JoshK

Who the hell is annabelle and why should we care? high altitude sloggers...

Somebody go climb it...hehe This was from day before yesterday. It actually looked like it had a reasonable amount of ice from the ross lake overlook. I wonder what it's actually like...

Holy crap...those look rather intimidating.

Oh yeha, that's right, we were talking about that. Yeah, that thing is a super bore. Their all-in-one weather page is cool but that is about it.

There is nothing that cc.com has that other web boards don't have...they all devolve into spray sooner or later, but there is still plenty of great info here and a good community. I've met, I dunno, 6 or 7 climbing partners here, all of them great people to climb with...I'd hardly consider the site useless.

I did the traverse last year in June with skis. I would say if you are going to do it that early in the year do it with skis. It'll still be mostly snow. I think in August or September would be better on foot since all the flowers should be exposed by then. It's true, coming out through bachelor creek with skis does suck ass, but a few miles of crappy brush is well worth all that skiing.

And I gotta say thanks to Sky for putting up with a gaper steeps skier! This was definitely one of my top 5 moutain adventures ever!

We took the same one they took before, which is also the one we used last week. I think it's the best way over to the boston glacier by far

Stupid bulk upload...ok, only one uploaded ok, so here is that one for now... http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=4620&size=big&password=&sort=1&cat=503

the silverstar "glacier" is hardly a good example of skiing glaciated terrain. You'd have to go out of your way to throw yourself in a slot on that thing.

Climb: Mount Buckner-North Face Up, North Face Coulior Ski Down Date of Climb: 4/29/2004 Trip Report: I figured i would jot this up while I am anxiously waiting for my pictures to download. Sky (skikilo) and I climbed the north face of buckner today and skied the north face coulior. This was the follow-up trip to a failure last thursday where we made it to within 600vf of the summit climbing the coulior and turned around due to high avalanche hazard. We were able to ski the majority of the coulior that trip, but we wanted to come back and nail it right. We left the car right around midnight and approached via cascade pass/salahe arm. I am now of the opinion that this is the best approach for the upper boston basin area when things are snow covered. The skin to cascade pass and up the arm is super easy and it is quite easy to contour around into boston basin. By the time we had reached the 8500 foot notch leading to the Boston glacier the sun had just started to shine. It was probably around 6am. A surprisingly not-that-bad ski down the boston glacier found us at the base of the north face not too much later. You are probably wondering why we chose to go up the NF instead of the NFC, eh? The schrund on the NFC straight up sucks. It runs side to side and we passed it last time on a very sketchy bridge that collapsed when I followed Sky across and had to scramble up the other side with him pulling hard on the rope. Not wanting to deal with that crap, we figured going up the face would be easier. We reached the summit sometime around 10am and realized we would have to wait a while for things to soften up. We took a nap until 12:30 and then started to work our way down the coulior. The top of the coulior (which is actually just the north face), is quite steep. Sky could probably estimate better than I, but it's steeper than the standard north face proper. This continues for probably 500vf and then you begin to neck down into the coulior proper. The coulior gets quite thin (maybe 40ft?) for a hundred feet or so then begins to slowly open up. Starting at the constriction we started to find fairly good snow...chunky powder. The ski down from that point was great, with a little bit of shitty ice here and there to keep things *very* interesting. Beneath the shrund (which can easily be shot across on skis) we found picture perfect powder for the last few hundred feet down to the flat part of the glacier. Too bad we didn't have that on the whole mountain. The skin back up to the 8500 foot notch went quickly and soon we were skiing down the quien sabe and the sahale arm, which was fast and fun with perfect corn. 18 hours and a little bit of driving later we were chowing down at Good Food in marble mountain Gear Notes: Skis, skins,2 whippets, crampons. Needed all this. Approach Notes: Road gated at MP21. Snow starts at MP22.5. Skin up to cascade pass and up arm very easy.

THe more you climb, the more you'll fail...that simple Dont worry about it anyway, the north ridge is better later in the year when it's more ice, less snow

I was under the impression the white river road was unrelated and that it only opened when it melted out. I may well be wrong.

LOL...damn, I forgot all about Mrs Laterneau. I dunno tho, it seemed to me she was more into the sleazy hoodrat type.

I will be ordering the "classic thong" post haste!

Just go over to your cubby hole, get you mat, and take a little nap. The short yellow bus will be along soon enough, Joshy. I'm out of luck...the lightning took out the "special people" lift on the short bus...looks like I'm here all night.

Even if you aren't trying to squeeze more stuff into smaller time, it can sometimes be fun to nail a bunch. That dickhead mark twight always talked about how badass he was on mount hunter going like 43 hours straight. Maybe I should do a 43 hour straight peakbagging extrodinare here! Then I could write a book about my technique but basically use it to describe how I am vastly superior to the rest of you!

HAHAH! Well deserved. I like those smilies. I just want to leave...

Check out the WSDOT traffic page. http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/PugetSoundTraffic/cameras/. Apparently a few minutes of hail and one thunder clap is quite disturbing to most drivers. I'm stuck at school.

prusik isn't that big so that would make 5 in a day, still very cool. swap prusik for mcclellan and little anna and you've got 6 in a day! very painful but doable! I still want to know if it has to be a loop back to the same starting place.

Klenke, another 4-in-a-day, building on your 3-in-a-day list would be eldo-klawtti-austera-primus. If we dont care if it's one way and we simply define day as any 24 hours then we certainly did that when we saw you a few weeks ago. We climbed eldo fairly late the evening before then the other three the next day. granted, you would nail us on not scrambling the true rockpile on austera , but I am simply saying the timing works. While we are at it, forbidden->boston->sahale->buckner could definitely be done in a day. Probably a rather painful day however. In fact, if you count horseshoe as a peak (I dont know if it fits your criteria or not) that would make 5. if You are allowed to use a high camp vs. car to car, camp somewhere in boston basin. climb forbidden's west ridge, then descend the NE ledges to the boston glacier. Traverse the boston to it's 8600 foot col between boston and sahale. climb those two then drop down and traverse to buckner and horseshoe. traverse back to the col, rap down and return to your camp. I'd probably take a rap rope and plan on soloing everything for speed, but I'm sure you could still do it with runninb belays on the exposed parts. From what I have heard boston is a crumbly pile of shit so you may need to take some time on that one.

As far as I know, only one team has ever done all three car-to-car (insert super chestbeating smiley face thingy. ). Doing the 3 plus copper is totally doable. I honestly dont even think it would be stretching it that much. Fernow-SFJ-Maude was quite a bit easier than I was expecting. There have certainly been harder day long peakbagging trips. Also, FWIW, Ice lakes is really cool for those who haven't been there. It is certainly worth the visit. For clarification, are we talking car-to-car or camp-to-camp? We obviously could have done the 3 9000s much easier from a camp in leroy basin.

Yeah, Paul, I totally agree...it's not climbed much at all. I was just saying that register probably wont reflect most winter climbs. One man's "delay" is another man's epic!

The SS (heh...ironic) is pretty uptight about that shit. In this case it's pretty absurd, but if you started spraying that you are gonna X the prez, then they'll certainly look into it. Free speach doesn't cover actual threats against the prez's life. On the other subject, Ashcroft is a flaming pile of shit. The sooner that man is out of power, the better the world will be. he is the biggest single threat to civil liberties any person in power has been for a long while.

I had one of dem dar Nex IIe players before I lost it. It was a pretty decent simple player. My only complaint was the battery life with 2 AAs was about the same as the newer players with 1 AAA.