billcoe

I forget a lot of things but I suspect this was unforgettable! Stylin with just an old school bowline on a coil and not much else LINK. PS, YOUR 6 POINTS UP THERE ARE SPOT ON THE MONEY!

Wow! Way to get after it!!!! Thanks for sharing it. How much elevation do you think that was....looks like a high mileage day for sure, superman would have approved:-)

Man, I'm so sore from yesterdays little romp (it was suppose to have been @93 and set a record) that this am I went to roll over in my sleep and the muscle soreness woke me up! Didn't even finish the pitch.

THAT IS AWESOME!!!! LOL! (embarrassed to say I didn't even think of it!) Mark, If I had even a single picture of those days it would be yours. At one time I had a pic of my brother on some steep near vertical water ice that forms on Mt Emily on occasion...styling with 10 point crampons, wool shirt and pants with a single ice axe, but don't even know where that is. Good luck!

Thanks for sayin it Marc. Regards

OK OK OK, please tell me you have some shots of this BITD stuff! I never use to carry a camera preferring to live in the now, tell me you felt otherwise!! I want to see EB's and swami pictures....or Willans Harness....or whatever was typical climbing stuff dejour then. ps, patagucci book reference, is that Steve House?

Hah! Just last night my wife of 29 years was saying that I was way out of shape. I knew that saying "hey I'm still cruising 5.10" was meaningless so I just used the classic Scott Peterson line as she was doing that eyebrow arch thing and giving tubby hubby the stink eye: "Round is a shape too honey". LOL

Did anyone reading this try the internet rehab for chondromalacia patella ? "The primary goal for treatment and rehabilitation of chondromalacia patella is to create a straighter pathway for the patella to follow during quadriceps contraction. Initial pain management involves avoiding motions which irritate the kneecap. Icing and anti-inflammatory medications (for examples, ibuprofen [Advil/Motrin] or naproxen [Aleve]) can also be helpful. Selective strengthening of the inner portion of the quadriceps muscle will help normalize the tracking of the patella. Cardiovascular conditioning can be maintained by stationary bicycling (low resistance but high rpms), pool running, or swimming (flutter kick). Reviewing any changes in training prior to chondromalacia patella pain, as well as examining running shoes for proper biomechanical fit are critical to avoid repeating the painful cycle. Generally, full squat exercises with weights are avoided. Occasionally, bracing with patellar centering devices are required. Stretching and strengthening the quadriceps and hamstring muscle groups is critical for an effective and lasting rehabilitation of chondromalacia patella. "Quad sets" are the foundation of such a program. Quad sets are done by contraction the thigh muscles while the legs are straight and holding the contraction for a count of 10. Sets of 10 contractions are done between 15-20 times per day."

Well, I can say I'm amazed...but realistically despite being way old, over the hill and decrepit I totally understand as last weekend I hung out on this side of the hill and got rained on 2 days in a row. Went exploring Saturday since it was so wet, the Granite on this side of the crest near PDX was so damn wet you couldn't even see it from the road. Bet the granite over there was dry. I think I did that route you are calling "Free Ride to Heaven (4 pitches, 5.6)", in 1976 with a handful of wired nuts and hexes with the late Ken Cronk and Richard Canelaria. I mostly remember it cause there was a huge mass of glacial ice 7/8 of the way up blocking the route and we didn't have crap for tools, nor did I think having the ice break clean off and falling on us was a good idea as the day was way warm. I basically got the quiet peer pressure thing that got me going up it. But the ice hung like the sword of Damocles the entire way, threatening our lives if it collapsed off. There was an easy traverse off into the trees (5.6?) where the ice blocked all passage as it turned out. Then later these guys, mostly Ken I guess, all teased me publicly (in a friendly way) for being such a pussy...so I got some feedback from some other bros about this climb throughout the year which made it more memorable than about everything else we were climbing on all the time. We thought we were the first there till my brother explained that about everything up that way had already been climbed years before. Bad memory but I think maybe Dave Jensen (Jensens ridge) or Mead Hargis (Yos ranger) did this one, like a lot of the cliffs over there. Some good stuff over that way, but you have to hunt for it or hike to it. The Matterhorn for instance, the longest, biggest baddest assed rock climb in Oregon, has gone how many years without a 2nd ascent? 36 years....Dave Jensen was a Mensch for sure. A badassed Super Ubermensch. Found and climbed some bits of sweet sweet Elkhorn granite last year here and there. My Manboob pose.

If you dislike the fees, you might get on this email list. Text of this idea here: http://www.westernslopenofee.org/ [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oElh2BR3jfQ [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0IW_iwPuhs

Text of this idea here: http://www.westernslopenofee.org/ [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oElh2BR3jfQ [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0IW_iwPuhs

"Church of the Warren Harding" When you, as a Hardist, greet other church members it goes like this: "Greeter: Get Hard! Responder: That’s what she said!"

I actually think that more accurately I'm just an asshole, which give's me blanket coverage. LOL! Yup. If a racist means that you married outside your race, then I am guilty. It was actually her parents who first clued me in on this as it turns out she was marrying outside of her race as well - but that's another story.... I wonder if Acorn is hiring now? Oh, looked it up and they are! http://www.breitbart.com/article.php?id=D9AKORB81&show_article=1 "BALTIMORE (AP) - The group ACORN has fired two employees who were seen on hidden-camera video giving tax advice to a man posing as a pimp and a woman who pretended to be a prostitute. Fox News Channel broadcast excerpts from the video Thursday. On the video, a man and woman visiting ACORN's Baltimore office asked about buying a house and how to account on tax forms for the woman's income. An ACORN employee advised the woman to list her occupation as "performance artist." The pair also claimed they planned to employ teenage girls from central America as prostitutes, and an ACORN employee suggested that up to three of the girls could be claimed as dependents, according to transcripts of the video posted online by conservative activist James O'Keefe. O'Keefe told Fox he posed as the pimp and that he was shocked by the ACORN employees' helpfulness. In a statement, ACORN Maryland board member Margaret Williams said the video was an attempt to smear ACORN, and that undercover teams attempted similar setups in at least three other ACORN offices. Williams said no tax returns were filed and no assistance was provided. ACORN—which stands for the Association of Community Organizations for Reform Now—advocates for poor people. It conducted a massive voter registration effort last year and became a target of conservatives when some employees were accused of submitting false registration forms with names such as "Mickey Mouse." ACORN has said only a handful of employees submitted false registration forms and did so in a bid to boost their pay. "

"anything the Gobment doesn't make money on is against the law" LOL!!!!!

Don't "just do it", bad advice.

I think Jim feels comfortable with less than perfection and sees the good in this as outweighing the bad as this is an opportunity to teach and expand folks worldview as it relates to climbing, ie, that things are less than perfect and you need to keep your head up and pay attention: while JH is seeing it as easy to fix and make it to near perfect and it is less than marginally suitable in it's present condition. They probably are both right, but I give Jim the slight nod on it, if someone raps off the end of their rope and their butt slams down 10 feet to the ground, they will have learned a valuable lesson cheaply about paying attention and tying knots in the ends of ropes. One they can transfer to a 1000' high cliff and have a better chance of surviving that.

They'll upgrade you to journeyman after you can do a 5.10 first ascent naked in the winter....wait.....you did that last year already. Hey, back to N00b status anyway for the interruption N00b, didn't you see that we're argueing bolts now....sheeese! LOL Congrats on your new quickdraw BTW.

Nice find! For posterity: "Tightrope artist sets record on Germany's highest mountain Swiss tightrope walker Freddy Nock balances on the 995-meter-long cable of the cable railway on top of the Zugspitz mountain, Germany's highest peak, Aug. 30, 2009 At least the view up there was nice Swiss daredevil Freddy Nock has set a record for the world's highest tightrope feat - atop Germany's tallest mountain, the Zugspitze. With no nets or safety ropes, the stunt was dangerous but for a good cause. Professional tightrope artist Freddy Nock on Sunday walked across 995 meters (3,264 feet) of cable, which is otherwise used to pull the aerial tram up the Zugspitze mountain, located in southern Germany near the Austrian border. "I made it, I'm happy, wow!" said the 44-year-old after it was all over. Nock's challenge was not just horizontal, but vertical as well. With the cable strung at a 56 percent incline, he increased his altitude by 348 meters over the 50-minute journey. His final destination at the mountain tram station was located at an altitude of 2,943 meters, setting a world record for the highest tightrope walk. Swiss tightrope walker Freddy Nock balances on the 995-meter-long cable of the cable railway on top of the Zugspitz mountain, Germany's highest peak, Aug. 30, 2009Bildunterschrift: Großansicht des Bildes mit der Bildunterschrift: Nock's dangerous feat was for a good cause During the walk, Nock was suspended at up to 130 meters above ground. As he used no safety gear, the endeavor could have ended quite differently for Nock. Some 1,800 spectators turned out to watch the tightrope act - Nock's second, after a first attempt on Saturday was interrupted due to bad weather conditions. Through the event, over 13,000 euros in donations were raised for the charity "Menschen fuer Menschen," which runs rural development projects in Ethiopia. " hmmm, "Menschen fuer Menschen," sounds suspiciously like "Men on Men".

LOL! Not all of us! http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/901756/BOOOYAAAAA#Post901756

Can we get Larry Craig (bathroom stall with a dude bust) and him to give exit speeches to the little childrens first? I mean, they are after all, republicans and not those filthy Democrats trying to spread horrible and corrupting propaganda like the President was doing yesterday with all that talk of hard work and personal responsibility and all.

Maybe this damn draw moved over from Monkey Face. I think they are free-range running all over willy-nilly loose over that way. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/904724/LOST_17quickdraws_on_the_bolte#Post904724 I remember now, can I guess can I guess do I get it if I guess right? !!! Wait, I only need "TRAD" draws. They pair nicely with my "TRAD" chalkbag, "TRAD" harness and "TRAD" shoes. _________________________________________________________________ JH, probably just need to leave a longer quickdraw then....Adam has one you can borrow. Beacon has plenty of other new convenience raps, this rappel needs ones attention, just like the real world. If it's an emergency, clip a bolt 3/4 of the way down, back it up with a piece of gear and do a 2nd rap. That no one has been injured in the last 10 years suggests that it is not blatantly (or sneakily) dangerous, but merely an inconvenience. When ropes were 50 meters, you needed 2 to get down. 2 are still needed but the 60 gets you closer to the ground so folks shortcut. If the rap bolts were lowered from where they are, they would most likely be right on the 1st pitch route with folks using them for a belay and endangering themselves with potential rope cutting in a fall or they would just be in the way. Besides, they've been there long enough that its a tradition. _______________________________________________________________

Thanks for sharing this Bob. Nice looking van. I had no idea they were bringing this over to this side of the pond, you see similar stuff all over Europe. The Sprinter Vans are getting mid 20s highway mileage as well, but are very costly at like @40,000 base. Any idea what these will be going for?

Ahhh, but it can be a clean and honest transaction wherein all parties are satisfied!

Wise words indeed....in your mind please replace the word "Suck" with "anally probed by Aliens sans lubrication" then and whenever it is used inappropriately in the future. As long as we are on this correct use of wordage thing: I propose that in the future the word "Whore" be used as a good or positive descriptor for women, and not as a bad or negative reference to women as it traditionally has been used from now on.

Ditto on the A+ Ivan. If the "computer" is done tabulating and averaging it, what did the kids rate the effectiveness of the speech?