iain

What else could they say? They can't post a climbing resume for each person that gets in trouble. Someone who has been up say, the south side of Hood twice has considerable experience in the eyes of many news reporters. I don't really think it means much since I have some experience. but I could snag my crampons on my pants tmr and die because I was "experienced" enough to feel comfortable w/o a rope.

Were you guys called into the broken top area the other day to check out some stuff? Some folks were wondering if it was the subject of the search last year in the broken top area. Would be nice to get some closure on that one.

I'm no cowboy, but pack horses are awesome for rescue. You can get up to treeline w/o carrying your pack and you get all kinds of food in there! The horse groups in Oregon, at least, have been extremely helpful at times.

You guys can take your tooth and shove it. I'm off for a summit attempt on Mount Tabor via horsecock buttress direct, basecamp at the tabor pub. Gapers need not apply. If you don't know where it is, you're not qualified to be there. It's dangerous and cold, and there are leashless poodles. What the hell am I doing I'm going to bed now.

quote: Originally posted by bellemontagne: I'm just glad to hear everyone made it back down relatively safe and sound. Hear hear! the route your partner climbs will be different than the route you just climbed. I've found the rock to be good, by OR standards. (read: I've only almost died twice from rockfall :-)) I will make Mount Washington my first foray into true mountaineering. You'll find it a staircase if you are a sport climber. It's not the difficulty of the climbing up there, it's the consequences of a mistake. :-) Just ask the last sport climbers who had an accident up there. and this time toproping was their FIRST TIME CLIMBING - PERIOD. That's not uncommon at all on TFJ. If I had one-two people I'd be willing to take them up there as a first climb. It's just when you get a bigger inefficient group that it really slows down the works. I hope to see you up there. Both are really easy climbs but I don't get tired of them for some reason. Smoot's a snob when it comes to OR climbs. He dismisses both Wash and TFJ as garbage. Don't blame him too much when he's coming from a WA cascades background I guess, but I like them. -Iain

you guys are so organized.

They need to stop whining about this crap and focus on their soccer team.

quote: Originally posted by texplorer: Lance is a Texan. . .. . . . .coincidence? hmmmmmmmm YES Dubya, it is.

quote: Originally posted by joekania: Three climbers are trapped by a storm and whiteout...(clip)...Rescue teams are using helicopters...(clip) how does that work? hope it all works out for the better. thanks for posting the information.

how 'bout the early dude who carted up the mt jefferson register? it's like packing in two cast iron skillets.

Not only sketchy, but it just isn't very pleasant compared to a nice rimed-up winter or spring climb! mt hood is revealed as the chosspile that it is now.

I've no idea, I was just passing on information. I'm actually not sure who is in charge of the thing. I assume it is the Mazamas, who are generously donating proceeds to PMR, so you would need to get in contact with them. I'm all for your brew showing up there if I make it to the show.

I know "trask" from a book about a frontier guy who wanders around the woods of neahkanie mtn on the oregon coast. spends a few days in the rain and stuff.

Those mountains just don't seem conducive to large teams. You get 8 slow people on TFJ for instance, and the mountain is effectively shut down for the day. People have since turned around in the parking lot because they saw too many Mazama stickers. The groups I've run into have been fun, polite people, but at the same time have eaten hours off of peoples' climbs. Anyways, thanks for posting.

i luv mountaineers, each and every one

quote: Originally posted by The Anti-Twight: Why don't you get a better guest speaker, like Julia Childs. Dude, we tried but she's booked solid. This is the best we could do.

Here's the scoop on the Twight show. I know it's a tad cheezy, but come on out and support us PMR folks: Climb Max, Portland Mountain Rescue and the Mazamas invite you to share an evening with . . . Mark Twight "Alpine Climbing and the Czech Direct" Mark Twight is one of American's leading alpinists. He was the first and fastest to solo the "Czech Route" on Peak Communism (10,000 feet up and down in 26 hours). He made the first ascent of "Deprivation" on Alaska's Mount Hunter (72 hours round trip), climbed five extreme difficult new routes in the French Alps, and made a non-stop 60 hour ascent of Mount McKinley's "Czech Direct". This show is sponsored in part by Climb Max and the Mazamas. Please support your local climbing shop! www.climbaxe.com <http://www.climbaxe.com/> This show is a fundraiser for Portland Mountain Rescue www.pmru.org <http://www.pmru,org> When - Monday, August 26, 2002 Where: Madison's Auditorium, 1109 SE Madison (cross street is 12th) Times: 5:00 Beer garden opens 5:30 Doors open to dinner guests 6:00 Dinner served 7:00 Doors open for slide show guests 7:30 Slide show begins (approx. 90 min) Price: Dinner and slide show - $25.00 (price does not include drinks) Slide show advance tickets - $5.00 Slide show tickets at the door - $7.00 Raffle - $2.00 per ticket or 3 for $5.00 Tickets for dinner and slide show available at Climb Max and the Mazamas More info? Call Mazamas (503-227-2345) or Climb Max: (503-797-1991)

If your doing any of the west face routes that exit in the upper gully it is essential that there is no other team on those routes above you on the loose stuff. The route (West Face) was actually quite solid once a ways off the ground last year. The west ridge also had some good rock. It's not all stacked china on Washington, tho the parts that are can be terrifying

quote: Originally posted by OfficeSpace: ...walk military style? Left right left right. More accurately: left right left left..crap I'm sketchin'! trundle trundle left right trundle right sketch sketch sketch left trundle shout shout shout right...

quote: Originally posted by carolyn: ...happy I was able to provide some entertainment mid week! It doesn't take much with this lot. Show a mooning smileyface and people are rolling in the aisles.

Well only sometimes. When it's not the hottie it's an ad for some security camera! Takes a couple of reloads, which is probably what Greg needs to do now.

I do all the time. It's from some chinese guys trying to sell me industrial magnets in bulk.

MtnHigh and I saw you guys almost get clocked way down on the scree. We were halfway up the west ridge at the time. We thought for sure your friend was going to have his head taken off. You are not the first I've seen in that situation. I heard people screaming ROCK ROCK ROCK though and you did not look up. Maybe the acoustics were not good (they were up in the gully I think) I don't know why people have such a problem knocking these monsters down the mountain. I've been pretty cavalier running down that slope and have never trundled anything larger than a baseball. I've learned from descending that slope many times that you are never out of danger until you are well around the corner to the north. Wear your helmet until you are well north of the gulley (though no helmet was stopping the one that almost hit you). There were WAY too many people on that route that day (yet there were only like 3 parties!), and most had never been on a climb before (it seemed). Many were rapping half the route, which made for a lot of confusion and rockfall. We were stuck at the lower rap station for some time as people sketched their way over the lip, and the gully was a veritable shooting gallery. We got the hell out of there before someone got hurt. Sharp contrast to the morning, since we had the west ridge to ourselves. Glad to see you are okay. -Iain

I guess I would ask why telemark if you use T1's and Bandit XXX's? You can probably parallel better than most alpine setups I thought the point was to keep things simple, and the weight down, hence telemark gear.