RuMR

What? You think its about skiing? oh, my bad

HP > TI ya wank

the paper, while it talked about slippage in belay devices, did not mention one important factor...that being the "give" in a belay (ie belaying from your harness so that your body gives a bit, or an unanchored belayer standing on the ground)...all of those generated impact forces quoted and the math behind them assume a boundary condition that has a fixed, static anchoring system...this can be mitigated in the "real world"...

HA!

what the fuck does this have to do w/ a new rope?? overhanging? friction? just what the hell are you talkin' about? sorry, but sometimes you post the dumbest shit

yeah...only 'new' ropes...sure, right you betcha

you'll get a better night's sleep and wind up getting to the cliff a hella lot fresher the next morning... climbing is what this whole stupid site is about right?

i just picked up bloom's new one at marmot... man, just the pics in there make it worth it...this guidebook almost rivals watt's smith book...

yeah Hannah told me all about her not wearing bras anymore because you kept fumbling..... OMFG!!! gives new meaning to the phrase "opening pandora's box"!!!

wow KNOBe...you are truly a knight in shining armor...an example of chivalry in this age of chauvinism... you prolly beat the chix off w/ a stick since they are coming on so thick???

i don't climb 5.14...more like 5.10+ especially if i've been drinkin' the night before...

i go down to smith to climb not do stupid human trix...i get so few weekends down there i don't want to throw them away....

no...i think he's representing the female version of 8=D ...

so that's what they call them???

you tryin' to impress 'em w/ your manboobs??

first party follower was on a tr cleaning the route...second party wife was leading behind follower of the first party....

what? You get lucky this weekend???

whatever, chelle...go ahead and roll your eyes at me, but he had already expressed an interest in doing the route and they made themselvesbusy eating their picnic and the other party didn't get their stuff into gear...plus, he said she WAS ALREADY AT THE TRAVERSE when his wife started the route...yeah, you are right, maybe with 45 feet of slack there might have been a problem... If someone asks me for a turn and i'm not tying in or getting my stuff ready to go that second, i readily turn the route over...in fact, if i'm working a route, or have already done it before and there is someone going for a flash or a redpoint, i step aside...and i expect the same from others...smith is not the wilderness and has many routes but not that many compared to the gazillion people that climb there...additionally it pisses the livin' hell out of me when a group of 6 or more people work a route w/o letting outside climbing parties circulate through... get real...

nah...he don't do that...he'll get his fat roll pinched in harness belt...needs to shirt to protect from chafin'!!

E X A C T L Y!!!

i've had people coming up under me unclipping bolts and reclipping in on my draws...production line, baby!!!!

ahhh...just tell her to chill out...if that's the reason she got bouted, too bad...she could go find sumpin' in the gorge if she's all uptight about other climbers...

i dunno...if they asked once to keep it down, you probably coulda killed the music altogether...conversation usually won't keep folks up and if its your bros then you'd be entertaining yourself well enough... Some people like to get sleep...guess if its important enough they can pay for that luxury in a hotel or at smith itself...