JoshK

If you can learn to ski I'll be an even truer friend...

Thanks for the reply Lowell. I noticed the same with the inside getting wet. I sacrified a bandana for mopping purposes. I endured the awful process of seam sealing mine, and actually re-did it this past weekend since it was getting worn. I really like the vestibule space, so i'm going to try use the firstlight this upcoming winter and hopefully it works out.

I really hope it's not a bust season since I'm trying to get my girl into AT this year. The weather peoples are predicting a lousy year around here from what I've heard, but I'm hoping they are wrong.

My trusty firstlight has served me well for several season now, but I've still used my Integral Mk1XL for the winter since it has really thick fabric and sheds the snow well. I found a vestibule for my Firstlight on sale and it would be great for ski boots and other winter gear, so I'd like to use the firstlight. Does anybody have experience, good or bad, using one of these Epic tents in the PNW winter? I sat through a really nasty rain/slush storm this Spring and it kept me very dry, but it's more the prospect of heavy wet snow loading or wind that worries me. Any comments? Thanks!

Oh that picture looks awesome...getting me excited for winter.

Terrible news indeed. I headed up solo in to that area last Spring but was stopped in the valley with bad weather. That brings home your comment about that could have been any of us. It's so true. I didn't know TJ, but as Lowell said, he sounds like a guy that I would have liked to know. R.I.P. TJ and sincere condolences to all his family and friends in this difficult time.

Cooool!! Watching that bridge crossing at 2:20 actually made me tense up a little. Baker certainly does have some impressively large crevasses.

Great shroom pics!

cool!!

What kind of rock/mud/clay/etc are those towers anyway? Looks rather soft and scary, and almost as if you could sink an ice tool in to it.

Sooo...in order to seem badass, they made up a new grade by comparing their route to another route that is widely accepted to have been overrated? Losers.

That is a nice little route which recieves little attention. A friend and I hit that in an extra half day we had while going up for Dorado Needle. Nice climb and pics!

So fight the changes occuring to the glacier as a result of climate warming by spending money, time and energy to try to "protect" tiny areas so they can continue to be used for energy intensive activities on their slopes? This sounds about as backwards as a Bush administration forest management plan.

Wow, those look like a lot of fun! Nice job!

I think he's more joking about the fact that it's a small little mountain, and he provided split times for it. I don't think it's mean to poke just a little fun at the split times crew anyway. I think most of us do at least a few things that others might consider silly and shouldn't get offended if somebody jokes about them. I hardly think it's an attack on the person themself. How many people have given Klenke and crew shit about the various top 100 lists and such? I seem to recall plenty of people doing that, and I doubt Klenke took that very personally, but who knows. It's all good!

Wierd things.... like what?! Now you gotta remember, I'm one of the craziest guys I know. Nowatleast I accept that I'm crazy, and I'll probably always be crazy! Gahahahhahahahhahaha! Perhaps yout jealous that you didn't get to have several crazy adventures.... man I love being me! Although sometimes it's well fun. The crazier it gets, the funner it gets! If I slow it down... now how would I do Denali in a few years. I guess I could always settle for Aconcagua, and then in my mid 20's go for Denali... but that's way too long, a life time away! As for Rainier, I suppose I'll wait for next year.... uggggg It may feel like "a lifetime" from now, but it's going to be even harder to do Denali when you are dead before from being proud of being "crazy" and getting in over your head. Granted, it'll probably turn out fine, but just give yourself a reality check. You're young, and you'll have time, lots of it! Just chill out, listen to some of the advice, and enjoy the journey of learning and working your way up rather than having tunnel vision and only seeing the end goal. You obviously have the drive, energy and desire, its up to you if you let that get you in trouble or truly succeed. Until then, get outside as much as you can even if it is just to go scope out approaches or new areas. You'll develop better outdoor skils and get excercise while being somewhere you enjoy.

I would also recommend the full N ridge (no snow cutoff) of Forbidden, though it is likely a bit easier than the NW routes. The E ridge direct is very short route that offers some nice moderate pitches, 5.8 or 5.9 iirc.

Your TR was a really great read, thank you for posting! I'm a terrible rock climber (5.12 is so above my head I can hardly comprehend it! ) but the "full circle" theme and the work you put in to press yourself and your limits is really cool.

Really really sweet guys, that looks like an incredible trip and a top notch climb. Extra bonus points for pulling off all that scheduling with the logistics and approach. It sounds like a great Cascades mini-expedition!

The attacker sort of reminds me of the kid from Superbad...

This thread is already rocketing towards infamous epic thread status.

a. It depends on which of these routes. Some of them cross snow/ice and others you may well not. As for overnight freezing, it totally depends on elevation, aspect and temperature. You may well wake up to morning mushy snow, or find yourself cursing at the bulletproof hard frozen snow. Lightweight aluminum crampons and a light axe are a popular choice. Many people wear crampons over approach shoes. Of course you won't have the same control, but it's often a viable option. All of the climbs you mentioned are reasonable in a day, with the exception of Bear Mountain. I can all but guarantee trying that in a day will result in an epic for many people, let alone w/o experience in the Cascades. It's a remote peak in a rugged area. b. Sure it's possible, but I would hate to recommend trying to avoid the man and have somebody get busted. The good news is Colchuck Lake is a really easy approach, so if you are forced to walk in from the car it shouldn't screw up your plans too much. c. I prefer the northern approach/descent. The Sherpa glacier is generally an easy descent, though it can freeze and require downclimbing in crampons some times. The southern descent down Cascadian is pretty awful. 4000 feet of scree surfing nastiness! d. I haven't climbed Slesse myself but its decent is famously hated. I know lots of people suffer through the long walk back on the road. I don't know the road quality so I couldn't comment on it's "bikability" Hopefully the weather will cooperate and you can have a great time climbing througout the Cascades. Those are some really nice climbs you have picked out.

A lighter is the #1 essential imo, for many reasons. That approach sure is an asskicker. Way to get after it and knock out a big climb too!

A Grizzly Bear? Are you certain? If so, the man would be very interested in hearing about a Grizzly sighting. I highly doubt it was an actual Grizzly though.

One of my favorite and enjoyable "fails". That heat was just oppressive and a day jumping in to deep pools in the Methow River can rank right up there with a great climbing day!