Toast

Climb: Colchuck-Colchuck Glacier Date of Climb: 6/4/2005 Trip Report: Dustin, Scott and I were planning on Forbidden this weekend, but colder than desired temps and a deteriorating forecast caused us to readjust plans. It was the second to last weekend before permit season kicks in, so we figured we'd take advantage of that. We left the car at 6:15. Heading up was chilly but perfect once we warmed up. The talus field was open and easy to negotiate. The first snow we hit was in the glacier's basin. We soloed up the left chute but tried to steer as far away from Dragontail's walls as much as possible. A grapefruit sized rock came whizzing past my head about 50 mph. Be smart and wear a helmet. On average the slope was 30-40 degrees with firm snow in the morning. We hit the col about 11:30 and took a nice break in the sun. The way up to the summit was 3rd class in some places but mostly we wandered from snow patch to snowpatch hopping a few boulders along the way. We spent a fair amount of time lollygagging, but made it back to the cars about 6:30. On the way down we must have passed 20-30 climbers who were planning to climb the next day. Too bad for them, cuz it rained the whole morning while we were tucked snuggly in bed. We stopped by the Rockfest festivities, but were too late for any grub. Gear Notes: Brought: rope, harness, pickets Used: Crampons and ice axe Approach Notes: Snow free to upper basin just below glacier. Hard packed snow. Wear a helmet.

Nice TR! We got stumped two years ago due to rain at perfect pass. I wish we'd given ourselves a fifth day. Here's to you

Is this the one you're talking about?

Yeah, that makes sense. Thanks fern

maybe a long long time ago. Of course, it was almost 20 years ago whe I was taught to tie a harness that way, so maybe, but not any more.

Hey Old Timers, A long time ago, I was taught to tie a seat harness made from knots and 1" webbing. Can somebody refresh my memory? I want to take a buddy out climbing and don't have a spare harness that will fit him. From what I remember, I tied two figure eights on a bite for leg loops. One end was long enough to wrap around me once, the other was long enough to wrap around me twice, thus, the knot would have at least a wrap around the body. I think I would just tie the two ends off with a water knot, but a rewoven figure eight is what I remember. Think it makes a difference?

Katadyn Micropur tabs contain the same active ingredient that the Miox produces (i.e. chlorine dioxide.) They're a lot smaller and lighter and don't require batteries. Cost is about $0.50 per quart, but if you're a backcountry ranger or somebody who spends a lot of time drinking stream water, the Miox is probably cheaper in the long run.

Take 'em to Tieton and you'll learn you like 'em. Hey, that rhymes

I missed the part about climbing in Smith... skip the hexes and go straight to buying me beer

Pick up a set of quickdraws with biners you like and a bunch of 9/16 climb spec webbing cut to 5' lengths. About a dozen of each will do. The dogbone draws more or less come free for the price of the biners, and you can swap them out for single slings when you climb alpine. Add a set of nuts and curved hexes, and you'll have a pretty good dirtbag start. Even if you have the dough for cams, passive pro will come in handy and is a good way to stretch the dollar. If you have the dough, swap out some of the webbing for sewn spectra slings. If you still have some dough left over, you can buy me a drink Specific recommendations in order: - HB Offset nuts - Metolius Curve Hexes - BD Camalots 0.5 - 2.0 - Metolius TCU's - BD Camalot 3.0 & 4.0

ask wise Yoda

Yeah, the route's name is Japanese Gardens and was named by Dave Page who had the FA. I suppose there are enough lazy fucks out there calling it Jap Gardens that the rest of you don't know any better. If you don't think Jap is a racial slur, maybe you ought to ask your in-laws what they were called in the 1940's, whether all of their possessions were sold off at pennies on the dollar, whether they were hauled away into wartime prison camps in the middle of the desert, whether they found "No Japs Welcome" signs painted all over the city of Seattle when they came back after the war. I don't think they'll like hearing the word Jap, but I suspect they'll appreciate your interest in asking what they went through.

I'm sure you didn't mean it that way, but Jap is a not so nice racial slur. I only say this because I'm of Japanese descent, and I feel an obligation to educate folks rather than simply turn a blind eye and see it go on

I was there on Thursday, so it was probably a party there on Friday or Saturday.

I see you were there

Nice TR

Wow, sounded pretty grave. Glad they made it out safe.

I have one extra ticket to the show tonight at the Sunset. first bidder over $25 gets it. PM me NOW if you want it.

... you smell like a monkey, and look like one too

I don't think mosquitos are out yet, but they can be vicious at Blue Lake trailhead.

Dude, ticks were bad this weekend. Nice TR

Pick up a copy of the Mountaineers Basic or Intermediate Climbs Guides. They list a bunch of easy climbs in the Cascades and Olympics. That said, here's a few off Hwy 20. Cutthroat - S Butress South Early Winters Spire - S Arete Black Peak - NE Ridge Kangaroo Temple - not sure route name Burgandy Spire - East Face (I think)