iain

quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: looking for links and other source recommendations for upping my knowledge ... There was a pretty heavy-duty thread on the topic here awhile back started by Terminal Gravity, I believe. A search under his name may get you there. Selters spends a bit of time on it in his crevasse rescue book.

quote: Originally posted by Alex: Jeff and the Sisters are hills, son. I'll happily take that as the troll it is if it keeps PDX people away. Go tag Reid Headwall for the umpteenth time. Fine by me. Whoops noticed you are from Seattle. In that case the only route you know is Sandy Glacier Headwall out of "Selected Climbs", Same diff. [ 08-01-2002, 11:58 AM: Message edited by: iain ]

That 98% POD reported by the 304th raised a lot of eyebrows in that search. 98% from a helicopter is awfully high, especially for a black-jacketed unresponsive subject. They can get right up next to the hill, but come on, that's pretty damn confident to be reporting that probability. Dunno for sure, I wasn't up in the chopper, I was busy wrestling manzanita up some creek drainage on that one.

Thanks Tim, nice to have some questions answered finally. That's an eyeopener, as that area was searched very heavily by air and ground.

Uhoh it's Dr. Flash from the infamous and defunct crag.com

Funny to have Twight's book right next to freedom of the hills in REI. the guy is a machine, he pulls off rescues high on Denali, and his advice is right on....for climbing the stuff he climbs. He makes that clear in the book but I bet 85% of the readers are just starting out and don't need to break apart a whisperlite and share a pack to get up mt adams south.

exactly. remember, in Oregon, ORS chapter 401 provides authorization for collecting climber rescue-related expenses. Never used since its inception, but it's there. This HC lover keeps AAC insurance close at hand, though chance of prosecution is remote.

LMAO!!! HAHAHA! do a search for horsecock on this site if you dare. My guess is your computer will crash w/ blue smoke and everything.

I'll lay it on the line and say no PNW climber will ever be charged for their rescue. And that's the way it should be in this gaper's opinion.

Hehe just for fun. http://www.summitpost.com/mountains/user_link.pl/user_id/283

quote: Originally posted by Alex: Oregon only has Mt Hood (which is how I started, and I love Hood) which does offer alot for 1 mountain, but its 1 mountain. So that's why Jeff and the sisters are still so pleasantly empty. Hope that PDX-centric attitude persists.

and just from a conceptual point of view, I think the tibloc works by pushing itself into the rope in ascender mode. I don't see that necessarily happening in this "simulclimbing" setup so that would make me worried about its ability to lock when someone falls. are people actually using this setup or was this just a joke?

are you insane? chopper rides are great!

I think the arguement is that the Tiblocs would slide as the rope is pulled through while one would expect the prussik to do its job and catch when one would not want it to. That said it still seems a bit of a risk to rely on a sheath-catching ascender-style device to catch a fall. As far as I know, it was never designed for that function.

quote: Originally posted by texplorer: Besides me? Only 60-something posts until spraymaster status. So, by tomorrow you should be there right? I like how this site rewards idle chit-chat with these titles.

"If Armstrong is a great athlete, so are marathon runners." What an idiot. And what the hell is he talking about "dining on French cuisine" to make it more of a noble feat? How do jackasses like this make it to bigtime publications? PS I like the poll results on the left.

The miscommunication sounds like par for the course when it comes to bad-weather mountain rescue in the cascades. Unfortunately 911 can start the ball rolling on a very heavy duty incident response, particularly when you have an urban call center jockey relaying mountain rescue information. Your phone was probably having trouble figuring out which station to fix on, as it most likely had line-of-sight to many networks. Digital PCS phones have this problem. They see the network at full strength, but refuse it. Physically, the phone has a great signal, but it can't log on the network. Your 911 dispatch call could have easily been many counties away. Glad to see you back. I would guess that's a good bit of experience to have under the belt and thanks for sharing it.

welcome to the f'ing club gumby.

Anyone have any favorite routes in this area? I might have a chance to go in to Great Cairn late August to have a go at Sir Sandford. I'm also looking for some moderate (5.7ish or lower), but quality routes in the Adamants. If there are some anyone can recommend, I'd like to know. I have access to Putnam, old CAJ etc, so you don't need to point me there. Just was hoping for some first-hand info. Thanks, -Iain

quote: Originally posted by Winter: People that get bored of the mountains in Oregon don't love the mountains. That's the truth, well said.

quote: Originally posted by jon: Glad you guys are alright bro! I'm sure the SAR people were relieved when their pagers went off that they were actually going into the mountains and not looking for some runaway alzheimers patient. That's the f'ing truth right there. Way too many of those below-treeline vertical dirt searches for people off medication, etc.

hahahaha! I was wondering how long it would be before someone pulled out the petzl tibloc simulclimb solution! stirs up more controversy and flame than a good ol abortion debate.

Agreed. WA Cascades are the place for alpine rock in the PNW. A good haul from PDX, but doable. The OR cascades have their charm in the winter and spring, but most routes rely heavily on snow conditions as the rock is pretty miserable. Most rock in the OR high cascades is loose by cragging standards, which keeps the difficulty ratings down and the objective hazards up. Good skiing can be found across the range, btw. Portland is a good town. Not too big, not too small. Traffic is starting to bite though.

what the hell? I didn't do anything. Is that for 400 sprayposts or something? looks like I've got good company though. cheers.

You've got a good number of days before food is the issue. water would be the concern.