JoshK

That rocks, David, thanks for posting. What did he mean by a double black diamond rock climb? Am I missing out on some new rating or do I just need to brush up on my kid-speak?

Another good reason to climb with a hot climber chica..makes thumbing a ride easier

No, Dru, *your* goal of climbing may be just to climb. Mine is most of the time, too. But that doesn't mean a goal of doing a climb while spending some extra time to take pictures from a high camp isn't just as worthwhile. If somebody enjoys themselves (for whatever reason) climbing with more safety gear and moving slower and heavier, than so be it. I don't see why people want to put rules on climbing. The whole point of it is that it isn't some bullshit officiated sport.

Half Ropes, with a petzl reverso for belaying seconds is a great combo. Otherwise, as you noted, belaying up seconds on half ropes can be a bit annoying. Best thing about the reverso is your shoulder doesn't get all tired from hauling up both ropes.

You guys are, in fact, both correct. The Enchantments permit (fewer available) covers the whole dam shebang, while Stuart Lake covers Stuart. For example, if you were to want to go in and camp *both* near Stuart and Colchuck Lake, you would get an Enchantments permit. All that said, Teanaway River access, through Esmerelda Basin and Ingalls, is the way to go for NR Stuart. One comment I have is that since you are going midweek, you are probably not going to see anyone, backcountry ranger or otherwise, regardless of which way you decide to approach. You will likely have the route and mountain to yourselves...enjoy! Alex I wish I was so lucky. I had 3 other parties on route last summer on a wednesday.

Ha, ha. Next you're going to tell us you wear nylon shorts over polypro and it's ok. No, that'll never be ok.

Amen, PLC. Or better yet, take both days, do two climbs *and* the camp on a high ridge.

I think Matt's point about light-and-fast being only one of many techniques is spot on. I do often feel that too much empahsis is put on doing everything car-to-car these days. In fact, I often take an extra day to do a climb that I know I can do shorter. I *like* spending the night in the outdoors. That being said I dont think going fast/light/solo is always nescessarily dangerous or pushing it too much. The first time I did triple couliors it involved belaying all of the crux pitches, extra gear, and a nice relaxed 2 1/2 day trip. The second time was solo with skisports, in 4 hours with an additoinal traverse of dragontail's south rib, a few extra water ice gullies and a climb of colchuck throw in for good measure. Was this because the second time I decided I needed to risk my neck? No, not at all. I had the experience of the first time, additional fitness and more daylight to play with. By no means do I consider the second climb more "manly" or some such shit than the first climb. Both times I met my goals and had a great time. I think the claims of lightweight speed ascents being the only true style is bullshit. There are many ways to fry an egg; some people like one way, some like another, and others like to mix it up.

Yeah, when Paco and I did it we walked down the road for a while do that turnout and clearing and then headed straight up the south shoulder of cutthroat. It's a very easy approach this way.

Yikes...I don't feel so bad leaving empty handed now. As if that ice cliff isn't imposing enough the cornice at the top of the exit coulior looks mighty threatening too.

We met some people in that area on saturday or sunday that said they had met (sounds like bad gossip, eh) the guys who had attempted stuart glacier coulior. Apparently they bailed due to lots of new unconsolidated snow or some such. This is third hand so beats me if it's the same party or even true at all. We had hope to get ice cliff glacier (originally planned for sutart glacier coulior) today but it rained hard and steady for 3 or 4 hours this morning. I think the decision to call of the climb was justified when the clouds finally parted somewhat and I could see what appeared to be several hundred feet of rock/ice littered below the left side of the ice cliff that appeared new. Not sure what happend, if it was a serac collapse, etc. but I'm glad I wasn't there when it went.

Josh, the scholler pants are *awesome*. They have without a doubt become my most versitile and often used piece of climbing clothing. I have the ferrata pants, which I think add some pockets and a little looser fit. I also have a ferrata jacket which is great for high abrasion routes. I use my ferrata pants for ski touring because they breath very well, offer some insulation and are very water resistent. I find unless it's dumping rain or wet snow it's quite hard to get wet through them. No piece of clothing is going to cover all situations, and both of the pieces you mention would be great for different things, but I would probably pick the schoeller stuff personally because it's pretty hard to find a situation where I *wouldn't* want them along. -josh

Stephen, cool avatar pic.

probably good if you are moving there to wind surf tho.

Shit, that first picture is stunning. Looks awesome.

Right near anderson... I guess I better go get some climbing in the olympics done before the big one reduces the giant choss pile to rubble.

Hey, you totally set yourself up for that... I got busted there so many time in highschool...but magnuson always rocked. And the cops don't a;ways come down there so you can stay later than 11:30. My best memory at magnuson is two girls fist fighting over a guy at a keg partay. She just up and decked the other chick in the face, none o that scratching and pulling hair shit. Yeah, I set myself up pretty good for that one, no denying that My favorite HS party memory was when my buddy greg throguh down a fifth of vodka real quick and went pretty much comatose not to long after. When the cops showed up to bust the party they saw him slumped over in this chair and we tried to convince them that he was really tired cause he had taken a big run that day or some such shit. When the copped tried to stir him, after about 30 seconds the guy just slumped over forward and puked all over the cops shoes and lower pants.

Fuck, you bastards. Shit, no, I meant getting busted by the cops in golden gardens.

I have a pair of karaokurms, which, as I understand, were the predescesor to the eigers. they are red instead of yellow, but are pretty much the same other than that as far as I can tell. You might be tougher than I, but I wouldn't climb in winter with them as I like some insulation. I, do, however, climb in insulated leathers all winter, including alpine, ice, mixed. etc. In fact, I can honestly say I've never even worn a pair of plastics outside of my randonee boots.

Well, Matt, I had exactly what you describe happen to me there in highschool, so I think it would be kind of fun to repeat the experience in adulthood.

If you wanna give her shit for poor judgement in starting up in the first place, fine, but DPS, is right, life is more important than pounding a pin in some sacred crack.

I picked up a copy of the new edition from 'da man himself tonight, and on initial review it get's . A good collection of new routes in the book, including several more advanced routes, which was great to see. Lots and lots of great new pics too! The only problem with it is it's all shiny and new unlike my beat up, ripped up and water marked old one.

Shit, where you get that ticket man?

What angle is the NF of triumph? That's gotta be like 70 degrees and even with our wet snow, it would never have enough snow to ski.