Go a little further up North from Sayulita on the public bus, maybe half an hour, to Tepic. Not a lot of tourists there, but it's a travelers town with an honest taste of Mexico and a great market. If you ask around, somebody will point you to the right corner to pick up a lift to Chacala. Chacala is heaven on earth. It really is a sleepy little fishing town on a half moon bay. Sleep on the beach for about two bucks a night, eat fresh fish at one of the palapa restaurants. I haven't been there since '96, but it was truly off the beaten path then, but well worth it.