billcoe

Tex, 90 percent of us are glad to hear what you are up too. I sure am. I bet the people who have climbed South Seas on this site are a signifigant minority. You may be it as far as that kind of a count goes: I remember Bigwaller saying that he'd never been higher than 400' off the deck before you guys did Tangerine Trip. Pretty shocking stuff! He must have had a great partner and solid headspace to go on so high and so fast. When's he gonna check in with something amazing and interesting and get dissed by some armchair quarterback anyway? Take care and good luck with school Bill

Hi RBW: You make some good points. My foots been tweaked and I haven't climbed for over a month, but I still have an opinion and you should too. Good to hear from you Rob and the monitoring offer is appreciated. Kev, OK no props for you then, but I'd like to see this be more inclusive and have more people getting involved rather than less. Phone calls are good, lets encourage involvement. While I'm on that subject 1 bone to pick with Crimper. Joseph has asked for involvement throughout this process, thinking on it: Crimper makes it out like its been a 1 man show and no input wanted or needed from others and thats just not true. Maybe you just noticed the door was wide open and walked in, but it's been open for a long time. Joseph has continually asked for help, advice and input. That Joseph has put more effort into it than anyone else is true. I tend to be distracted with my family, my business and lots of other things. It's been that way for me for 20 years at least. I look over at Jim Anglin's free time wistfully and hopefully. (Wheres he been lately, he lives closer to Beacon than any of us and sounds like he was almost doing laps there daily this spring). I guess some of us remember the days that the trail to the park was the RR tracks and the parking is now a boat ramp and they're wasn't anybody else climbing and no rangers. I miss those days some but they're long gone so why try to go back to them. If anyone else remembers climbing on a 120' long goldline or a Willians Harness you'll probably agree with that statement. Times change. The question is how do we move forward? To start with, lets try not be all pissy with each other, and keep this on a positive note. Climbing is what we like, not this kind of crap. We do this crap so that we can climb. Beacon will be a spritual and happy place no matter what we say or do, but let's not be negative with each other. I like the idea of knowing who we really are in real life, not the pretend life of the internet. Many of us know each other already - we can be honest that way to start with. Regards: Bill (Coe) ps - thank JH, forgot about the West face, there's some real fine looking lines over there underneath all that poison oak.

Some points we should also discuss. Climbing on the NW side should be open. Cleaning moss off of routes is a good thing. If there are no birds the rock should not be closed. The East face should be open for climbing. _________________________________________________ I think the tree is a flash point because the park service was invited in on it and there is so little trust amoungst some of us. It is a public park. They are paid to work there (they love that place as much as we do BTW and they do a damn fine job balancing the many many issues out there). Should we as climbers work with them? Joseph believes so and he does. Some of you think not. Perhaps if some of you were in contact with them like he (lesser extant I) am, you would have more trust and less fear about them?

OK, but if people start pulling guns and knives out over there I'm heading back here where it's safe.

Am I gonna have to volenteer to drag a computer over to Jimmy O's house to get him in on this? Also, props to Kevin for working the phones in a frenzy and bringing this issue up to the top of the heap with some previously unheard voices. Bring more. Joseph, Jim and I are old, I does my heart good to see others, who will be here long after I pass, care so much. It gives me hope and happiness.

I'd like to hit this one first if it's OK to show Joseph some support. JH can hit it later. I agree Josephs smart, but really, he brought it here to have that open discussion. That is why it gets publicized here, so that YOU can be involved. I would like to think he'd back off when he is wrong. Now you are here, and you were not here before - and your input DOES matter. So he climbed out there years ago and moved away. Now he's back. I don't see how that is a criticism. JH maintains a trad ethic that is in keeping with the best traditions at Beacon. As far as having the authority over a whole climbing area, he doesn't. That is the State parks staff who labor daily out there. JH just showed up looking to help out. And he has. This one looks to cut to the core of your thoughts Crimper, it should be answered don't you think? Part 1 - its true many climbers at Beacon still do not own computers. As far as writing for his own gratification, no I don't think that is correct at all. JH bills by the hour in his personal life. It is a hell of a lot higher than you might imagine I suspect. He gets no money for doing this, but I believe it is his desire to make a better situation for everybody (all of us) which drives him to do all of this unpaid labor. I do not think JH describing that he cleaned off Flying Dutchman will lead to a line to climb it, but I could be wrong. Well that’s a good thing. I'm amazed how this is spreading myself, yesterday my son overheard a conversation on the Max Train discussing this very thing, and my name was invoked in that conversation 2 or 3 times. Welcome all to the net. That’s a JH question; I suspect I would not give it justice. 6) fyi: the anchors (or parts of them)at the top of dastardly crack, both pitches of blownout, bluebird, pipeline, and blood sweat and smears were all replaced within the last two years without any email commentary and without your help. and you know what? those anchors work, and nobody needed to post about it on the web. 7) You seem to want all the credit for the changes you are creating at Beacon, but are you prepared to accept the blame? I'm not sure about all the credit. JH had a kid ask him once while he was out there (this is after he had replaced about 20 of the anchors himself) if he was helping Kevin replace the anchors. JH said yes and that was all he did say about it. I have presented to JH my fears that opening up these disagreements and issues (like the SE Corner Tree discussion right now) would or could lead to a closure. I still have that fear, and it's a huge fear that some little issue we drag forward could lead to us climbers getting a big raw shaft in a big unlubricated way, but I will admit that when I meet the park people my fear diminishes greatly as my trust increases - they are very open and happy to have this kind of input, and I have seen NO negative hits yet with none on the horizon, and it's been going in an open manner for quite some time. It might be time to examine our former habits and question the existing status quo. Time to let the old fears go and move forward? For next year, if we can confirm that the birds are NOT nesting on Beacon: there may not even be a closure. If they are not at Beacon, then where are they? Somebody needs to step forward and help monitor and figure this out? You in?

I'm embarrased to say that is indeed the case. Also, people who have done great TR, like Mike and Erik just did a rockin FA of 2500' face on Mox peak, they have a long and interesting TR thread going already. Should they also add it here and get to see more pics of chestbeating monkees or spray bottles posted by folks mostly sitting in a cushy armchair appear? Probably better not to do that as nobody critizes you for talking about sheep sex or incest. BTW: Did you note your South Seas and Zodiac (solo?) on this thread yet? If not, there ya are. Nice job Tex.

I'd like to thank both Bryan and Kev for the input: and the well spoken way you said it. Kev: I think it appears that the rock clearing might fall under the catagory of "No good deed shall go unpunished". So you know though, the loose stuff this year was higher up. There had been many close calls of people knocking off rock from the last pitch of SE corner which tended to land right at the base of Warriors. As warriors gets more and more popular, it just needed it. I had heard stories and then one day I was standing down there with Jim O and experinced it myself. Josephs been out there a lot and has similar stories of grassy ledges rockfall this year. Interested in cleaning it off next year? I find it hard not to agree with you all: like to hear Jim O's and Josephs views as well in light of your well presented comments. -bill

______Hey get to work Fuenos:-)___________________________ I'm still at recuperating in awe and wonderment over Ivans Sauran comment. _____________________________ Joseph, nice anchor pic! 1/4" bolts no doubt, ancient sling and no rap ring! Classic!

Exactly my idea. I know a lot of people are headed to bigger projects in the spring or just want to be in good shape. I thought a weekly lap up Hood might in order for some cardio in addition to keeping an eye on the every changing rime conditions on I rock. Anybody keen to the idea should shoot me a pm. I'd like to start next week. _______________________________________________________ Weekly Hood pub club. Nolse, you rock dude! Wow! Awesome idea.

Well if you take even 1 Fuenos, that about 1 more than both of us have taken in total in our entire life: no? Doesn't get better than Monkees Thermos that unless you could find a Wonderwoman one. God you gotta love a strong beautiful woman who walks around in a skimpy costume with a whip and a rope don't ya? PS, you are welcome. Cya: Bill

Naturally? Naturally Frodo. Sorry but somebody has to be the ring bearer. Check this out and see what you think, hard to deny it! Err; treebeard here: Like everybody I too have some ambivalence. Sure, trees die on cliffs all the time without our help. The first climbers who did SE corner saw evidence of that when they encountered a dead snag at the end of the first pitch (snag ledge duh). Maybe it is this trees time. Maybe it's not. Like Joseph said, rain and people have diminshed the soil base over the last 50 years. People in particular. I may be more guilty of this than most. I remember having spent some time in 1973 purposely kicking off crap from this ledge so that innocents climbing directly below would be spared the braining sure to occur should one who was on the ledge have farted too strongly: such was the amount of dirt and rock on the ledge. 32 years of climbers has only compacted the remaing soil, this years below average rainfall contributed to the weakening as well. Kind of amazing that tree is still alive after all this. So the 2 questions are: do you like the tree there? (I do). If affirmative, do you want to do something to amorialate the human presence? (I do). Whatever happens, I would not like to see any bolts put in on this ledge. It never occured to me that others would not feel such as I about the tree. Thank you for sharing that Stewart. Would you be OK with some fertilizer application? Maybe some loose bullshit (not the kind found online) as well? Is it the rock idea you don't like? Kevin, could you share with us why don't you want the slings there? This will take some cognitive processing. Regards: Couchmaster - errr............Treebeard:

____________________________________________ Goddammit Bobby: don't stop now fer C.sakes. I just got the kleenex out. When you hit my age (plus 25 years w/same woman too), you almost wonder if those vague memories of doing it on a road IN Yosemite (pre 25 year relationship person), or on a Beacon Rock ledge, or right there in the middle of the river, well.......you almost wonder if it really happened. All we have is memories and vicarious stories so keep going with it, keep on with the intersting stories please! Don't feel too shy to post some pics and TR's of having her tounge shoved up your ass either, we're all adults here, it's all good - we can take it, bring it all on. Once you start a thread hijack, ya gotta finish er off. On a climbing related note: Although I didn't climb a hell of a lot as usual (I can't top what I use to do so why try). BUT, climbed a few times with Joseph as a new partner. Had a great trip to Yos early in the year (no Joseph) It was nice. Last climb before leaving the valley was a memorable running up Old favorite Serenity Crack-Sons of Yesterday as a party of 3 with an old workout partner of 30-32 years ago and another great guy Gent Mendes) and out running a couple of young pups (party of 2, they geared up and were on basically the ass of our 3rd climber as he left the ground: they hit like P2 belay as we hit like P7) was off the hook sweet to climb effeciently and also not feel crowded and cramped. Climbing a bit more extensivly with Ujahn on some other stuff was awesome too. His first vally trip so we did some of the classics (Like Snake Dike, Harry Daley, Bishops, Sherries Crack, Looked at the Tube but despite having done it before had shrinkage this time, Super Slide blah blah). Spent a day climbing with old timer Dave Hardin who at this point has documented that he's climbed AT LEAST ONCE (and sometimes many many times) like 570 of the valleys 700 some odd routes, and got to see and sleep at old friend Victors house (lives right outside of Yos and works in the park). No huge chest beatings - but no complaints either for me. Had the same amazing feeling as 2 old partners and I roofed one of their garages this year too. It was almost like poetry as we all worked as one, doing instictivly what 3 people who know what they should be doing - just quietly do it in an incredably effecient manner. Sweet.

Thats a great idea, too bad there isn't some old retired geezer out and about with the time on his hands to jump into that kind of project. He'd have to be literate, and have a solid knowledge of various area, and have the time to contact other people so as to get it right. Hmmm, I can't think of anybody. anyone? .... anyone?

John, a heads up for no charge, if we are thinking of the same area: just so you know, the things that look like hundreds of little sticks growing out of the wall right there is Poison Oak. I sprayed it this summer and killed @ 90 percent of it, but between the leaf drop due to cold and the spraying, you can't tell it's poison oak. If you can not touch any of it with bare hands you will be better off. And even then....chop it with tools, keep the face shields down and your fingers crossed. Good luck. No charge for the advice. Wasps nest: try stomping on it with the foot fangs on! Or alternatively - cans of raid are couple of bucks:-) regards; bill

Not enough rain or slugs John. I do not believe the pics to be authentic. Nicely done though!

- Pogo the clown for supreme court?

Fresh corn on the cob. Shrimp salad. Tomatoes from the garden. Green Beans. ____________________________________________ Thats what Jasmine put together. Then I drove to the store and got 2 pints of Haagen Daz, 1 of Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough and Mint Chip....you want to hear about all that part of it, how I wasn't in a sharing mood and all?

What I heard was a Paul Revere kind of yell, "wake up you bitches!, wake up you bitches!" followed by: "Nevermind."

Great stuff Mike!

redfir, you have recieved some great recommendations here, good advice all of it. No one mentioned Royal Arches or Super Slide (Super Slab), but they are both good as well.

It's been almost 3 years to the day that Gorans accident occured. Just remembering.

Hmmm, nice call: there might be a couple of ways to find out.......

opps - sorry. I was looking at only 1 pic but seeing double after trying that idea to smoke some first. Nevermind about all that previous rock gibberish. well spoken gentlemen, well done! Carry on.

Anyone else note that the rocks are identical? This could have been photoshopped by those same dudes who photoshopped the moon landing on a backstage lot in Hollywood ?