*t. I had noticed that the route to the left of CW, (ie if you take smears for fears and head right instead of straight up you wind up at the top of the tree on Crack Warrior with some unusually nice Butte face climbing on the way) had most likely not been climbed since I'd done it while ago, the bolts and chains were way rusty, and it had moss @ 1 inch thick all over it from inactivity. Stay with me I'm drinking wine and heading to the point. So, it's a conundrum which more people won't solve, but those who are there spreading out will. Soooo, don't take this the wrong way, but in the past, if I see a big herd I don't stop. I'd rather rope solo, free solo or boulder, by myself (mood dependant). Last year for instance, I once counted almost 20 cars of a Cascade climbers pub club day all clustered at the upper area (Video/Silver Bullet), and the best routes had nobody, I mean nobody on them. Anywhere. Except me. So if there's a herd you will not see me. Sorry, and it's not personal, I've yet to meet someone on CC.com I didn't like, although the woman who was pissed cause I started yelling for more beer that time at Alameda Brew Pub is lower on my list than everyone else, I mean, WTF WAS the beer? JFHC! You know who you are too, don't make me name names. I'd tie in with any of you anytime. But not 20 of you on the same day. So if you don't see me, it's only cause there are too many of you in a pack. Need a refill...........cya thus or later....... BTW, The large block at the top of Lord of the Jungle or Tiger Pause, the 2 routes 5.9-10.a wherein you hang half way down the cliff loc. @ 60 feet west of video, is loose. You can sit on top of it, but if you push on it: it will fall and if it hits anybody it will kill them. Fuenos knows this block too. We were there @ 2weeks ago. I've been thinking of pushing it off myself with a 5 foot prybar, but don't want to do it without 100 percent assurance of a clear groundfall landing. I'ts too far and forested for a single person to get that assurance. I'm thinking that enlisting helpers with walkie talkies to help spot unwary civilians below is the ticket. Maybe next time it rains? I'll push, you talk? I can point this killer out on Thurs just ask.
  21. Works for me. Anyone care to show up early and mark the territory so to speak? That little area of hell on earth can be a bit crowded. Climb on Garth Climb on Wayne.
  22. Showing up Thurs, need to recover from Tue. thanks
  23. Even better, there was a multiplication factor on the body counts in nam. (Later in the war) As it went up the chain of command, it magically multiplied. Pretty soon, it was apparent to all Americans that we were only a few min. away from winning the war. Just check the counts coming out of command. Typical engagements would be 247 VC, 2 US Troops lost. Until you asked the troops, they'd day "I was there, yeah, VC? What VC? We didn't see the bastards". "There were bullets flying everywhere (mortar rounds too) and they got 2 of us." Morning would come, and troops could see bloodstains off into the bush, no bodies. Start counting.
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