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billcoe

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Everything posted by billcoe

  1. Depends on the definition of "could". I wish I "could" always fire Dods and Blood Sweat and Smears. However, last year, (year b4?) I fell and hung for the first time in my life on Blownout, due to being old and weak, right at the top going direct....so I'd like to be able to always be able to climb Dods, cause then I could also always get up Blownout and Young Warriors in good style......
  2. billcoe

    The end is near

    The end in 1967 - ... [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QHFK1yKfiGo
  3. billcoe

    Greek Style

    This is sticking it to the man? Fighting "FOR" himself, and not "AGAINST" himself? Well, I hope those nasty shopkeepers learned their lesson.
  4. Rahm Emmanuels' cue to get naked and start snapping towels at bare asses in the shower room again?
  5. Good times dudes: here's a name "PRIME rime" rhymes. That would be a nice name for a route sometime too....hmmmm, I think I did a FA of one of the old Palmer chairlifts when it was rimed over 25 years ago, maybe? ......hmmm, but those chairlifts are wilderness now it looks like, maybe I should check with the Forest Service to see if I'd need a permit for the next ascent.
  6. If anyone didn't notice the very end of it, it was actually a press release written by the Attorneys representing the fella suing Rumsfeld. I missed copying that part. My bad. Said "Dept of Full Disclosure: I am employed by Loevy and Loevy."
  7. billcoe

    Winter Blues

    The days warm sun in early spring brings a happiness not seen for months. The awakening desire to go to that special spot, after so many wet cold days. Knowing that finally it will have no snow or restrictive access. The snow that then comes late is a kick in the balls when so much longing, dreaming and hoping has been rolled around in the mind. The fall of spirit brings back the sadness and deep longing known in winter again, only worse. The rock is coated, yet the skiers rejoice. Feb 22 and Mar. 2010 pics. Of course, it's nice to not have to drive all the way up there to see that the road is closed by snow:-)
  8. They grew up - but he might part with 'em anyway.
  9. My lil brother just finished the Antarctica marathon and is on the Russian Icebreaker heading back now. I thought that was XTREME.
  10. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/andy-thayer/court-allows-torture-suit_b_488374.html This should be interesting to see what occurs if he's convicted. "Federal Judge Wayne R. Andersen issued a historic ruling Friday allowing a suit charging former Defense Secretary with authorizing torture. Rumsfeld asked the court to dismiss the case because he is a high-placed governmental official and argued that he was immune from suit even for allegations of torture. Mr. Rumsfeld also argued that due to his position, the Constitution permitted him to order interrogation techniques that are widely considered by human rights experts to be torture. The Court rejected both of Rumsfeld's arguments and held that high-placed placed cabinet officials can be held personally liable if they authorize the use of torture. While many previous civil suit attempts to prosecute Bush-era cabinet officials for authorizing torture have failed, the suit brought by Chicago-based Loevy and Loevy Attorneys at Law, Donald Vance and Nathan Ertel v. Donald Rumsfeld, United States of America and Unidentified Agents, will now proceed to discovery and a trial. Donald Vance, a Navy veteran, accuses U.S. forces in Iraq of imprisoning him without charges for over three months in 2006, and torturing him during much of that time. Vance, a private security employee at the time of his arrest in Baghdad, named former U.S. Defense Secretary Donald Rumsfeld as a defendant for his role in overseeing the military prison system in Iraq. Rumsfeld allegedly issued orders allowing torture techniques which allowed Vance to be subjected to extreme sleep deprivation, interrogation for hours at a time, held in an extremely cold cell without adequate clothing or blankets, and periodically denied food and water for long periods of time. During virtually Vance's entire three month imprisonment at the notorious Camp Cropper near Baghdad International Airport, he was held in solitary confinement in a continuously lit, windowless cell. "Plaintiffs...allege that in August 2003 Rumsfeld sent Major Geoffrey Miller to Iraq to review the United States prison system," read Andersen's decision. Plaintiffs claim that Rumsfeld informed Major Miller that his mission was to 'gitmo-ize' Camp Cropper.... These allegations, if true, would substantiate plaintiffs' claim that Rumsfeld was aware of the direct impact that his newly approved treatment methods were having on detainees in Iraq.... Based on these allegations, we conclude that plaintiffs have alleged sufficient facts to survive Rumsfeld's motion to dismiss on account of a lack of personal involvement... Accepting at this stage that these treatment methods were in fact used, we conclude that a court might plausibly determine that the conditions of confinement were torturous. An employee of Shield Group Security (SGS) at the time of his arrest, Vance and a co-worker, Nathan Ertel, suspected their employer of paying of local sheiks for influence in obtaining government contracts and of other illegal dealings. To combat the suspected illegal activity, Vance and Ertel became unpaid informants to the FBI in Chicago and U.S. officials in Iraq. When SGS officials threatened Vance's and Ertel's lives, they arranged for U.S. military forces to rescue them. But after a few hours of interrogation and then rest at the U.S. embassy, the U.S. imprisoned Vance and Ertel, beginning their nightmarish imprisonment without habeus corpus. Once they were in U.S. custody, low level bureaucrats invoked the unprecedented powers Rumsfeld had given them to imprison Mr. Vance and Mr. Ertel as "persons of interest" to the United States. Three months of interrogation followed, in which Mr. Vance was physically abused and denied the right to counsel, the right of access to the courts, and any legitimate process to challenge his illegal detention."
  11. billcoe

    The New Poor

    Please show proof of this or admit you're wrong.
  12. Another climber heads to the dark side:-) I think this is the standard if you are buying a new one. Compare a 6.25 # drill that costs $350 against any used one you find. Battery life on the lithium's (Bosch trademark is Litheon same-same)is significantly better than NMHd and Nicads. If you get a used tool and with one of those batteries, the cost will quickly go up as you buy new batteries or get them reconditioned. (fortunately thats more common these days) http://www.cpotools.com/bosch-11536c-1-36v-cordless-litheon-compact-sds-plus-rotary-hammer/bshn11536c-1,default,pd.html?ref=froogle Much better buy than this http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1111139/Bosch_ANNIHILATOR_Drill_For_Sale_-_Almost_New However, check battery prices on anything you find. In fact, your best buy might be an older 24 V Bosch Annihilator for $100 on ebay and buy a new or reconditioned battery. But if you're cleaning cracks, and only want it for a few anchors, nothing is lighter/better than a Petzl hand drill (or a used A5 Hurricane). It's cordless too, light and inexpensive. Great for long hikes to remote climbs where a single bolt or anchor may be needed.
  13. Title page to your link Ivan: "Home care costs pinch seniors Jessica Hill / AP Many people may be pushed into costly nursing homes if states slash programs. " .. Who's going to step up and tell Jim this? ______________________________________________________________ BTW, the lower part of the Cape Horn trail was closed due to those nesting Peregrines down there this year for the first time. So if you're into hiking that one: be apprised of that.
  14. Ditto on the congrats Wayne, sweet stuff. Nice to see an obsession actually not get someone arrested for once... and it looks like the freezing level is actually dropping so it's gonna be there more than 15 min!
  15. :kisss: OK, I apologize for snapping. (And for screwing up JH's thread too.) Good nights sleep and your post looks entirely different to me in the am. another :kisss: , even if it's probably wrong. ..... I'll let your wife know that a chainsaw would be great Christmas gift. You missed your calling, should be working for the road crew.
  16. Dude, you say that you're buying? I can get behind this idea, be aware that pulling out a warm Pasbt tall boy is considered an insult in many cultures. Ivan, you reading this you cheap screw? Real beer shouldn't taste like pee. LOL! The cold wet winter trick I learned from JH: after any cold day anywhere in the gorge, was to curl up right next to the fire with a Guinness at Skamania Lodge. Right next to it there on the hearth. For the non-alcoholics, they have free coffee and hot chocolate too (please don't abuse this). Someday he's gonna wander in there and I'll be sitting there next to the firescreen taking up his favorite spot...
  17. You can buy a couple of old versions of "Castle Rock". One location is from the Oregon Historical society, and the other is Oregon State University archives. Unfortunately, they only go up to 11 x 17.
  18. Here's a historical photo. It is amazing how many more tress are there than use to be.
  19. Wellll, that's a crab louse, and it's OK to say pubic hair, you don't have to keep calling it vagatation Gspot'r. So they are dripping off of ya. Just get some rid buddy and you'll be fine. ps- keep bringing on the climbing, and make sure you bring on the pictures with it too. Except for those like Layton's, no pics is fine there. There is a site called "Rate my poo", where some great pics can be found of that if it's your thing though.
  20. http://www.yourbestweekend.com/how-to-rock-climb-spontaneously/ Hope this information helps some of you.
  21. billcoe

    funny shit

    Oldie but a goodie...
  22. Ujahn came back from Costa Rica couple weeks ago and I haven't seen him since. He's building a surfboard right now in his garage though. Guess they had a great time on the water.
  23. Well, God was there, probably the Christian one, but unsure from the articial anyway.... http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2010/03/05/AR2010030501659_pf.html "The Associated Press Friday, March 5, 2010; 11:07 AM WASHINGTON -- One of the two police officers shot by a gunman outside the Pentagon says he is doing fine and credits God for shielding him."
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