Toast

hey, hey, hey... it's not even Tuesday afternoon yet.

ya, what he said

Smokin out in the parking lot. Eyefulls of sunshine in the morning... squint squint, aah, shades. Toproping WI5, burritos, coffee shots at the Petzl hut, bumping into Jim in drag, betting dollars on bad auction goods for a fun cause, watching some of the worlds best atheletes climb right in front of you from a perch on the bridge, rubbing shoulders with some of the world's preeminent dirt bags. Fun fun I say, go forth and have a blast.

Check Prior Snowboards.

Robert Kaplan, The Coming Anarchy... not new but thought provoking.

I dunno Alex. A set of nuts is a staple for any rack, and it's pretty rare for me to climb without setting any. Sara's new, she's building her first rack, I think a set of nuts is a logical next step (if not first step.) As far as what kind, I like the BD or BD knock offs (smileys, huevos...) I also really like the old HB stoppers, but those are hard to find. I'm coming more and more to like my HB off sets. I generally weed out the itsy bitsy ones and the huge heavy ones, but they're cheap and it's nice to have them if you know you're gonna need 'em. However, you'll learn to adjust your rack to the route as Alex points out. Don't forget about slings and biners and how you're going to rack. I'd shop around for what lightweight wiregates you prefer and budget for two dozen. You can buy six pacs of cheap quick draws as a cheap way to build that up, but lightweight wiregates make a huge difference in weight. Just swap out the dog bone for some 9/16 webbing when you go alpine.

when belaying a second, I actually prefer to belay off the anchor with a munter hitch. It leaves me free and out of the system. It's also easy to release and extend slack, something that's a little tricky (or dangerous if you don't know how) with an autoblocking device like a reverso or B-52. Last, you're automatically set up to tie off or lower if you have to.

Oh Hell Yeah! That's Zoe Hart by the way

Yep, I agree, reduce your exposure to getting bittin in the first place, wear long sleeves, pants and socks at dusk. Make peace with DEET spray. Listen to the beat on the street. Otherwise, don't sweat it too much.

Not climbing enough Cough up some contacts. I need to fix this.

Anywhere in Thailand where there is a real threat of exposure to malaria you will hear warnings from the locals and other travelers. If that happens, get what you need from the local pharmacy rather than dragging a drugstore's worth of pills around just in case. Haven't been to Railei in years, but it's sandwitched between Krabi and Ao Nang. If there is a real concern, you can find out from the real time discussion on LP. Your doctor did the right thing. You even know what you need to ask for at the pharmacy if you need it.

Lower back actually. Whatever the case, it's fucking with me. once I get fatigued, I can't stand erect, and I have stabbing bolts intermittantly. It really blows goats I'd hit my chiropractor up for a quick adjustment, but it's Sunday. Anybody familiar with the Psoas and know some exercises/stretches to relax it? As Ween would say, help me.

Cascade badass in the making... I wish I had a cool uncle who took me rock climbing at his age.

Who's got a recommendation on a European car mechanic, prefereably a VW wrench near Redmond or on the Eastside? I'm due for some maintenance but want to find a decent mechanic so I can go vroom vroom again

Though, I missed the turnoff at the bottom of the trail where it flattens out and ended up brush bashing my way down a dry creekbed that butted up to the condos across the street from Alpy. I felt kinda stupid till I saw another party came walking up the road and found that they'd done the same thing. As soon as you hit the flats, look for a trail off to your right. If you end up in a dry creekbed of white rock with brush that gets thicker and thicker, back up before you get sucked in too far. It's not so bad if you do, though. Just a pain when you know there's an easier way

Just descend the walk off. It's safer, and there's no need to hitch hike. You end up at the Alpental parking lot.

sad

Nice pix!

Actually lost somewhere between Itswoot Ridge and the hill that leads up to Bachelor Creek. Noticed I was missing it at the top as I looked down at Itswoot Lake More concerned about the SD card and the pics inside.

Montrail produces the equivalent of size 15 in Euro sizing in some of their shoes. Not all stores will carry the full size run, but they make 'em. Like Fenderfour says, street shoe size doesn't equal rock shoe size.

Good stuff Pax. To compliment what you said, we teach a five point check of the rappel system before unclipping and casting off. While this is all pretty intuitive for most of us, it's a good approach for a new climber. Anchor: Verify it's bomber, that any webbing, rap rings or anything that's part of the anchor is in good condition. Rope: Fed through the anchor correctly, that ends either touch ground, or are even with knots in the end if free hanging. Belay Device: Fed through correctly with biner securing the bight and a quick weight test. Biner: Locked Harness: Double backed and adjusted properly. This was all triggered by me seeing a woman fall 100' off a cliff in Ouray two years ago. She had everything rigged, but her rope wasn't attache to the anchor

Depends on how good a friend and whether they're employed or need the cash. A good friend will cut you a break and forego the opportunity cost of selling it on eBay. If they're unemployed or need the cash, you shouldn't squeeze 'em too hard. Fair market on used new gear with no history is probably 50%. You've had it since the stuff was practically new and know its history. So now, how good a friend are you?

I think we were right on your heels. I lost my camera on the hike out from Itswoot ridge to the hike up to the pass that starts Bachelor Creek if anybody happens to turn it up.

Hey Kurt, just saw the news Hope you're doin' better.

If your wife isn't comfortable on class 3 terrain, I wouldn't take her that way. One slip and it's a doosey of a fall