Toast

Ya, this would've made the Imperfect Impasse perfectly passable. How exposed was the Class 3 at the top of Whatcom Peak?

I lost my altimeter, but this one isn't mine. Pardon me for jumping on your thread... If you're reading this and you found one near Big Beaver Creek Trail (approaches to Luna/Fury/Challenger,) PM me. Thanks

Good work. Learning to improvise and apply some of the basic skills taught in these classes is really important when climbing outside. on my harness, I always have two short perlon slings, two double slings, some extra biners and a cordalette. With those and knowledge of a few friction knots and load releasing hitches, you can ascend a rope, transition load or set up a haul system.

You have no concerns that we're evolving into a fascist state? The same complicity led the war crimes committed by the Nazis. That's nothing to yawn about.

Yeah, you should be drinking Milwaukee's Best Ice.

Just a little sprinkle in the morning (not.) I really look forward to sleeping in though

Nice, that was a big day

This photo is from a week ago on July 8th. Note the light colored rock slab peeking out of the snow leading to the start you want (blue arrow.) Friends took the path in red and said it didn't go. Note, this is different from the discrepancy in the Nelson Guide. The correct start is outlined in red in the image below. The book shows the start to the left of that, and that's what's incorrect. If you have the time, it'll be well worth scrambling up Eldo's summit to get a good view of your route beforehand. You'll want to descend below and around that prominent rock arm that drops down to the bottom left of the photo.

Trip: Snowfield Peak - Neve Glacier Date: 7/14/2007 Trip Report: Snowfield Peak is hidden behind its little brothers, Colonial, Pyramid and Pinnacle. It's accessed off Hwy 20 just above Diablo Dam. For an alpine target it offers the best that the North Cascades have to dish out, a challenging approach, navigation, two glaciers, amazing views, showering cascades, alpine lakes, wild flowers in abundance, optional peaks to tag in close proximity, and a fun class 3 summit block to scramble up. It also has it's share of challenges including annoying flies, a very steep unmaintained trail, blowdowns obliterating trail, a slick snow over heather traverse (if you miss the right path.) We hit the trail about 7:00, just in time for blazing sun to roast us on most of the approach, and reached the col above the Neve Glacier about 4:00. My friend Ken felt frisky and soloed up Paul Bunyan's Stump nearby. Feeling less frisky, the rest of us scrambled up peak 7505 for a better peek at the glacier crossing the next day. Sub alpine wild flowers are in full bloom right now with dozens of things I've never seen before. About supper time the wind kicked in and pretty much flattened Ken's tent. Improvising trekking poles for struts it made it through 20+ knot squalls overnight. Pretty good for an ultralight TarpTent. Our alarms went off at 4:00, but rain kept us in bed till 6:00. With dark menacing clouds in every direction we decided to give it a whirl about 7:30 and found ourselves on the summit before 10:00 with a 360 degree view of peaks all around us. High pressure moved in enough to dry things out, provide enough wispy clouds to shield the burning sun we endured the day before and give us a light breeze to stay cool and keep the bugs at bay. All in all, things worked out perfect. We were back down to the cars by 5:30 and in time for dinner at the new brewpub just outside Concrete (good craft brew, kinda hokey kitchen, but nice folks and fresh baked cookies with every meal - give em' your business ) Pix to come. Gear Notes: Ice floss for glacier crossing, no gear needed. Approach Notes: The trail from Pyramid Lake is steep and obvious for the most part. There is a short section of blowdown that obliterates the trail about 4700'. There are several cairns marking the way, most serve no purpose and should be kicked over. I restrained myself from doing so but muttered in annoyance. Just stay on the ridge or just to the north where it gets cliffy. Options for water are limited till the slabs beneath Pyramid Peak (about 5500'.) Crevasses across the Neve are visible and easilly navigable. Scramble up the rock rib extending off the west side of the summit block. Aim for the prominent gully and cross over the arete to the left onto a ramp (cairns mark the way.) At a notch between the gendarme and the summit itself, cross over to the right and find an easy gully up to the summit.

or a gun

Good shit!

Well, gee Oly, I mean Porter, what'dya do?

Isolate the direction of pull on your most bomber piece with a piece in opposition to that primary bomber piece. Backup with redundant pieces and equalize among the components. I think cams actually magnify force, but beyond that, I try to use passive pro in order to save the cams for when I have less freedom to fiddle.

:wave:

That's what I'm talking about

Can't say much about the other two gullies we didn't take, other than either one has to be better than the one we chose. Ya, you'd have to cut through a cornice on the one we came down... probably fall on you and kill ya. Seriously, we rapped in from overhanging rock above. Not the way to go. From our vantage on Luna, looked like all had cornices. The other two will be gentler in slope and hopefully offer better options.

Again, Tazz, thank you for the heads up on the log crossing. It paid off

Thanks for putting these up guys

You did, but with snow filling all three, we figured any would go. In hindsight, that was a mistake. Once we rapped in we found it a lot steeper than we thought initially and were committed at that point. The snow was firming up too, and the side moats didn't give much room for error. We ended up dead manning several anchors and doing several raps to get out. Note to self, think twice before you rap into a gully Next time I'll weigh options more carefully. Any slip could have turned this into a really ugly TR.

Sure, you just skip Challenger and descend into Luna Cirque. Doing so would save a lot of weight in not having to lug a rope, harness and gear. It'd still be wise to bring along minimum gear to rap into Access Creek drainage - 30 meters of skinny rope a few double slings and locking biners. Sure, people do it all the time. If you see my watch lying on the ground, please bring it back.

Dude, where do they find underwear that big?

We got swarmed the other day taking a dip at the creek. Interesting to note that one by one, they stopped bugging us as soon as each of us would apply sun screen. My friend Ken was first to notice relief. Dustin then commented on it... I didn't believe them till I slathered up with goo then, Poof, gone like magic. Wondering if it has something to do with a change in reflectivity of UV.

Lost a Red Suunto Vector altimeter crossing Big Beaver Creek (i.e. the way to/from Luna Peak or Mt Fury) on July 4, 2007. It's pretty beat up, but I'd be grateful for it's return. If found, please contact me via PM or cell, two-OH-six 459-9398 Thanks,

Does she come with them?

My favorite kind of schedule.