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Toast

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Everything posted by Toast

  1. maybe a long long time ago. Of course, it was almost 20 years ago whe I was taught to tie a harness that way, so maybe, but not any more.
  2. Hey Old Timers, A long time ago, I was taught to tie a seat harness made from knots and 1" webbing. Can somebody refresh my memory? I want to take a buddy out climbing and don't have a spare harness that will fit him. From what I remember, I tied two figure eights on a bite for leg loops. One end was long enough to wrap around me once, the other was long enough to wrap around me twice, thus, the knot would have at least a wrap around the body. I think I would just tie the two ends off with a water knot, but a rewoven figure eight is what I remember. Think it makes a difference?
  3. Katadyn Micropur tabs contain the same active ingredient that the Miox produces (i.e. chlorine dioxide.) They're a lot smaller and lighter and don't require batteries. Cost is about $0.50 per quart, but if you're a backcountry ranger or somebody who spends a lot of time drinking stream water, the Miox is probably cheaper in the long run.
  4. Take 'em to Tieton and you'll learn you like 'em. Hey, that rhymes
  5. I missed the part about climbing in Smith... skip the hexes and go straight to buying me beer
  6. Pick up a set of quickdraws with biners you like and a bunch of 9/16 climb spec webbing cut to 5' lengths. About a dozen of each will do. The dogbone draws more or less come free for the price of the biners, and you can swap them out for single slings when you climb alpine. Add a set of nuts and curved hexes, and you'll have a pretty good dirtbag start. Even if you have the dough for cams, passive pro will come in handy and is a good way to stretch the dollar. If you have the dough, swap out some of the webbing for sewn spectra slings. If you still have some dough left over, you can buy me a drink Specific recommendations in order: - HB Offset nuts - Metolius Curve Hexes - BD Camalots 0.5 - 2.0 - Metolius TCU's - BD Camalot 3.0 & 4.0
  7. Yeah, the route's name is Japanese Gardens and was named by Dave Page who had the FA. I suppose there are enough lazy fucks out there calling it Jap Gardens that the rest of you don't know any better. If you don't think Jap is a racial slur, maybe you ought to ask your in-laws what they were called in the 1940's, whether all of their possessions were sold off at pennies on the dollar, whether they were hauled away into wartime prison camps in the middle of the desert, whether they found "No Japs Welcome" signs painted all over the city of Seattle when they came back after the war. I don't think they'll like hearing the word Jap, but I suspect they'll appreciate your interest in asking what they went through.
  8. I'm sure you didn't mean it that way, but Jap is a not so nice racial slur. I only say this because I'm of Japanese descent, and I feel an obligation to educate folks rather than simply turn a blind eye and see it go on
  9. I was there on Thursday, so it was probably a party there on Friday or Saturday.
  10. Wow, sounded pretty grave. Glad they made it out safe.
  11. I have one extra ticket to the show tonight at the Sunset. first bidder over $25 gets it. PM me NOW if you want it.
  12. ... you smell like a monkey, and look like one too
  13. I don't think mosquitos are out yet, but they can be vicious at Blue Lake trailhead.
  14. Dude, ticks were bad this weekend. Nice TR
  15. Pick up a copy of the Mountaineers Basic or Intermediate Climbs Guides. They list a bunch of easy climbs in the Cascades and Olympics. That said, here's a few off Hwy 20. Cutthroat - S Butress South Early Winters Spire - S Arete Black Peak - NE Ridge Kangaroo Temple - not sure route name Burgandy Spire - East Face (I think)
  16. Toast

    rust remover

    Steel wool and elbow grease
  17. If you traverse way left (climbers right) of Bob's Wall and descend you'll come across a bolted slabby thing. Anybody know what that's called? It's small but fun.
  18. You can ice crag on the Nisqually serracs. You'll pass right by them on your way to camp hazard.
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