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billcoe

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Everything posted by billcoe

  1. I'd read that, but thought it lacked substance without a few pictures..... Still, luck and plug: American spirit shine through. 70 hours in the cold.
  2. Found here BOOKMARK this link As the election progresses, slurs, lies and misrepresentation will be flying. Join me in disliking both of them (this may change) by reading this site where facts are tried to be fairly presented.
  3. billcoe

    Iraq

    Which one are you? Jack or Shit? From your response, I think I can guess this one without help.
  4. I'm getting hot just thinking of fondling that one:-0 Yarrr (pirate talk) this was a crack FA, no bolts, some semi-loose rocks still there with sharp edges to spice it up. No hangs , no falls.....no brains either:-) Those assholes were in Yosemite all week without me! I'm probably gonna hear about some 5 star 1000 foot routes in perfect weather while I was dogging a dirty, filty, loose, wet, unascetic, 20' piece of choss with Ivan and Jim back here when they get back. It puzzles my wife why I don't go. Andrew, Haydar and those guys are heading to T-meadows soon, and I could have gone to the valley with them 2 months ago ....same statement applies I suppose. I know the answer but cannot share.
  5. Sick is the word bro! This is one of those supersecret spots for now. I have some brand new 9/16 tied supertape slings I'm a gonna wrap around the nubbins, clip and pray. So the only bolts will be on top, at least in my view, but negotiations are underway on this point yet. This side should go fine, it starts a bit steep and as the elevation increases gets what appears to be remarkably easy. The underlying ash, however, is not as consolidated or as strong as most of us are used too...which explains the interesting weathering patterns and why this area is not a climbing destination. In this case I'll be praying for the belayer and perhaps merging the enterprise with some helmet testing for that same unlucky soul. The backside, in addition to being dead vertical, unfortunately looks like the horrendous "before" picture on a Moss-B-Gone commercial. But this is OW's TR, I don't mean to hijack it. Sowwwwwry!
  6. Well I can't help myself, perhaps it's true that I am the "Mother Teresa" of gear whores! (*cough*self-centered bullshit* cough*) Me too! Hey, show up and climb Dave, I get big benefits when people buy this shit and haul it out and I get to use it. Thursday night after work laps Ujahn showed up with that brand new never used 70Meter Beal deal rope and we unclipped the straps to use it.....ahhhh, so sweet, a new young rope, ahhhhh. Crackman was there with what must be an antique hardened steel cord he climbs on: I think I'd even PMed him that Beal deal to him but he didn't bite on it. Pfft, some people. Maybe I'm not any better. At the last Rocky Butte Access Fund cleanup last year, Kelly Rice asked if anyone wanted her old 6 year old rope which she thought should be retired from climbing. The tappet bros pushed me forward and volunteered me as a recipient so I took the thing to use as a handline. Then later, before the snow had melted at that area to be used as a handline: I grabbed Kellies retired rope and fixed it for cleaning on a new route at a lower elevation cliff. Figured I wouldn't want to toss a rock onto one of my 4 brand new ropes I haul this old thing out. Rapped down and tossed of some sizable boulders. At the base looking up, no rope around anywhere except the retired one, and thinking that it was time to climb, we pulled that sucker and I led it. Turns out being a 10b/10c crack which we named "Lizard Locks" for the bomber finger locks and the Northern Alligator Lizard which came out to observe the climb progress from like 3 feet away from the crack! The rope must have been incentive not to have fallen on it. Thanks Kellie!
  7. I was going to ask about this as well. Thanks Doug. The backside of this formation is 500' dead vertical and a breathtaking testicular shrinking experience. I am feeling tense, sweating palms, breath catching heart palpitations as I gaze longingly in fear at it's nubbing popping potential and know that I must, no matter what internal conflicts arise, I must ascend and mount her. Oh yes: she will be mine. And Dwayner can go to hell, for she will lovingly caress and enjoy the warm embrace of my firm hard steel as I slip it slowly and steadily into the hole while warm sticky fluid gushes out as I plunge to the final resolution and we merge into oneness...... Oh yes..... she will be mine!
  8. billcoe

    Gas-out June 29th

    !
  9. Then it must be true, "Only the Good Die Young?" 71? Too bad.
  10. I think it's steeper and scarier than Ivans pics show, but my memory generally sucks real bad. Tim gets on steep stuff all the time, so maybe it made no impression on him. Check out the pic of Ivan smoking and drinking wine, is that a big fluffy pillow at his feet? Looks like a pretty cush camp:-)
  11. Super sweet writing and TR Ivan! Good to see a good time was had by all (both of you!). Last weekend Ujahn and a couple of his other buds went for Hood. Summitted fine along with hundreds of others evidently, but they were sitting decramponing at Hogsback when some unroped fella fell from the top and slid head first sans helmet @ 700' right INTO the fumerole as they gaped, gasped and shit! Dude got lucky and not only lived but walked off, very shaken, bruised and scraped from a few rocks in the fumerole area. He can thank his lucky stars he didn't plunge sooner in the day when the snow was hard and fast, as the mid-day sun had warmed and softened the snow considerable apparently: slowing his plunge and saving his life. You certainly avoided that zoo this weekend for sure. Nice.
  12. Here's two more: slightly lighter, and more scratch. GearExpress Link The ad says: "Edelweiss Flashlight 10mm x 60M Dynamic Rope - Edelweiss has introduced a perfect new rope for sport/trad climbers. The Edelweiss Flashlight tips the scale at only 64 grams/M, looks great and has a great hand. * Specs:Diameter: 10mm * Falls: 6 * Imapct Force 9.25kN * Static Elongation: 6.2% * Sheath Slippage: 0mm * Color: Olive and Gold" __________________________________________________________ Bentgate has the Edelweiss performance on sale for the same price. Ad says "Performance 9.2mm 60M Dry Rope by Edelweiss When every ounce or the slightest bit of rope drag can mean the difference between success and failure on your latest project, the Performance can help. The Performance is an ultra-lightweight single rope designed for those who want to take their climbing to the next level. Utilizing the unique Edelweiss Perdur treatment, the PErformance will outlast many competitor's 10.5 mm ropes. • Specs:Falls: >5 • Impact Force: 8.2 kN • Weight: 53 grams/M • Elongation: 8.0% • Dynamic Elongation: 37% • Sheath Slippage: 0 • Colors may Vary" 9.2mil X 60M Performance Rope link to Bentgate.
  13. Ally 10.3 x 60M Climbing Rope by Edelweiss Same rope at Bentgate now ! $ 109.96 Link, and Free Shipping as well. The new Edelweiss Ally offers excellent performance, good looks, and quality Edelweiss construction. UIAA Certified • Weight per metter 70 g • Impact force 9 kN • Number of UIAA Falls Laboratory 7 • Static elongation 6.4 %
  14. billcoe

    Gas-out June 29th

    __________________________________________________________________ HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA AH............ Thanks for that. Say, please tell me you're not voting.... are you? Oh Oh Oh, BTW, I almost forgot: have a bridge I'll sell ya at a very reasonable price. I'll even toss in some genuine diamonds that I just got direct from my Nigerian connection too. Awesome deal. Really.
  15. What did the PT say Rob?
  16. *Cough *Gearwhore* Cough* You must have a sick rack!
  17. Dohh! I'll keep my eyes open!
  18. Link Backbacks, with a few exceptions here and there, are made for hiking and Rock climbers adapt, accept and suffer with them: and then just drag them out for Rock Climbing. Cilogear is taking the old Ray Olsen design which has been bandied, massaged and discussed on Supertopo and is reviving and renewing it for us. I suspect that even if Graham totally fuc*ks it up (very doubtful), it will be a better pack than most of the trash thats out there for Rock Climbers right now. Cilogears Alpine packs are renown in our little clik in the alpine world, now Cilogear is targeting the rock climbing world. I'm going to be getting a prototype soon, I need some of you stout smart dudes to jump on this with me, lets stuff it full of shit, haul it out, haul it up, toss it off. Fold Spindle and mutalate it and give Graham some feedback to improve it. Specifically, engineering types like John and smart dudes like Joseph and Bryan. Anyone else want to borrow this when it gets in and load it down like an old whore with pee-stained mattress strapped to her back and haul it out to try it out (you there Ivan?) give me a jingle and I'll fix you up for a go or 2 as long as you give honest feedback. I'll let you know when it gets here, or you'll hear me yodeling out in the woods with joy if it's on my back, but I'll let you know, because feedback is needed.
  19. sorry, bill. If I didn't, someone else would have. oh oh! Ha ha! Nice one Rob! BTW, this is why I'm on the Rudy Rampage now and gonna lose 20 lbs. Thats the other thread with the winning lottery numbers on the header 148 142 138 133 or something like that. (opps, I'm backsliding as I type, got a glass of Warren Harding memorial juice right here:-) OK, maybe one more glass of juice.....just 1!
  20. billcoe

    Buy this now

    Nice find! This is obviously the Gov't model #2 phillips bit Mark. The civi model is .39/ea. Says: "COOPER TOOLS APEX 492-A-I 1/4" DRIVE PHILLIPS HEX POWER BITS #2 Price: $159,999.00
  21. 167 ....but a "Manssiere" (technical term = Gynecomastia vest) keeps the manboobs fairly well hidden, if it's a dark color I mean. the other day the wife comes up as I'm shaving in the am with my shirt off and was squeezing my arms, laughing and saying in a mock sad voice, "what happened here?, where did the hardness go, they're like all flabby now, Biiilllllly, are you missing some muscle?" "What happened to my man?" sigh.......I want to be Wayne, he's like 7 lbs less and 12 inches taller.
  22. Dude, I'm at work. Fridays are my busiest day and I have to be there unless I make arrangements etc etc. Missed this till right now:-( Sowwwry! BTW, the boyz and I did yer route "Corona Glass Houses" last night and Troy said "Oh, THATS EASY!" Kids these dayz. Gesssh. Got anything harder for the lad?
  23. Hey, aren't you suppose to be working? I hope so Graham, and maybe it's like Scott says: but for Israel, the stakes are too high to let it ride. Before most widescale wars there is always a diplomatic offensive staking out the positions, that is what we are seeing here, I think, and not 2 wussies in a bar. I hope and wish I'm wrong and civilized and calmer heads prevail. As far as the $7 a gallon gas goes, perhaps not as the admin has been working with the Saudis and everyone with a straw in the ground to increase the amount of petroleum available....one can see a link between these events if one was of a suspicious mind. Not me of course, however, these events have been war gamed for sometime, and this is one of the big factors which has undoubtedly been discussed in advanced.
  24. The "stinking corpse" finally responds: " Shaul Mofaz, a former Israeli defense minister who is now a deputy prime minister, warned in a recent interview with the Israeli newspaper Yediot Aharonot that Israel might have no choice but to attack. "If Iran continues with its program for developing nuclear weapons, we will attack," Mofaz said in the interview published on June 6, the day after the unpublicized exercise ended. "Attacking Iran, in order to stop its nuclear plans, will be unavoidable." Iran is also taking steps to better defend its nuclear facilities. Two sets of advance Russian-made radar systems were recently delivered to Iran. The radar will enhance Iran's ability to detect planes flying at low altitude." "Mike McConnell, the director of national intelligence, said in February that Iran was close to acquiring Russian-produced SA-20 surface-to-air missiles. American military officials said that the deployment of such systems would hamper Israel's attack planning, putting pressure on Israel to act before the missiles are fielded." That may put pressure on my Oct date prediction. Note that Israel had recently entered into secret diplomatic discussions with their implacable enemy Syria...hmmmm, it appears to me that they are trying to negotiate a quiet settlement on that front so that an attack on Iran will not spread to other quarters. Full text link
  25. Damn, maybe I do need more spraying, less climbing! Thanks Dave!
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