billcoe

Choss R Us. What Bryan says is true but there are solid sections. Real real solid. But there's some real real loose sections too:-) P2 of Jimmies Favorite. I bet you'd like this route Bryan until it heads into the gaping maw, it's pretty sweet crimping on a buttress with solid bolts. You could do a real hard version which went straight up where I'm going left. The rock is perfect up there. I think this may be Shaun on Conga Line Kyle and Shaun after a Conga Line lap Jeff Thomas on the Conga cut off, you can see how solid it is right here. Theres probably 10 real fun bolted routes waiting to be put up there on the lower apron below that top picture.

Looks like a "Supersweet©" (LOL) collection of routes. Thanks for putting it out there.

Yup! ....although point in fact I did drop him off at Beacon after we were done....

Nice call Tiimtraveler. However, Jim has forsaken the Beaconwand for Washingtons newest climbing area. Photographic bolt clipping proof. Jimmy on Jimmies Favorite P1 at Jimmies yesterday. LOL!

Looks like crowds wouldn't slow you down either..... ..........does it come with a hockey mask?

Went up Saturday and free soloed up then bolted the slab approach (pitch one) of Jimmies Favorite. Now instead of a tense X rated but easier climb, its a fun climb that just dances since you don't feel like if you make a mistake you die. Anyone wants to do it in the original style can not clip the bolts. There is a great deal of sweet looking routes off to the right of that which would be cleaned and done. Maybe 10 new routes. And that is just the easy slab at the start, there is some longer solid looking lines there which have not seen a climbing boot footprint yet. Sunday Jim Opdycke and I went up again, here's a photo of Jim leading it, and as he came down he cleaned it off. Looks a lot better. Anyone interested in an update, talk to Jim. He went form being sour to being stoked about the potential. Looks way different after this shot was taken.

Not sure of the question. Congrats on still being alive though! Woot!

This thread needs a gratuitous wonder dawg picture. The specific ergonomic issue we as climbers see which a construction dude rarely cares about is the length as measured form the trigger to the business end of the drill. In this case I was drilling anchors from a comfortable ledge and did not care that I had a 10" bit as I was drilling a 7" hole. From this view: that length matters: (PS, the Baby Dawg is the small one, the pics are of the Lil Dawg - which isn't little, and is the larger of the 2 drills and weights just under 10 lbs.)

I have been watching the thread to see what folks were saying. I was waiting for a side by side, but maybe it's time to pitch a few things out. 1st, lets use model numbers. I think that the Makita we are discussing is Model: BHR202 ? If that's correct, maybe it's not something you will want Rudy. Ergonomically, the 2 things we as climbers need is compact design and light weight. Compact as I'm using the term being shorter: the distance between the drill bit and the trigger. Think of a hand drill you checked a 12" bit in, vs the same hand drill you chuck a 6" bit in. The 12" long bit will throw you off balance. Even rappel bolting with a power rotohammer this can be an issue if you don't situate your body right or slightly overshoot the mark. So for your boy Rudy, it will be something to consider. So a measurement of the Makita from the trigger to the end sans bit would help this discourse. But here's the overall length to start with. Makita: 14 1/8 Bosch: 11536C-1 or 2 = 12 1/4 Bosch for the win. Next, as far as light weight goes. A bit surprising to me that the 18V bhr202 is going at 7.7lbs...they say. http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?ID=26664 Like Slabhappy, I own the Bosch 11536c (code named baby Dawg for Raindawg). It comes in at 6lbs partially via a smaller battery and clocks in at 6.25 lbs before I peel off the side handle. http://www.cpotools.com/bosch-11536c-2-36v-cordless-lithium-ion-compact-sds-plus-rotary-hammer/bshn11536c-2,default,pd.html?start=1&cgid=bosch-cordless-rotary-and-demolition-hammers . I have 3 batteries total as I got 2 of the larger ones with the larger drill (Bosch #11536VSR which I've code named Lil Dawg after you know who shall not be named). I often take just the small battery with the small drill and find it works plenty fine. I've also pulled off the side handle to lighten it, finding that it never binds and there is no need for it. The larger Bosch I've kept it on, as it often is drilling deeper and bigger holes and want to avoid binding the bit. Makita: 7.7 lbs Bosch : 6.25 (with Litheon™ 36V SlimPack Batteries) Bosch 11536C for the win again. Like to see head to head drilling. However, what I have seen in others testing is that the Bosch products are faster than anyone elses stuff. Not just anyone's, but everyone's. The sole exclusion is a single Supertopo thread where the guy was saying that the Makita was drilling into his local rock and the Bosch would not.

Temps will be perfect this weekend.

I think I've done that line. Squamish ...? May have been wearing the EBs, it was nuts for me too. Good times. Schweet photo. If it's 5 min from your house you don't need to come to Beacon rock to get yer stoke on.

Oh, and here is a photo of Ujahn following me on Lost Warriors, which someone...won't say who....they did the FA though I will add....really needs to work on cleaning better. Got to spend the weekend with Ujahn and his wife at the coast and we got some bouldering (and Kayaking) in while the wives watched down by Oceansides. Good times. CAMERA TILT, CAMERA TILT!!!!! One handed snapshot. Sorry. And now, I will go home and drink some wine. Feel free to join me counselor, your company is always warm and welcome.

This stuff is in an endless loop that essentially has not changed for 7 years. If you want to see someones position, all a person has to to is just do a search and there are 20 posts identical to the last one which all state the persons same thing but have different dates. All that is left is personal attacks and acrimony. Young Adam (and LCK) are still taking a shot being involved and trying to achieve something, feel free to help him/them, but posting here won't do anything positive IMO. So if anyone is interested best to contact him directly. I'll take a shot at this one too: you own the site and get sick and tired of real climbers bitching to you via PMs about the various slander and antagonistic BS that is playing out in a nightmarish climbing version of ground hog day by various assholes (Jons view) on the Beacon forum. Hope that clarifies Jons position. He may wish to fine tune it, but I suspect I am guessing the basics. Like hell, take it like a man, full on in the beacon forum. LOL! You're welcome Geoff.

Outted in last guidebook book. 5 miles north of Beacon Rock. Needs more routes. Get sum. http://mountainproject.com/v/jimmies-twilight-zone/107747839

Great stuff! Thanks for that TR. More fantastic photos here http://archive.mikeyschaeferphotography.com/ for anyone stuck at work needing to perv on some pure granitic goodness.

The classics. [video:youtube] and [video:youtube]

From Rockclimbing.com hot deals. Cavet, I've never heard of Lecordee, so do your due diligence. Tenon ropes are good, especially for $84 WOOT!.

I see that the pants sold out for now. Congrats. How's this for a headline? [font:Arial Black]ALL PANTS HALF OFF!!!![/font] and a picture similar to this except with NW Alpine pants in the photo. jus trying to help:-) Let us know when the pants get back in stock. Thanks

T-EEEE-SHIRTS, SOBO T-EE SHIRTS, GET YER SOBO TEE SHIRTS RIGHT HERE....

Is this cause you live in SLC and talk to the Black Diamond folks? LOL

Hola Mike: My thoughts/experience incomplete info to add to the knowledge base for what it's worth. I have a Beal 9.1 Joker (that's the size we are discussing?) that looks like it will last longer than I want to lead on it. Appears to have next to zero wear after 4 years or so (bought it Jan 20th 2007). I've never had a skinny Mammut but have had good wear on their other sized ropes over many years so I can't compare Mammutt to Beal directly. HOWEVER, the caveat is that I don't record pitches on ropes and have a lot of other ropes that I rotate. Also, I don't dog routes with the Joker. It's seen a few falls for sure but don't know how many as I don't keep track of small falls like when you're clipping bolts. Of all my ropes, the 9.1 is my favorite and the most used as it's the lightest fullsized #1 rope (single rope) I own and so I tend to drag it on long adventures. It gets pressed into high mileage free climbing kind of trips, Red Rocks and Yosemite. Did 25 pitches 2nd day we were in Yos with it last May. That kind of thing, I take this rope. So it's gotten a shit load of pitches in. Unfortunately, it's time to retire it from lead climbing soon based on age alone, and the price has gone up. I bought a Petzl skinny on sale for a crazy $83 at REI but before I opened it I climbed on my buddies and the handling sucks (in comparison to the Joker IMO). As does Petzl and their ropes. (google failures on red Petzl Zephyr ropes for instance) I love Beal. Good products, good people. Unfortunately, I bought the sale rope for like $109 (back when it was new and hot and rarely went on sale), and they (online sale store) got to pick the color. Black. ...Ever see a middle mark on a black rope? Me either. I know I could do the dental floss whip stitch but am too lazy:-) so, that's didn't actually answer the first part of your question..... Maybe you can direct this thread and the 2nd part of your question to Beal to get a clearer answer on the cut/abrasion resistance. Most likely none of us will know that. I had some solid info exchanged back when with them on discussing middle marks. We'd all get the info then, I'd like to know the answer and suspect most of us would.

How about you rub some rock salt in there while your at it. Hooo man, you call that shit a trip report? I was looking to see that you guys had sent and not gotten sent! ps, I just leave the tree sap on the rope. It seems to wear off on it's own fast enough.

Cinderella part 2 times 2! Good luck on the search.

Part of the process is weeding out folks who burn you. Eventually, what's left are the jewels who climb hard, have fun, give stoke and are always there for you.... PS, great pictures on your web site! This looks crazy.......like maybe soon to be crazy painful if you don't stick the landing:-) picture very very nice, but really really too big for my little screen:-) , click the link, overhanging ice, no pro picture. Woot! great shot!