JoshK

I wish I hadn't just picked up a new cold weather bag, that's a sweet deal on the Puma.

You stole mine you naughty scott's man Pfft...we wish.

Yes, getting hit in the head with rocks HURTS. Always good to remembember that.

I often take a .9 liter pot on light alpine trips. But I guess I haven't don't much backcountry living or something.

Tod, we were on route between 6:45 or so and 10:45 if I recall, so that's probably why you didn't see us at all. I'm surprised the steps were filled in a bit. Even though people had done the route the previous day we found no sign of previous steps at all. Lots of spindrift I suppose.

Yeah, we saw that clusterfuck on the lake. I'm pretty sure they were on the lake from what I could tell. It was like a tent city there.

Hahah....my dumb roommate woke up one morning with a giant hangover and feeling like death warmed over. He saw one of these in the fridge and thought it was just a red-bull ripoff or something. So, he figures it's a good cure for his mass dehydration and proceeds to pound the thing. 20 minutes later he is puking everywhere and ends up spending the rest of the day in bed hating life. Only later that evening does he find out he pounded a 20 ouncer of the finest malt liquor known to man. So much for the hair of the dog theory.

Sounds like me last night. My salmon salad for dinner wasn't so kind to me...over and over...and over.

Yes, argonaut looks like a cool climb. It's a nice looking mountain. Folgendes Jahr? Was über folgendes Wochenende?

While, I'm sure everybody is sick of hearing everybody else's exploits in the colchuck lake area (it's that time of year, isn't it? ), here are some pics from last weekend. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=706&papass=&sort=1&thecat=504 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=707&papass=&sort=1&thecat=504 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=709&papass=&sort=1&thecat=504 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=708&papass=&sort=1&thecat=504 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=710&papass=&sort=1&thecat=504 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=711&papass=&sort=1&thecat=504 -josh

I have those cloudveil gloves. best glove I have owned period. so far they've taken all the abuse I've given them. I don't know where the $75 came from, I think they are like $49 retail at FF or any other store. They blow away the BD dry tool glove, IMHO.

tex, I dont consider climbing basically a backpacking trip. If you'd read my previous post you would see this. I do lots of car-to-car and fast and light ascents. My point is people on here should stop giving shit to those who don't want to do that all of time. Soloing is more risking than belayed climbing, plain and simple, end of story. If somebody would rather pitch out a climb, or establish an extra camp for a margin of safety, etc. what the hell is wrong with that? I'm not saying I would all the time, or even some of the time, but people around here are so absolutist on everything. I again point out that the whole point of climbing is it's an endevour where you play by your rules, not some crap somebody else forces upon you.

That rocks, David, thanks for posting. What did he mean by a double black diamond rock climb? Am I missing out on some new rating or do I just need to brush up on my kid-speak?

Another good reason to climb with a hot climber chica..makes thumbing a ride easier

No, Dru, *your* goal of climbing may be just to climb. Mine is most of the time, too. But that doesn't mean a goal of doing a climb while spending some extra time to take pictures from a high camp isn't just as worthwhile. If somebody enjoys themselves (for whatever reason) climbing with more safety gear and moving slower and heavier, than so be it. I don't see why people want to put rules on climbing. The whole point of it is that it isn't some bullshit officiated sport.

Half Ropes, with a petzl reverso for belaying seconds is a great combo. Otherwise, as you noted, belaying up seconds on half ropes can be a bit annoying. Best thing about the reverso is your shoulder doesn't get all tired from hauling up both ropes.

You guys are, in fact, both correct. The Enchantments permit (fewer available) covers the whole dam shebang, while Stuart Lake covers Stuart. For example, if you were to want to go in and camp *both* near Stuart and Colchuck Lake, you would get an Enchantments permit. All that said, Teanaway River access, through Esmerelda Basin and Ingalls, is the way to go for NR Stuart. One comment I have is that since you are going midweek, you are probably not going to see anyone, backcountry ranger or otherwise, regardless of which way you decide to approach. You will likely have the route and mountain to yourselves...enjoy! Alex I wish I was so lucky. I had 3 other parties on route last summer on a wednesday.

Ha, ha. Next you're going to tell us you wear nylon shorts over polypro and it's ok. No, that'll never be ok.

Amen, PLC. Or better yet, take both days, do two climbs *and* the camp on a high ridge.

I think Matt's point about light-and-fast being only one of many techniques is spot on. I do often feel that too much empahsis is put on doing everything car-to-car these days. In fact, I often take an extra day to do a climb that I know I can do shorter. I *like* spending the night in the outdoors. That being said I dont think going fast/light/solo is always nescessarily dangerous or pushing it too much. The first time I did triple couliors it involved belaying all of the crux pitches, extra gear, and a nice relaxed 2 1/2 day trip. The second time was solo with skisports, in 4 hours with an additoinal traverse of dragontail's south rib, a few extra water ice gullies and a climb of colchuck throw in for good measure. Was this because the second time I decided I needed to risk my neck? No, not at all. I had the experience of the first time, additional fitness and more daylight to play with. By no means do I consider the second climb more "manly" or some such shit than the first climb. Both times I met my goals and had a great time. I think the claims of lightweight speed ascents being the only true style is bullshit. There are many ways to fry an egg; some people like one way, some like another, and others like to mix it up.

Yeah, when Paco and I did it we walked down the road for a while do that turnout and clearing and then headed straight up the south shoulder of cutthroat. It's a very easy approach this way.

Yikes...I don't feel so bad leaving empty handed now. As if that ice cliff isn't imposing enough the cornice at the top of the exit coulior looks mighty threatening too.

We met some people in that area on saturday or sunday that said they had met (sounds like bad gossip, eh) the guys who had attempted stuart glacier coulior. Apparently they bailed due to lots of new unconsolidated snow or some such. This is third hand so beats me if it's the same party or even true at all. We had hope to get ice cliff glacier (originally planned for sutart glacier coulior) today but it rained hard and steady for 3 or 4 hours this morning. I think the decision to call of the climb was justified when the clouds finally parted somewhat and I could see what appeared to be several hundred feet of rock/ice littered below the left side of the ice cliff that appeared new. Not sure what happend, if it was a serac collapse, etc. but I'm glad I wasn't there when it went.

Josh, the scholler pants are *awesome*. They have without a doubt become my most versitile and often used piece of climbing clothing. I have the ferrata pants, which I think add some pockets and a little looser fit. I also have a ferrata jacket which is great for high abrasion routes. I use my ferrata pants for ski touring because they breath very well, offer some insulation and are very water resistent. I find unless it's dumping rain or wet snow it's quite hard to get wet through them. No piece of clothing is going to cover all situations, and both of the pieces you mention would be great for different things, but I would probably pick the schoeller stuff personally because it's pretty hard to find a situation where I *wouldn't* want them along. -josh