Paco

Yo moderators, can't we do what JayB said. Just edit/delete the bullshit posts and put this back in the N. Cascades forum. There is some good info here. Mattp - you're not trying to take attention away from the West Face of Sloan are you?

repeat of Eve Dearborne Memorial route anyone?

I want to head that way for the week of New Year's. I could leave as early as Saturdy night the 27th and would want to be back for work on Monday the 5th, but I might be able to stay another day. Anyone wanna carpool, or can anyone offer a ride?

Borgeau left is in and fat. We only did the first pitch. WI4-, then it looked like two short pitches of WI2/3 to the final WI5 curtain. Borgeau right looked in, but looked thinner than borgeau left. I'm sure you are aware of the high avy danger of both routes. Conditions from 11/26.

As much as it sucks to have super-secret projects become much talked about objetives, I'm hoping to see some competition and some ambition among local climbers this winter. It would be really cool if the local climbing scene became active this winter and ticked some real gems. Hopefully the new ice climbing guide will provide some motivation for people to explore the cascades. There are surely some sweet objectives still to be plucked. My big objectives for this winter in the cascades include the West Face of Sloan and the North Face of Triumph. The race is on mutha phukers!

Cool. Nice job fellas!

Pilsner is defintely in and it's fat. They way it was formed up a week ago looks more like it does in the photo of Twight climbing it in the front of JoJo's book instead of the classic piller picture in the middle of JoJo's book. I actually hiked up to the base, strapped on all my stuff, and then climbed up to the base of the piller. F'ing intimidating and I decided that I had no business trying to climb this one yet. The climb as of last week would involve about 10m of WI3 to the base of the pillar, 25m of scary steep climbing at WI6 and then a rest on the left with another 5m of WI5 to finish. The crux 25m was slightly overhanging and pretty featured, but not the type of features that would make things easier. I wish I had taken a picture. The column was about 6ft in dimeter, maybe a little more. Anyone wanna gun me up it? It's only one 40m pitch.

Cool. Sounds like you had a good trip.

From www.gravsports.com GOOD NEWS ON HAFNER AND STANELY from Nancy Hansen: Hi gang, I had a meeting with the backcountry manager of Kootenay, Yoho and Lake Louise on Monday, and he told me that Haffner and the Stanley Headwall areas will be open as of December 1. Marble Canyon will remain closed until the spring.

Second the pitch. You'll learn more that way. (i.e. removing screws, watching someone lead, etc.) Also, no one is saying that you can't top rope, they're just saying that if you do be considerate of others: be gentle on the ice, don't create hazards for others (i.e. top-ropping a second pitch), and share the route (i.e. move your top rope to the side when someone wants to lead the climb) Edit: Damn, you guys are quick with the responses today. This post is about 4 posts behind the times. All my points have already been said.

No climbing for me this weekend; I'll be boozin' it up in Seattle.

Yeah, you should be able to do those three. I would start with Murchison's (it has the longest approach ~1 hour), do weeping wall in the middle for a shorter day with no approach and a two minute drive from Rampart Creek, and then finish with the big guy, Polar Circus. If you tick those three, that would be f'ing cool.

Cascade Falls and Professors are multi-pitch classics in the area. Not sure what condition they are in right now. If it's "in" and you're fellin' ballsy, go hit up the terminator wall.

Yep, that's the line, Dru.

F'ing awesome... Fun times with JayB on Mt. Shuksan! What made you weekend so good? Or should I ask who?

On Saturday November 8th JayB and I climbed a 5 pitch mainly ice line on Mt. Shuksan between the Upper Curtis Glacier and the Sulphide Glacier. The route is approximately 200 meters left of Hells Highway. P1: Climb corners and ramps on rock left of the overhanging ice for 60m to access the ice above. 5.?? P2: Traverse right 5m onto the ice and then climb for 60m. WI3+ P3-P4: Climb ice for two 60m pitches. WI2 P5: Climb glacial ice and neve for 60m to top out on the Sulphide. AI2 I have not found any information about this line from talking to people, or from Fred’s guide, or from Alex and Jason’s new ice guide. Does anyone have any information about the line that JayB and I climbed (i.e. name, rating, previous ascents)? If it doesn’t already have a name, I propose calling it “Satan’s Sidewalk.” Satan’s Sidewalk WI3+ 5.?? 250m Notes: - If the bottom pitch comes in it would probably be an awesome WI4 or 5 pitch. - The views from the climb are absolutely beautiful. The whole time you have Mt. Baker behind you and a very crevassed Upper Curtis Glacier below you. Go get it boys. Whack ‘em tools. You want ice; get this before the snow comes. Someone else climb it and tell me what you would rate the first pitch. I haven’t climbed much rock in crampons so I don’t have a feel for the rating. The first pitch was the crux of the route, though. Pictures are posted in the gallery. Picture 1: The Route Picture 2: Traverse Picture 3: Scary belay Picture 4: JayB climbing ice. Picture 5: Another pic of JayB climbing ice. A Trip Report might follow, as there were some good moments like climbing the last pitches in the dark by headlamp and topping out to a beautiful moon and clear sky.

Okay, I'll tell you. Look Here!

There's a sweet WI3+ ice flow in Renton. I saw some wild drips and this blue ribbon in the trees near an elementary school and that tipped me off to the multi-pitch ice cragin' area beyond the fence. The best climb is the two pitch flow on the right hand side. It's totally obvious and kinda like the money pitches on Cascade Falls near Banff. Someone had already established this and about three other similar climbs in the area. I’ve done it everyday that it’s been cold in the last two weeks, since I live nearby, and I want to be the first to solo it. I can’t believe there’s such good ice on the Westside!

Gotta disagree with you on the "if it goes free then stop nailing it" bullshit. The Huber's among others who are free climbing the hard aid lines are using pitons to protect the routes. Some or all of the gear is pre placed. Read the article by Alex Huber in the recent AAj. He placed pins on his free climb of something in the Dolomites. Also, I think the Hubers used pins while free climbing Zodiac on El Cap. Just because a route goes free doesn't mean people shouldn't nail it. what's your point donkey? punching your clown too much and going blindd on us? free climbing and protecting a free climb are 2 things. first of all i call a complete bullshit your whole statement. they left all hte gear necesary to free climb in place. second look at el ninio, where they didn't place the bolt to protect 13c climbing, hence you'll take a 60 ft whipper on a knifebalde. can you do that. tell me laddy, how many days did you spend on elcap working on a free route? do you even know what does it mean to free a route. have you ever climbed anything remotely resembling 13a, b c or anything in that range? after spending several days on salathe i can tell you this: i would be really pissed if someone went and pouded pins on that route. as of june of last year it was a public knowledge that zodiak is a free route. you must be a complete moron to be oblivious to this fact. i just hope people will stop pouding pins on this one. there is plenty of stone left for nail-ups there. btw, do your reading carefully. they hand placed pins on bella-vista, hence wicked long falls on 14a pitch protected by A4 gear. so think before dissing someone fuckstick throat callus sloafer and clown puncher. The point glasgowdonkeyfacepunchass is that just because one person has free climbed an aid route doesn't mean that from then on it's "off limits" for someone else to pound in a pin on that route, especially if the free ascentionist used pitons to protect parts of the climb.

Gotta disagree with you on the "if it goes free then stop nailing it" bullshit. The Huber's among others who are free climbing the hard aid lines are using pitons to protect the routes. Some or all of the gear is pre placed. Read the article by Alex Huber in the recent AAj. He placed pins on his free climb of something in the Dolomites. Also, I think the Hubers used pins while free climbing Zodiac on El Cap. Just because a route goes free doesn't mean people shouldn't nail it.

Nice job guys!! I'm glad to see some people went out and climbed this weekend. Looks like a sweet route. It's been on my list ever since I saw it early this summer.

So who's going out this weekend and climbing what? The weather and conditions look good for lots of stuff. Send, send, send! I, on the other hand, will be and this weekend. Gotta celebrate a b-day and Halloween. I want to read lots of trip reports come monday (or Tuesday if you epic ) of sick mixed alpine sends all over the Cascades. Climb these routes and more: North Face Couloir Eldorado, stuff as indicated by Lambone on Stuart, other stuff in the surrounding area, North Face route or other stuff on Hood, and whatever other routes catch your attention! Go get 'em! Anyone been to the Upper Curtis Glacier on Shuksan recently? How's the road into the Sulphide Glacier?

Anything more than a handful is a waste.