not nearly as difficult a climb but:
Jeff Park Glacier:
1) partner tries "short-cut" end up rappelling on approach. take way too long. left sleeping bag at car to save weight, temp drops to 20F at night. lose too much energy shivering, no sleep.
2) weather seems...okay, feel good. get up to take leak, but have to push new snow off bivy sack at 2am. run cowering down the mountain in a whiteout.
3) try in late Sept. partner has car trouble, try for a TH to TH non-stop deal to make up for time. Get to saddle, lightning rolls in. run cowering down the russell glacier and bushwack to PCT.
4) finally finish the route, seemed too easy for all the crap I went through before.