Toast

CBS, my friend Jim and I climbed Dreamer in the rain yesterday. It was one of those "character building" experiences. We got a late start due to farting around waiting for a fourth who never showed (motherfucker ) Driving up the road, we were pleasantly surprised that there weren't any other cars parked. Maybe they'd read the weather report and smartened up. Whatever the case, we had the area to ourselves. A short hike took us to the creek, and the trail from there was a bit overgrown. Good thing it wasn't wet. About an hour later we were at the base of the climb. I looked down at Jim and Catbird's shoes as they laced up, nice comfy 5.10 spires (sigh.) I had a tight fitting pair of Montrail Smoothies. Don't get me wrong, they're high performance little Ferraris and all, but they're the last thing you want to wear on a long climb. My toe nails were already black and blue from a summer of similar abuse. It was gonna be a long day. Just about then we felt the first drops. It's just sprinkles I said. it'll pass. Sure enough it did... for a little while. About the fourth or fifth pitch, where the real climbing begins, it begins to drizzle steady. The three of us look at each other. We'd all had a lame summer of cancelled climbs. We weren't gonna let a little rain stop us. It's just water after all. Besides, the rap route goes straight down the climb route, we could bail any time. The climbing was surprisingly good. I was amazed at how reasonably grippy wet granite can be. CBS led a fine pitch on the Dreamer Undercling. I followed with a hand jammed into the slimy crack. Some kind of red algae was dripping down my hand as water streamed down my other elbow. All I could think of was, gee, I can't believe my feet are sticking. Let me say this, climbing in a party of three were everybody wants their share of leads on a great route is one thing. Doing so with a wet pair of brand new doubles that twist every which way adds color to one's vocabulary. Tying in and swapping ends adds thinking to the process. None of it adds any speed to the equation. About 5 o'clock the light turns that certain way and you know it's time to turn back. None of us wanted to dig our watches out to see what time it was. We were about a pitch, maybe two away from the top, and we were just stupid enough to pull it off. Sure enough, we top out and begin our descent as the light wanes. I headed down first to clear lines. CBS and Jim simul-rap to save time. It's just about then I realize how much I hate my BD Supernova headlamp. Don't buy one of those fucking things. When the batteries run low, it has this habit of going into blinking mode, shifting from bright to dim light... just enough to tease you with a bright burst of light, then dim so you can't quite see the rap station you're looking for. After much cussing, we make it down. It's nine o'clock, pitch black and raining cats and dogs. The hike out is a slippery dance down wet slabs and bashing through wet brush. Somewhere we got off route and into steep terrain. It was a Klenke moment. Nonetheless, we made it down to the creek. It's incredible how much longer things seem when it's wet and dark outside. I'm just glad nobody was telling any ghost stories on the way down. It was kinda creepy. We get back to the car around midnight. We're soaked to the bone but all the richer. We'd just climbed one of the best rock climbs in the state. Topo here.

Data: dahta or DAY-tah? It's DAY-tah dummy. Picard doesn't call him mister dahta after all.

You're loosing lots of things this summer

Shoot, and I thought I had a replacement for my beat up poles Check yer PM's.

A friend has the 360's and they cut like butter... they're perty too. If it's otherwise the same as the 360 screw, the thread orientation is flopped from that of BD's. Fixing the 360's racking issue is a good thing. I bet these are shweet.

Happy B-day Snuggles

I found a pair, but I don't think they're yours. See this link if you were in Boston Basin this weekend, click here.

I thought these were left behind by a friend and scooped them up as I left the parking lot. If they're yours PM me with a description. By the way, these little fuckers got into my food last night

Nice job guys! All substance and no ads

Climb: Burgandy Spire-North Face Date of Climb: 7/11/2004 Trip Report: Chris_W and I climbed Burgundy Spire this weekend. This was my first time up one of the Wine Spires, but it won't be my last... good quality granite, stupendous views and fun exposure. Drive time was about 3 ½ hours from Everett with a stop for biscuits and gravy at Swede Heaven. The hike up took us about 4 hours. The trail up was in good shape and not hard to find. We got to Burgundy Col in time to climb Vasiliki Tower to catch a view of the route. Nonetheless, we got off route in the morning and climbed the immediate spire that led to a dead end. Notes for those who follow, veer off to the right on the first pitch and shoot for the break between Paisano Pinnacle. We did get off route a few more times due to pilot error, but the route descriptions are pretty straight forward in hindsight. There are two well protected bivy spots at the col and two more that are a little more wind exposed. Whoever was up there last left a brown coil on the sandy ledge half ways up the route (motherfucker ) Gear Notes: Basic alpine rack (we had a set of nuts, a couple of TCU's, and Camalots 0.5 - 3.0). There's no snow right now, so no need for ice axe or crampons. Snow's going fast and there's no water nearby. you might have to hike a bit for hydration. Approach Notes: Trail is in good shape and very apparent.

Are you talking about starting out from end of FS 3075, the road that spurs off to the left before you hit the ski area? If so, it all makes sense. If you're talking about starting out from the ski area (I think most do,) it seems like you'd end up dropping down a lot to cross the drainage and catch the ridge that Dru's talking about. Where did you park the car?

Stove Top Stuffing, a handfull of dried cranberries, a squirt of olive oil and some crushed nuts or sun flower seeds. Add hot water, stir, let sit for five minutes and... Mmmmm good. For a same day lunch, I like to roll up tortillas with whatever you'd put into a sandwich... chopped romain, turkey, cranberries, cream cheese, and a little honey mustard. Try grilling some tofu marinated in BBQ sauce (press out the water first.) Branshwager on a bagel is good stuff too if you like liver (I like liver )

How much of it is rideable? If I remember correctly, the road gets steep after a while... just not sure how far along. Thanx

Like this...

Bring the book with you and you should be able to spot it when you're across from it while still on the trail. From the top of White Slabs you traverse downward to the right and pick up the next crack system.

Hey Klenke, here's to you

Only if I was real hungry and out of food would I...

I'll make a plug for this. I saw most of Jim's slides last night. They're pretty awe inspiring pix of climbs in Patagonia, Pakistan... many first ascents. Jim's no fan of the Dubya Administration but his show's more about what's inspiring about climbing.

Word is there are refillable isobutane stoves in Japan. They're not sold here, however. Maybe MSR should think about it. Seems like most people who enjoy the outdoors and would use a lightweight stove also have an environmental conscience.

Fresh dump of snow above 5000' this weekend

Okay, we'll see if Chris' Westy makes it

That sucks

Anybody have any road condition updates on FS road 4330? The ranger station provided pretty sketch details. They said there's a concrete spillway running more than a foot deep in water and that there's snow on the trail. If anybody's been up that way, a little beta would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance

Is it quicker to take Chinook Pass to Royal Columns or the route over Snoqualmie Pass via Yakima?

I do know there's a nice nice rap route about 50' to climber's LEFT of the West Buttress route. It's a pretty sweet line, totally vertical and has a set of three bolts at each station.