RuMR

OK...

Sometime next week...I'd like to get down there a few more times before Turkeyday... We experimented w/ leaving at 3:45 and then coming back that day...wasn't too bad, if you're desparate enough...

better yet...anyone interested in hauling midweek one day to smith??? Just checkin'?

You know you’re a trad climber when… all your draws are 12” long • your kid climbs harder than you do • you’ve worn out a set of cams • there is scar tissue on the back of your hands • you shave the back of your hands • you have six partially used rolls of tape in your pack • you quit sport climbing because you can’t do any of the routes • you see lots of sunrises on your climbing trips • you say, “what?” when your leader says, “take!” • your ledge is set up in your room to hold all your climbing gear • you have climbing shoes you can wear all day • you don’t care when your gym membership expires • you enjoy guilt-free eating • you don’t know what your body-fat % is • you ask your partner how much water to bring along • you do a first ascent and report the names of both members in your party • you drop your belay device and you still know how to belay • you read back-issues or mountain gazette • you know how to turn a crack ‘n up into a beak • you know what a beak is • you wake up at 2:00am to go climbing • your drill uses a hammer • you take a nap in the middle of a climb • you spend three hours removing a fixed cam • you don’t want beta • you think a bong is a type of piton • you remember when climbing gear didn’t have springs • you take a forty footer • you summit a desert tower • you know what an abalakov hook is • you still use a gear sling • there is a holster on your harness • you rappel six pitches in the dark • you rappel six pitches in the snow • you drill from a stance • you’re looking down at the birds • you own a hammer and a haul bag • you have sex on a belay ledge • you’re on day 2 of a sport climbing trip and you can’t remember what you did on day 1 • you drop your water bottle and it takes five seconds to hit • your rack is worth more than your car • your best memories are from the epics you’ve had • you have a great day of climbing then find out you didn’t do the route you thought you did • you spend a night hanging in slings • you miss work on monday because you epic’d on sunday • a whole block of chalk fits in your chalk bag • you dump your S.O. because he just doesn’t get it • you wear out a set of jugs • you drive all night so you can climb all day • you drive all night because you climbed all day • you’re up so high the trees look like broccoli • your rack of pins is heavier than your rack of draws • your slings have knots in them • you know who larry penberthy is • you know the difference between a copperhead and a circlehead • you think “beta” is a video tape format • you can shit and and belay at the same time • you wear socks in your climbing shoes • a long approach doesn’t deter you from a good climb • a good job doesn’t deter you from a good climb • Hendrix runs through your head while you’re climbing • you coil your rope • you’ve set up a belay with the only piece of gear left on your rack • your climbing pants don’t stretch

Uhhh...i hate to disagree w/ you...you'd better be able to tell...or go back to school...

???? You can't tell if something is shit or good?? ???

Catbird... Think about what you just said...bomber pieces...definition of bomber-->won't rip out under most circumstances, typically multidirectional...Rock failure is definitely not part of "most circumstances"...ie, building an anchor in a flake that will subsequently pop off... Improperly equalized anchors won't necessarily blow a "bomber" piece...also, i equalize, then knot the anchor...no selfequalizing for me! with the knot you minimize any shock loading...not that this would matter for a "bomber" piece... MATT IS CORRECT...YOU'D BETTER KNOW HOW TO PLACE INDIVIDUAL BOMBER PIECES...after all, that is what an anchor is built out of...

Nope...no can do...can only go for one day... You can lead that thing anyway and lobbing is good for the soul!!! I will be down there saturday...

So...who's going next weekend? Luke? Tex? Anyone? Mr. E??? Muffy? You???

Matt is absolutely 100% right here...thissiz the same principle between simul climbing w/ bombproof pieces between the climbers and NO anchor at all...if the high piece holds, there is no need for an anchor at all...

No...Say...Smith is my *home* so to speak...spent so long living there i think my bones are made of tuff mud! Having said that, Index is pretty schweet...

So...when is the next "clownpuncher" convention?????? I'm heading down this weekend!!! S-T-O-K-E-D!!

Silly...i know i met you!!! You pulled the double finger flick off!!

HEY! Smith beats index any day of any week of any month of the year...got it???

Which clown were you?

Its hard to have a $hitty time there...the place rocks! I climb better there than anywhere else, just cuz i'm soooo stoked to be there!!

those were gross conditions for camping! did you get any pitches in??

Popsicles and frozen mud!

ahh yes... You know the definition of slab climbing? Its two fold as the good DFA knows... 1. You aren't using your ab muscles to hold your feet on 2. Your feet are below your hands... The whole SE is STEEEEEEEEEEP...rifle's a slab compared to that place...

damn...well can't beat that...i'd rather KNOW about the ones that are confirmed also...

Actually you do... My cousins have a convicted molestor living kitty corner to them...they have two kids...but are not concerned about this guy...EVERYONE in the neighborhood is aware of him and they rotate watches to protect the kids... Additionally, they did some "persuasive" tactics when he moved in...got their .308's and .270's out and proceeded to blow away milkjugs in their front yard when the guy was out mowing the lawn...They first informed a fellow neighbor (who so happens to be a cop) what was going to happen...Gotta love small towns in montana...they also held a very "loud" conversation explaining how someone might "just" disappear if certain things transpired... That guy is plain and simple not going to mess w/ anyone in that neighborhood

I don't like what 5.10 did to the new pinks...they softened them all up...thinner liner/midsole and rands... I was hoping the trox would be similar to the old pinks...

Different animal...

try those T-Rox?